Tamiya Durga DB01 EP Buggy (A cheaper 501X?)

[Carno]

My rear diff screw is stripped out can't tighten or loosen it anymore. Thus my rear diff is slipping.

New diffscrews and ceramic diffbals(from ghostrc) are underway and i've already got new plates and a pulley.

The only thing i'm wondering about is if the diff plates need to be glued on to the outdrive with the 501x outdrives.
If my memory serves me right the 501 manual did not specify to do so.

[mole2k]

No need to glue them as it's metal to metal so just a bit of grease and they'll hold fine

[Migs]

all good

[Carno]

Originally Posted by mole2k

No need to glue them as it's metal to metal so just a bit of grease and they'll hold fine

Thanks!
Curious what'll have caused it when i manage to open it up. Guessing squared diff balls.

[Carno]

Had my first (real) clubrace yesterday. Wasn't feeling to great so wasn't expecting much.
Qualifyings went terrible. Thought it was just me but my car wasn't steering right. At the end of the first run it turned out the servosaver/arm screw was loose and my servohorn popped of the saver bit.

Second qualifying run went a bit better. I could drive straight but there was a problem with the lap counting system and a restart was needed. Did a small circle to get on my starting grid posistion when the right front wheel wouldn't turn anymore.
The little hinge pin in the WO shaft came out and ran into the hub.

The finals I finished 3rd, 4th and 5th out of about 8/9 cars. Most of it cause the db-01 just takes so much abuse but still keeps going.
My fastest lap was a low 24. Fastest lap of the day was a low 21 by a B44 (one of many at our track).
Quite pleased with the car and the results. A new diff build and a lot of practice is all i need now

[muratti]

Sounds good Carno! Now would you say these WO Universal Shafts are worth their money? I am planning on buying them but i am not quite sure if they really do a better job? Is it the plus in steering?

[Carno]

Originally Posted by muratti

Sounds good Carno! Now would you say these WO Universal Shafts are worth their money? I am planning on buying them but i am not quite sure if they really do a better job? Is it the plus in steering?

Hmmm hard to say. I went from regular dogbone to WO's in the front.

My mate has the db-01R with the other universals but i can't really say i've noticed a difference except maybe in how it spins when off the ground.

[muratti]

Ok, thanks, as the price is not much higher i will try them and see if i notice a difference.

[dimblum]

Originally Posted by muratti

Ok, thanks, as the price is not much higher i will try them and see if i notice a difference.

I have used both sets of universals - and am now using the WO set.

The WO Universals were designed to prevent binding at more extreme angles. You could say that they are a little more durable than the 1st generation universals, however I have not have any problems with either set.

The front WO universals do allow for more extreme steering angles, but you are not likely going to need them..

It seems to me that they were designed to eliminate any and all possible drive train problems..

[Carno]

Originally Posted by mole2k

No need to glue them as it's metal to metal so just a bit of grease and they'll hold fine

Received the ceramic diff balls from ghost RC on monday. Rebuilt both my diffs. Tried yesterday but i think the plates are slipping on the outdrives in the rear diff.
Rear wheels would just stand still and the front would spin.
Tried tightening but didn't help.

Used the tamiya diff grease. Gonna open it up tonight and try a different grease and see if that helps.

[simoncrabb]

Are you using the db01 kit plastic outdrives? Diff plates should be glued to those.

Far better are the 501/511 outdrives, or even the 3 racing ones, they are great too.

[Carno]

Originally Posted by simoncrabb

Are you using the db01 kit plastic outdrives? Diff plates should be glued to those.

Far better are the 501/511 outdrives, or even the 3 racing ones, they are great too.

I've got the 501/511 outdrives in the rear. Plastic in front but those are glued.

See now i wasn't very clear. Only the rear is slipping not the front.

[simoncrabb]

That sounds very strange, I don't think the plates can slip against the metal outdrives?

[DCM]

it sounds like you either have the wrong size diff balls or you got to big a spacer in the middle of the diff.

[ramdrive]

I have never had that problem with my 501x diffs.

Try giving the outdrives and plates a very good clean with motor cleaner.

For the plate surface touching the outdrive use a little tamiya hard grease (Super Sticky) and rebuild the diff with Shumacher Silicone Diff lube.

Check balls are 3.0mm...

This is how I rebuild my diffs and they are perfect.

Hope it helps

Originally Posted by Carno

I've got the 501/511 outdrives in the rear. Plastic in front but those are glued.

See now i wasn't very clear. Only the rear is slipping not the front.

[Carno]

Thanks a lot for all the comments!

I've cleaned one outdrive and diff plate used some tamiya AW grease and it seemed hard enough to get it to slip by hand.
Tried the other one but that seemed fine even harder to slip so didn't clean that one.

But when i assembled it and tightened it i noticed the diff action got tighter when i turned the srew side outdrive right and looser when I turned it left.
Removed the thrust bearing and it looks dented. Think i've overtightened it at some point.

So I think that's probably what's causing all the problems cause the screw isn't free to turn with the other outdrive.

Diff balls are 3mm and are running perfect in the front.

[B44&501xRacerEX]

When I first built it in 2008, it looked like this.
It's getting a 511 makeover next week. Still dont know what color I want to paint it. I'm thinking white with blue flames...
Darn wrong thread....jimmy delete this please...aaargg

[dimblum]

I wanted to get everyone's opinion on a shock and/or spring adjustment problem I am having.

First I am running a heavily upgraded Durga - atomic carbon towers, Tamiya aluminum hop-ups all around, Novak electrics, Team Orion Lipo and TRF Aerated shocks; so the weight of the chassis is a little heavier than stock and the lipo helps to offset the difference.

I have had a continuous problem finding the right combination of oil weight, spring tension and piston settings for the tracks I am running on - indoor dirt/clay and outdoor dirt. It seems my front shocks especially are bottoming out pretty easy, even after landing mid size jumps.. I know I need to keep the shocks and springs on the softer side for traction, but I am not sure how to balance out good traction and good shock resistance.

I am running 30W in the rear with Tamiya 'red' springs (soft) and 35W in the front with Tamiya 'yellow' springs (medium). I am still using the standard kit recommended #3 pistons.

Thanks in advance for any help..

[DCM]

smaller pistons up front is the way to go, and keep the same oil.

[carnage]

Originally Posted by dimblum

I wanted to get everyone's opinion on a shock and/or spring adjustment problem I am having.

First I am running a heavily upgraded Durga - atomic carbon towers, Tamiya aluminum hop-ups all around, Novak electrics, Team Orion Lipo and TRF Aerated shocks; so the weight of the chassis is a little heavier than stock and the lipo helps to offset the difference.

I have had a continuous problem finding the right combination of oil weight, spring tension and piston settings for the tracks I am running on - indoor dirt/clay and outdoor dirt. It seems my front shocks especially are bottoming out pretty easy, even after landing mid size jumps.. I know I need to keep the shocks and springs on the softer side for traction, but I am not sure how to balance out good traction and good shock resistance.

I am running 30W in the rear with Tamiya 'red' springs (soft) and 35W in the front with Tamiya 'yellow' springs (medium). I am still using the standard kit recommended #3 pistons.

Thanks in advance for any help..

I race on dirt tracks in OZ
my setup is
Front
Tamiya small hole piston, 42.5 W (losi oil) Asscociated Blue springs.
shock location as per db01r's manual
Rear
standard piston (large holes), 37.5W (losi oil) tamiya Red springs,
shock location as per manual
I don't like twitchy oversteering cars, this setup is perfect for me but might not be for you
However everyone who's seen the stock db01r setup says it's tooo soft
STeve