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#61
10-12-2009
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Neil,
WRONG lipos for my weights mate. They're too tall (and not BRCA legal which isn't an issue for Petit RC) and once you put the weight plates under them you won't be able to fit the shell without raising it (even I had to raise it with the 4600). AND you needn't file the tabs with my weights... The taller posts come I'm pretty sure with the wing mounts or the bumpers. 
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#63
10-12-2009
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Quote:
Doh, I have to be honest i never saw the sadlle packs before i did not realise how big they are. Looks like i will have have to raid my tire fitting friends weight box, but i have to say they are quite heavy for a lipo. I have a few more K boys who want top play so looks like being well supported by the reds 
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#64
10-12-2009
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Neil,
The plates add 200g, I doubt the 600 will be twice the weight of the 4600, and we found that this is the minimum needed to get the car working. The 6000 will definately not fit under the top deck as mine are already just squeezing in... Get some more peeps wanting some if I am to get some made might as well be more than 3 sets...
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#65
10-12-2009
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How much for the centre weight only and wot does it weigh ?
__________________
MOST important don't crash. Kyosho DB1 Kyosho Vega RB5 GenII Kyosho RB 6.7 MB MODELS www.rccarshop.co.uk www.ghostrc.co.uk
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#66
10-12-2009
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Quote:
But if people are interested in the centre weight on its own I'll work something out. Or the c/f battery straps...
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#67
10-12-2009
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Quote:
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#69
11-12-2009
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Heck im using vampire 4600's and they are almost identical in height to the 4600 nimh.
__________________
www.kamtec.co.uk www.fibre-lyte.co.uk answer-rc.com/uk/en/ Answer UK team driver Designer of the Lazer ZX/ZXR carbon fibre tub chassis Designer of the Lazer ZXRS
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#70
11-12-2009
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All the BRCA legal cells should be a height similar to Sub C cells diameter however they will sit on top of, rather than "in" the chassis slots on most saddle pack cars. This should mean that all that is required is to lift the battery strap posts by at most the thickness of the chassis however many people are adding the weight under the cells (getting it as low as possible is important to many).
The kit Fabs has designed for the FS is by far the best I've seen for any car as it takes much as much of the weight as he could and transfered it to the centre ridge of the car between the cells, meaning that only the minimum extra weight has to go into the cell 'tray'. The only thing I would have done slightly differently is to have the cell straps made out of a heavier material (such as brass) rather than put it all in the 'tray' and have carbon straps. Here is my logic. The way in which the car rolls, and thus the way the grip changes through the corner via the geometry, will be effected by the centre of mass of the car as a whole. As the LiPos are much lighter than the sub Cs they are replacing and you are putting the mass back under the cells you are effectively lowering the centre of mass of that section of the car. If you were to take the extra mass and devide it equally between above and below the cells you would be raising the centre of mass slightly as the whole assembly is sitting "on" rather than "in" the chassis as the sub C cells would. A little bit of maths would quickly tell you how to devide up the additional mass to give you the same height for the centre of mass. Now, what Fabs has done is move some of the mass between the cells and on top of the chassis plate. This will combine to give the nearly correct effect as the car rolls (can't see how it can easily be bettered in the space available under the shell). So Fabs set is the best currently available but is there a better way ..... yes, run the type of cells the car was designed for ... NiMh, hence why I am doing everything I can to stay with NiMh until such time as there is a chassis set out there designed around the mass of Lipo cells  Guess who is not feeling particularly like concentrating on his job this morning
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#71
11-12-2009
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Neil's issue had me thinking yesterday and here's what I came up with.
http://www.oople.com/forums/showthre...168#post320168 anyone wants a set let me know asap.
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#72
11-12-2009
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looks good mate
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#73
11-12-2009
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Well i built the slipper clutch last night. That was fun
The only way i could do it without the plates falling out of alignment was to put a little grease on the metal plate against the metal cup, this made them stick together and i could assemble easy. Is there any other hard parts i should know?
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#74
11-12-2009
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Final alignment of the centre drive train is a little fiddly due to the length of the front centre shaft but otherwise the car is a joy to build!
