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  #21  
Old 15-02-2010
samd samd is offline
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Was yours one of the first batch or later Northy?
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  #22  
Old 15-02-2010
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One of the first.

G
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  #23  
Old 15-02-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Northy View Post
I'm not sure what all these major problems are that you are having with the car, mine is box stock apart from:

£1 worth of drive pins
Option springs
Drilled pistons

And I have found it to be a very strong and reliable car.

Perhaps some of you guys need to learn how to build a car for the abuse we give them these days on the track with the power we have. There is more than one way to build to the manual No matter how much you spend on a kit, if it is thrown together it will not be reliable

G
Mine is much the same, plus the weight set. I've had next to nothing go wrong on it since I got it at launch.

Lost a few races early on through cvd pins coming loose, but I've had that on just about every car I've had this style of drive shaft on, but that's cos I didn't put that part together right, not because Gerd designed it badly.

Just because something costs £450, doesn't mean you don't take care in building it, maybe those who have had problems with ball ends, drive shaft pins, bearings etc, should get a RTR car, as this might be a touch much for them

It's a bit like what Clarkson said about buying a used kit car, would you want one made my someone like James May, who will take his time, or do you want it built by a shaved ape like Clarkson?
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  #24  
Old 15-02-2010
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I think suggesting anyone that has a warrenty claim on a Durango part should get a rtr is a stupid comment
I've started racing and building cars over 15 years ago and am perfectly capable of putting a kit together and I had a faulty driveshaft which was replaced by Adam no problems.

I find this to be the stongest car I have owned, just with some teething trouble experianced by quite a few owners, obviously you've been ok but I don't think that's down to you being able to build the car better than the rest of us shaved apes
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  #25  
Old 15-02-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnM View Post

Just because something costs £450, doesn't mean you don't take care in building it, maybe those who have had problems with ball ends, drive shaft pins, bearings etc, should get a RTR car, as this might be a touch much for them
I think this is an unfair statement to make. Can you show us how you build ball ends, drive shaft pins and bearings??

I don't think anyone over here is flaming the car, just stating a simple fact that there are quality issues with certain parts of the car.
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  #26  
Old 15-02-2010
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I would have to say that although the car is a beautiful piece of engineering, the only thing that let the car down was the manual.

I've been racing for over 30 years and have built RC cars from probably all the major manufacturers and to be honest the Durango manual left a lot to be desired, espceially when you are spending over £450 on the kit!

What helped me a huge amount during the build was to use the Durango manual in conjunction with the fantastic step by step build article onn this oOple web site. There were some nice build tips that helped me along.

Also there were issues with parts being in the wrong bags which left me head scratching for a while during a couple of the build sections.

I haven't run the car in anger yet but it certainly looks well built and I have faith that it will perform well too.

As far as manuals go, I think Xray currently offer the very best in terms of build manuals and the supportive documentation about setup has been invaluable. I think the guys at Durango should follow suit and spend a little time on sorting out their documentation and their quality control in the picking/packing department.

Can't wait to launch the car off the start line , though I'm going to have a wait until March at least so I can get a bigger bodyshell as I can't get all my electrics under the tight fitting kit version
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  #27  
Old 15-02-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HyperFX View Post
The cost doesn't prevent it from breaking, or decrease preventative maintenance in any way. I've been racing from the age of 10, and have had $7000 front suspensions (motocross) fall apart, even with extreme pre-race preparation and knowledge of the suspension. Parts break. Some more than others. The owner of a DEX410 must learn it's weak points, same as all the other cars.
If you think it's gonna be better because it's more expensive, you're very inexperienced, and should start with a lesser car, more to your skill level. 4wd might not be for you.
I found most of the 410's ailments in the first 2 times I tested the car. Not from driving alone, but from driving and then INSPECTING for loose screws, bent parts, cracks, scrapes, binding, etc. If you're not prepared to learn your car, and do a little work in the pits, you'll never enjoy a cutting edge 4wd RC.
Learn your car, know what to expect from it, and the rest is pure fun!
Here Here, well said HyperFX
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  #28  
Old 15-02-2010
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hold up chaps lets put this in perspective the picture shows a drive pin has come out now come on this shouldn't happen on any car let alone a £450 car testing or no testing bugs or no bugs its a pretty poor show thats not the sort of part maintance realy covers yes you could pre empted the pin starting to come loose but you cant do nothing about it apart from renew the part.
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  #29  
Old 15-02-2010
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okey that's true, but can you explain to me how i prevent that the pins flying out of the axles, (the ones that are at the outdrives.)
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  #30  
Old 15-02-2010
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thats the point you cant if it hasn't been made very well it will come apart.
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  #31  
Old 15-02-2010
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Or if it's been badly built.....

The basic design is no different to any other CVD style driveshaft

G
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  #32  
Old 15-02-2010
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Heat shrink over the drive shaft.
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  #33  
Old 15-02-2010
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but you dont build the drive pins! the factory does
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  #34  
Old 15-02-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spencer Mulcahy View Post
Heat shrink over the drive shaft.

out drive end not cv joint end
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  #35  
Old 15-02-2010
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I will get my coat and keep my nose out of things I dont know about. All cars have teething troubles when these are sorted it will be one of the best cars out there if not the best.
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  #36  
Old 15-02-2010
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Fair enough, thought people were moaning about the CVD pin. If the component fails prematurely then contact TD - super service.

The tolerances on the hole for that pin must be super critical though if you think about it, a little too big and the pin can work loose, a little too small that the end of the driveshaft could be damaged during assembly....

G
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  #37  
Old 15-02-2010
samd samd is offline
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[IMG][/IMG]

I give up
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  #38  
Old 15-02-2010
samd samd is offline
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....
Quote:
Originally Posted by Northy View Post
Or if it's been badly built.....

The basic design is no different to any other CVD style driveshaft

G
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  #39  
Old 15-02-2010
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?
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  #40  
Old 15-02-2010
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yeah send it back get a new one actualy make it 4 i soppose at least td are replacing them for free or it could be verrrrrrrry expencive.
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