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  #21  
Old 21-10-2009
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Sounds like you need a pucker 'gas safe' chappie (used to be called corgi) most common problem is the thermocouple that sits in the pilot flame, when hot provides a voltage to the gas valve, big lump that controls the gas, if the pilot goes out the gas valve switches off the gas supply in case it comes back on, ain't lit and gasses you, also if the thermocouple fails then the the gas valve won't get a voltage - no gas, all good fitters will have one with them.
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  #22  
Old 21-10-2009
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I would take the front cover off find the input power terminals and check for a supply.

A
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  #23  
Old 21-10-2009
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I can't seem to get the box bit holding the PCB enough to really start probing about with a multi meter

Looks to me like it's past what I can do anyway at 10pm at night when I'm feeling like shit anyway.

Looks like we're in for a cold night

I'll have to get a man out to look at it tomorrow. Does anyone know anyone good around the Malton area?

G
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  #24  
Old 21-10-2009
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Default About heating

there is a three way valve in airing cupboard they stick on when heating hasent been on for a while normally if you pull them manually they some times free off
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  #25  
Old 21-10-2009
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We haven't had the heating on over summer, but had it back on for about the last week or so and it's been working fine.

G
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  #26  
Old 21-10-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AndrewCaunt View Post
there is a three way valve in airing cupboard they stick on when heating hasent been on for a while normally if you pull them manually they some times free off
Id of thought that this would give you a "hot water only" or "Central heating only" symptom rather than a no pilot light

I dont know much about gas but im 99% it wont be that, the three way valve just diverts the duty to either heating the hot water or the rads.

i reckon its most likely an electronics fault personally. Like you said G best to get a qualified guy out and have it serviced at the same time. Watch what he does and do it yourself next time - thats what i do
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  #27  
Old 21-10-2009
Alfonzo Alfonzo is offline
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Get the hot water bottles out. Good luck with it.
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  #28  
Old 21-10-2009
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Default About Boiler

I went round to hulmey tc3 the other day it worked on his they seize up and the water cannot pump around system it confuses the boiler
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  #29  
Old 21-10-2009
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Quick update, I got brave with the multimeter. There is not 240V on the first mains block inside the unit, so I'm gonna take the timer box to bits, any suggestions?

G
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  #30  
Old 21-10-2009
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Before you call out British Gas or a local heating engineer - call Ideal.

They may well do a fixed fee repair themselves.

If they are anything like the Vokera engineer that sorted our boiler, they will have a van full of parts and know the boilers inside out.
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  #31  
Old 21-10-2009
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There may be a wiring diagram in the inside cover of the timer. I dont know how they are wired though - sorry mate. probably a permanent live and neutral for the motor within the timeclock ( if its a mechanical one ), an output for hot water and an output for heating. These are guesses though based on what i know about refrigeration controls. Good luck
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  #32  
Old 21-10-2009
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Default Check fuse

check fuse in fuse spur
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  #33  
Old 21-10-2009
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on the off chance, have you checked the main power connector block on the RHS of the boiler, whether there is voltage there
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  #34  
Old 21-10-2009
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Thats where I checked boss, before the Overheat stat
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  #35  
Old 21-10-2009
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what timer do you have, and does the timer have two cables coming out of it, one for live feed, one switching?
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  #36  
Old 21-10-2009
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Take some covers off and take some pics of connections etc.

A
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  #37  
Old 21-10-2009
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Timer is an ACL Lifestyle LP241.

I can't work out how to get into it

G
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  #38  
Old 21-10-2009
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http://www.heatingcontrolsonline.co....uctions/LP.pdf

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  #39  
Old 21-10-2009
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got that, doesn't say how to take it to bits

G
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  #40  
Old 21-10-2009
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If in doubt, give it a clout
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