Carpet Setup Question

[Bluelock1]

When running on High grip carpet, it looks like the front end is digging in and throwing the rear end round when off power?

I have made the front end harder but it still keeps on

So far setup is

Out side hole on shock towers
Blue Springs
50wt oil
No 2 piston


Should i go harder on the oil?

Any help would be greatful

Cheers

[Lee]

Remove the washers from the inside front camber link this stops the car rolling around.

Mr Lowe told me to do this and what a difference it made!!

[Richard Lowe]

Can you post the rest of your setup cheater?

The car goes best on high grip with lots of roll stiffness at the rear (ie, lots of washers under the rear inner camber link and the inner hole on the hub).

You shouldn't ever have to go stiffer than 40wt Associated oil in the front with No2's in. I'd advise against running the shocks on the outside holes in the towers. I almost always run them on the inner hole unless it's pretty grippy and I might move the front to the middle.

[Bluelock1]

Hi Richard

Thanks for the info.

This is the setup i was running. the track was very grippy.


Cheers

Adam

[Richard Lowe]

Do you have the rest of the setup?

Apart from the rear camber link length thats pretty much how I run the car indoors. Whats your shock setup, what antisquat are you running and how many washers do you have under the camber links?

On the WE I've found the front setup has very little to do with controling bodyroll, stiffening the rear seems to keep the whole car flatter. A good example of this is the setup I ran at the Teeside regional, very grippy carpet in places and I had silver springs on the front yet very little roll due to the rear camber link settings.

A quick thing you can try to see if you need more roll stiffness on the rear is to try the rollbar, remember though this will make the car a bit worse through small fast bumps.

I'll post my Teeside setup in the setups thread soon

[Bluelock1]

Hello

Cheers for all the help so far!

I'm running std antisquat (as in no spacers or washers)

and i have 1 washer under the rear camber link and 3 under the front,
that is pretty much kit setup


Cheers

Add

[Body Paint]

I think what Rich was asking is do you have 2 deg antisquat (R 2 3 stamped on them) or 0 degree anti squat (R 0 3 stamped on them)

[PaulRotheram]

Originally Posted by cheater

and i have 1 washer under the rear camber link and 3 under the front,
that is pretty much kit setup

Put as many washers on the rear camber link as the nut which holds the ballstud on will allow.

I ran 4 last week and it completely transformed the car

[Bluelock1]

O yeah forgot it was stamped on the rear brace!

R-2-3 is stamped on

[Bluelock1]

Originally Posted by PaulRotheram

Put as many washers on the rear camber link as the nut which holds the ballstud on will allow.

I ran 4 last week and it completely transformed the car

In what way does it transform the car?

Cheers

Add

[PaulRotheram]

Made it drivable for 5 minutes..

[Richard Lowe]

It keeps the car flatter and stops it wanting to lift the inside front wheel out of corners. It makes the turn-in much smoother aswell.

[DG5]

i try the Pinish set up, it work well on carpet wit med tration but on capet with hight traction i have the same problem and i use 0° anti squat but only 2 washer under the rear camber link (next time i'll use 3) and the inside hole on the hub !

if you have another thinq i can try or a set up in order to have a car easy to drive !

thanks

[Richard Lowe]

Are you running the car exactly like Peters setup DG5?

Depending on the grip level you might want to try other things such as the tires or ride height. Cutting the outer row off the minipins front and rear makes the car much more forgiving without really making it any slower if the the grip is high enough.
At our Durham regional this year we were running on their new carpet which is the highest grip surface I've ever raced on (I think they run TC's on it so it has additive worked into it). The only way any of us could make any car drivable in that situation was to lower the car right down to ~5mm ride height

I will post my Teeside/Durham setup in the setups section soon, havn't had enough time recently

[DG5]

yes, i use all his set up !

the only difference is :

- i don't use brushless
- my GTX is near the spur gear
- i use extra weigh ( i put it 10g under the front of the rear transmition carter
- i use losi shock fluid

[DG5]

last week end i test the rear camber link shim, i start with 3 shim and i finish with 4 !
the car was easier to drive, i found it give more stability in long fast corner without loosing steering in short corner !