Setups

[lynx75]

Originally Posted by Bradders

In case anyone wants it, here's my final setup from the weekend.....

Thank you.

[lynx75]

Anyone could post some B4.1 FT setups for the astroturf please. Or some suggestions.

thank you all

[Richard Lowe]

Originally Posted by lynx75

Hi Richard,
thanks for your setup.

I would like ask you to post, if possible, the setup for the B4.1 on a astroturf.
The indoor track where I'll have races is created on a tennis area and the astroturf is slightly filled with some sands/gravel.

Do you have one to share with us, please?

During the last club racing some people was using the oil density very high, around 40wt/42.5wt. Why so high, please?
When I have a look on your setups the oil density is always around the range 25wt to 35wt.

I look forward to hearing news from you.

Thank you,
Marco.

Hi Marco

I normally run pretty much the same setup on my cars on most tracks, my starting astro setup is just like the Chadderton setup I posted above but with 2 washers under the front inner camberlink ballstud and the rear shocks in the middle on the tower - other than those little tweaks it's the same.

It's only on unusual tracks (like the Petit) I make any major changes - in the case of the Petit track my car was exactly as the setup Paul's just posted

[lynx75]

Hi Richard,

thank you for your useful information.

I'll keep you update on my progression.

regards,
Marco.

[MiCk B.]

Originally Posted by Richard Lowe

The easiest to read is the PDF Arn0 did for the Petit website, direct link...
http://www.petitrc.com/setup/associa...on20101031.pdf

Richard,

Just a quick question on your set-up for the B4.1

Your running no limiters in the shocks front and rear, are you also running the stock 4.1 front shock shafts, the 0.80 length ones?

Does this not give a lot of droop on the front of the car?

MiCk B. :-)

[lynx75]

Originally Posted by MiCk B.

Richard,

Just a quick question on your set-up for the B4.1

Your running no limiters in the shocks front and rear, are you also running the stock 4.1 front shock shafts, the 0.80 length ones?

Does this not give a lot of droop on the front of the car?

MiCk B. :-)

+1 . Usually for the indoor track limiters are used in the shocks.

[MHeadling]

Just a quick gearing question really:

B4, 78t spur, 26t pinion on a 10.5 motor, does this sound ok?

[markwilliamson2001]

Yep, you might want to gear up a bit for outside, thats all.

Cheers
Mark

[MHeadling]

Thanks Mark, glad im about right on the gearing, Im indoors this weekend at Maritime so should be ok as it is.

[Ckapp]

Hi hope some one can help. 1st time racing the B44 this sunday at cov. just like a easy/stable set-up

Many Thanks

[lynx75]

Originally Posted by Richard Lowe

Hi Marco

I normally run pretty much the same setup on my cars on most tracks, my starting astro setup is just like the Chadderton setup I posted above but with 2 washers under the front inner camberlink ballstud and the rear shocks in the middle on the tower - other than those little tweaks it's the same.

It's only on unusual tracks (like the Petit) I make any major changes - in the case of the Petit track my car was exactly as the setup Paul's just posted

Hi Richard,

I hope you are well.

Thanks a lot for you advice for the set-up and the set-up itself. On the AstroTurf track I had a race and I went well. The 2nd place in qualification.
The car and me :-) went very well. I'm very happy.

I didn't use the inline steering but the standard one. The only changed was made to the rear spring, from the silver to the red one (blue is also a good choice). I tried silver in the rear but the car didn't enter well into the corners.

Now I'll have another important race on the same surface (the track will be created wide compared to the previous one).

Now I slightly changed the set-up, I moved from the trailing steering to the inline steering to test if the inline it will be better. I'll keep the same set-up with only this modification.

Why when I changed the rear spring the car entered in the corners betters? Is the inline a good choice? Any other suggestion please?

Thanks,
Marco.

[Richard Lowe]

Hi Marco, sorry for the slight delay replying...

The in-line's are a little more consistent in general and make the car feel much more positive and agile.

I my experience the trailing steering blocks feel very numb turning in, have lots of mid corner steering and medium/high exit steering. The mid corner steering is a very good thing but I find the point they grip to be a bit vague and inconsistent.

The in-line blocks give more positive turn in, are less snatchy mid corner but have low/medium exit steering. In general the car feels more connected to the ground, where the trailing blocks feel a bit 'floaty'.

They are very much a love/hate thing for most people, you will be able to tell after the first couple of minutes running if you are going to get on with them or not. When changing to them don't forget to space the caster blocks to the back and move the ballstud on the steering rack to the back also


Can you expand a bit about corner entry with the silver rear springs, what was it doing you didn't like, are you on a very high grip track?

[lynx75]

Hi Richard,

thank you for your replied, you're helping me/us a lot.

I'll try the in-line steering next weekend for the Italian indoor championship.

The indoor track where I raced and I'll race next weekend is AstroTurf track within which there's sand. The grip is not comparable to the moquette, it is a medium grip track.
When I used the silver rear spring the car was slow and had less turning in, so I didn't have the opportunity to bite the corner entry, also the low corner steering.

When I changed to the red rear spring I felt the car more aggressive to enter and exit corners. I would like to send me set-up and if you would have a look should be better :-)

I'm sending you to your oople's e-mail my set-up right now.

I look to hearing news from you.

Thank you a lot.
Marco.

