2wd Proto - CR2 - Page 21

Reevsey · #**401** 20-10-2009

Quote:

Originally Posted by ashleyb4

Si awsome mods.

Have you got any dimensions for where you have drilled the hole for the idler gear??? From another of the screw holes.

Might have to knock myself up a roll bar. What awg wire are you using???

A

Wire width 1.3mm it is the thinest one from the xxx cr roll bar kit.

As for mounting the idle gear it really depends on what spur you want to run. I have extended the bottom motor mount slot in the motor plate so i could move the idler gear. The slot runs at a 45 degree angle up towards the slipper. You have to countersink the slot and use the losi flat head screws screw otherwise you will not be able to mount the motor. I then drilled a new lower motor mount hole as the motor does need to sit a little further back

I have mounted the Idler gear on the XXX4 topshaft set A3238 just using the Top hat spacer that runs through the xxx4 spur gear. The good thing about using that part is it is threaded at both ends so you mount it on the motor plate at one end then hold the idler on with a screw at the other end so if needed you can quickly change the idler gear without needing to remove the motor

Hope that helps

Si

ashleyb4 · #**402** 20-10-2009

Now im more confused have you got any pictures of its unasembled???

A

Reevsey · #**403** 20-10-2009

i will post some pictures tomorrow night

GRIFF55 · #**404** 20-10-2009

you should make these mods for sale si, i'd buy a bugger

mrspeedy · #**405** 21-10-2009

If an X-6 bodyshell fits OK then so will the Phat Bodies Zen ....

Check out - http://phatbodies.bigcartel.com/

Sorry for hijack ....

nice looking bit of kit BTW

Reevsey · #**406** 21-10-2009

Pictures attached that should help

idler gear with xxx4 belt pully hardware

L shape cut into motor plate so i can mesh the idler with any spur

Idler fittted, hole to the left is the new lower motor mount hole

countersink screw so it sits flush with motor plate so it does not get in the way of the motor

Atomic carbon motor plate brace. A MUST HAVE reduces flex fixing the motor plate to the chassis

My New Rude bits fitted Battery straps & front corner weights (the bottom row of the carbon stack) Getting the weight where it is needed

X6 shell fitted, cut around the gear cover to fit

Front of the shell needs to be trimed to fit

I will be testing at the weekend so will report back on the new bits from Rude Bits but i can only see them improving the car and there is more to come....

Any questions just shout

Si

Supervlieg · #**407** 21-10-2009

Great way to mount that idler Simon! Will do it the same this weekend @ my CR2. Thanks for the great pictures.

I raced a year with the S2, en just got the CR2 one week. Raced it this weekend together with V-Rossi. Damn, I love that car! The first run was in the rain, I thought I wasn't that fast, but took the TQ spot

In the finals I just messed it up trough pulling a wheely at the start, and rolling the car at a place I would never rol...

This car is a really improvement ! Thank you lord ( aka Jonathan

)
Looking forward to the Belgian Nationals @ 2010 !

migsy · #**408** 21-10-2009

[quote=ottoswe;287391]Here is a few things im gonna try before the indoor season starts.

On low grip tracks you need alot of weight i run 150g under the lipo and abit of lead under motor.
0 degree pivot block helped alot to get more rear grip during acceleration.
Camber link 6-B with two washers, short vla,
shocks: 3-inside, 20wt with orange piston and white springs.

i found with my cr2 went well with:

custom drilled piston 1x0.50 hole drilled in each piston. (black from t-tech)
35wt losi shock oil.
flu yellow spring at rear with 3.5 limiter fitted inside.
blue spring at the front with no limiter.
78/20 gearing
40grams up in bulk head, full strip on battery strap.
i do use a 3degree rear pivot block, i find it gives rear-end steer out of a corner..it may have something to do with my driving style to!!!
front camber 2
rear camber 1.5.
standard front pivot block, VLA..LONG.

hope this helps...Alan

ashleyb4 · #**409** 21-10-2009

Si those pictures are a great help but one more question what size are the bearings you use ???

A

tyreman · #**410** 22-10-2009

3/8x3/16

ashleyb4 · #**411** 22-10-2009

Cheers Bri

Just spent a little time and managed to machine myself something siliar using a broke b4 ft stub axle

Seems to sit niely ill get it fitted to the car and give it a go.

A

MatJohnson · #**412** 23-10-2009

Ran my RHD cr2 last night (well, some dodgy cells cut it short). Great car, wasn't expecting such a difference compared to my older XX but its really nice to drive, will get ash to set it up

How glad am I that I didn't throw my Hydra-drive out when the dual slipper first came out back in the day

The MIP driveshafts, they just the normal MIP CVD's?

Reevsey · #**413** 23-10-2009

Quote:

Originally Posted by Toadeh

Ran my RHD cr2 last night (well, some dodgy cells cut it short). Great car, wasn't expecting such a difference compared to my older XX but its really nice to drive, will get ash to set it up

How glad am I that I didn't throw my Hydra-drive out when the dual slipper first came out back in the day

The MIP driveshafts, they just the normal MIP CVD's?

Yes the MIP driveshafts are the normal MIP CVD's

Danny McGee · #**414** 23-10-2009

Quote:

Originally Posted by Toadeh

Ran my RHD cr2 last night (well, some dodgy cells cut it short). Great car, wasn't expecting such a difference compared to my older XX but its really nice to drive, will get ash to set it up

How glad am I that I didn't throw my Hydra-drive out when the dual slipper first came out back in the day

The MIP driveshafts, they just the normal MIP CVD's?

Im currently in the process of triyng to find my OOOLLLLD hydra drive too. I may have to ask folks on here if they want to trade one for something just so i can give it a test