Other than that it's just the usual stuff you would do with any 1/10th off-roader, make sure the diffs don't slip, make sure all the shocks rebound the same amount (sure your aware how easy to work with the K' shocks are ... the best out there) and that nothing binds. I've found that the wishbones can seem tight on the hinge pins ... before you start opening holes in wishbones or polishing pins try different hinge pin holder bushes. I think the pin is meant to rotate in them not the wishbone on pin or bushes in hinge pin holders!!! Have a quick search on here for my guide to shimming the diffs on the ZX5, perfect every time! Oh, I forgot to say re-apply thread lock to the joints in the driveshafts ... I've known some come undone, only a couple but still if it happens it will cost you a run and be enough to stop you smiling! If you want I'll gladly give your car the once over on the saturday at the Petit race to make sure she's singing for the sunday (unless it looks like you'll out qualify me in which case you may find bits missing )
Last edited by RogerM; 11-12-2009 at 02:21 PM. Reason: Forgot to mention something ... fool
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#75
11-12-2009
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#76
11-12-2009
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Thanks for the help and offer Roger,
You have to understand i am not a racer like Mike and Simon etc. I just like to play with the cars and i am not competitive. So dont worry for me unless i am in front and you want to get past ;-) I know the diffs well from the touring car. You know working for kyosho UK is tough there are so many products and i would like them all ;-) I have made 2 races this year one in Mini-z and one in Rally cross. there is only one video of me racing from the masters in June this year, my best acheivemnet ever i was 6th in the league class (thats the lowest one) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=44_61cFF8Zk mine is the blue and white car with the yellow and white wheels. you see me at about 5 mins when i am on my roof in the chicane and get hit
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#77
12-12-2009
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Cool, no probs.
I personally have no idea why some people struggle with the diffs in the ZX5 as it's at least as robust as any other shaft drive car I've ever seen, can only guess it's guys who have only ever known belt driven cars! I'm not exactly sure what set-up we're going to end up with at Petit (no carpet experience with the FS) but Nick may be able to offer more of a clue. That said I'd suggest having the following available for the event Springs; #65, #70,#75 front #68,#70,#72,#75,#80 rear ARBs 1.0, 1.2, 1.4 & 1.6mm (all x2) some of those bits will be in the kit, others will be new in packet in your pit box and back in stock on monday if unused ..lol My guess (and that is all it is at the moment, an educated guess based on knowing the car and pictures of previous Petit tracks) would be to start with the car something like.... Front, Longest link, 2mm under outer ball stud, 0mm under inner ball stud, -1.5deg camber 10deg hubs, no spacers between front hinge pin mount and gearbox #75 lime green springs, 3B pistons, 40wt oil, out on wishbone, mid on tower 1.2mm ARB ride height = shafts just under level Rear, Longest link, 2mm under outer ball stud, 0mm under inner ball stud, -1.0deg camber 2 notch anti-squat spacer under front hinge pin holder, none under rear LAW36 E-in LAW37 C-out #75 lime green springs, 3x1.3mm (drilled 3B) pistons, 35wt oil, out on wishbone, mid on tower 1.6mm ARB ride height = shafts level Schumacher minipins all round, outer row cut both front and rear (to limit change of digging in if you have to throw the car ... won't limit normal grip) I'll be running a SP V3.0 6.5R motor geared around 22/78, I'd have been running similar gearing on my old Orion 6.5 Hope that gives you an indea on how to screw it together If you PM me an e-mail address I'll send you my set-ups for the FS but they are too big to host on oople
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#78
13-12-2009
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me and willetts have just confirmed and paid entry for both classes..
 ive had my rb5 for a while.. should be getting the fs next week see you all there! gurdy
__________________
Gurdeep Dhami ******** TEAM DXR ******** KYOSHO EUROPE Kyosho MP9/OS Speed Engines/Kyosho Ultima RB5
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#80
13-12-2009
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Quote:
looking forward to this one. especially 4wd. gurdy
__________________
Gurdeep Dhami ******** TEAM DXR ******** KYOSHO EUROPE Kyosho MP9/OS Speed Engines/Kyosho Ultima RB5
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