[colmo]

I'm running a B4 on astroturf - it's a bit unusual in that it's indoors on a hard concrete floor (most unforgiving in crashes!).

I have a fairly standard setup on it - everything is more or less in the middle setting. Silver springs all round, 35wt front, 30wt rear. Outer 2 rows of minispikes removed from the rears, stagger rib yellow fronts. There are sheets of lead under the lipos and on top of the servo.

My two main issues are grip roll (high-speed corners) and on-power understeer (hairpins/low speed corners).

For the grip roll, short of balding my tyres or switching to green minispikes from yellow, I'm thinking of either shortening the rear camberlinks to reduce sidebite mid-corner (where it tends to roll), or else putting a washer or 2 under the rear camberlink ballstud?
Would more weight at the back of the battery dock help?

For the on-power understeer, I know I need more weight up front (no brass bits for me, just chunks of roofing lead), but what else could I do? I went to staggers to reduce grip roll, perhaps go back to minispikes? Richard Lowe commented somewhere that washers under the front camberlink ballstuds would give a little on-power steering, but I presume also take away off-power steering? Would lengthening the front camberlink help?

The car isn't far off, it's just a bit too on edge.

[lynx75]

Hi Richard,

where are you ?

I look forward to hearing news from you....

thank you a lot,
Marco.

[Richard Lowe]

I'm never too far away...

What tyres are you running on Marco? Stagger ribs on the front by the sounds of it...? You're best leaving staggers as a last resort on very high grip tracks, on anything lower grip they just arn't fast on a B4 in my experience.

I've been playing with heavier oils a bit recently, I've found with the same oil/pistons in them the V2 shocks end up feeling softer than V1's. Running the usual 30/35w the car feels too soft and flops around all over on higher grip and it is hard work on fast/slight direction changes like a chicane that's not quite a straight line through. Currently I'm on 45w/2/Blue on the front and 35w/1/Silver at the rear which is working pretty well, although I've not been outdoors with it just yet so I couldn't say if it would be too stiff for proper bumps.

Colmo - Try moving any weight you can to the front of the car, including moving to long wheelbase unless you are already there. Also how much antisquat are you running? Any less than 2 and the B4 pushes loads on-power. Get some limiters in those front shocks too, that'll stop all the weight going to the back when you step on the gas. How much toe in are you running on the back? If you are on the 4.1 kit standard 3.5 degrees drop it back down to 3, this makes a bigger difference than you'd think...

What happens to the car right before it grip rolls on you? Does the back collapse lifting the inside front wheel, or does the front grab and throw it sideways?


One more thing I tried last weekend that the US guys are doing that I really liked was the carbon rear wishbones. The new plastic is quite a bit softer than the old stuff, grab hold of the rear hub and try and twist it forwards and backwards... With the shock mounted as it is right at the front of the arm this flex will be contributing to the suspension quite a bit and not in a good way! I tried the new plastic and carbon back to back and the carbon felt much better. The rear felt much more planted and stable - it also felt to have much more grip yet the car didn't lose any steering

[colmo]

Thanks Richard - I have some homework to do, as some of those things I haven't touched since I got the car 2nd hand. It's a vanilla B4 FT, carbon chassis and all (I've seen you posting how you preferred the carbon chassis over the plastic).

When it rolls in the fast corner after the straight, it's when the grip is coming up a bit (seems to be related to temperature) - coming out of the corner, the inside wheel might dance a little then it flips and spins in a barrell roll. Too much braking is also likely to cause a roll. (Now, I really just lift off, let the drag brake kick in, change direction, then hit the gas again.)

It does sometimes roll going into the straight - if I attack the corner with too much steering lock.

I'll be running the car on a polished wood surface tomorrow (complete opposite), so will investigate during prep.

[lynx75]

Hi Richard,

thank you for your kind support, much appreciate.

You're right. I'm running on Stagger ribs on the front, I never tried any other front tyres on the Astroturf indoor tracks.
This weekend the tyres are under controlled, we could using on the rear the MiniPin Yellow and on the front we could using Stagger ribs yellow or MiniPin yellow.

Right now I'm writing on a paper the changes I'll do this Saturday, to be ready for Sunday:

- Learn the track
- Starting from the set-up I sent you on your e-mail address with Stagger ribs front/MiniPin rear (1 set)
- Starting from the set-up I sent you on your e-mail address with MiniPin front /MiniPin rear (2 set)
- Changing on 45w/2/Blue on the front and 35w/1/Silver at the rear with tyre (1 set)
- Changing on 45w/2/Blue on the front and 35w/1/Silver at the rear with tyre (2 set)

Do I droop the rear degrees back to 3, please? Or I keep it as it is.

Are the carbon rear wishbones already available?

Thank you in advance.
Marco.

P.s. Out of this topic: Will you go to the European off road champion in France this year?

[technokit]

Could anyone post carpet/polished wood setup for T4 team. Please as much details as possible.

[Richard Lowe]

Originally Posted by technokit

Could anyone post carpet/polished wood setup for T4 team. Please as much details as possible.

Cavalieri's Trackside hobbies setup always works well for me...
http://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/ca...kside_2007.pdf

You need a little bit of weight around the rear toe/antisquat block behind the lipo, I use a Trishbits brass block. No other weight needed, whatever you do don't add any to the front (brass bulkhead ect) as it makes it really unbalanced.

Rich