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Old 09-05-2009
boarder_cal boarder_cal is offline
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Exclamation SC10 diffs........

After racing our SC10's for the first time at club last night we all noticed one major major problem. The gear diffs don't last. Even after one heat a clicking noise could be hear and got worse and worse until in the final it was completely shot. This was racing indoors on carpet, whereas on dirt they don't seem to have a problem. (correct me if i'm wrong with this)

It happened to all three cars that raced last night. So firstly I would recomend when building it put a ball diff in straight away.

Apart from the diff all I can say is what a truck!!!! So much fun to drive with loads of body roll. plus they look awesome with the huge body shells and door-to-door racing.

kal
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Old 09-05-2009
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Really interesting is this !

I was actually interested in replacing ball-diff of my B4 by a SC10 gear-diff to get rid of maintenance !

What are they made of ? plastic

I have a 20year old kyosho gear-diff that took extreme torque without any sign of wear after several runs (when the B4 ball-diff needed new rings & balls)
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Old 09-05-2009
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It's all metal, just took mine apart and one of the lunar gears was shot, not a single tooth left
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Old 09-05-2009
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This is a Known Problem guys... It's on AE's Forum.

Here you go, the Official AE Response

http://www.aeforums.co.uk/forum/inde...showtopic=4907

Have a look around there as well, there's some other stuff about the Diff.

I've not run mine properly yet as i was waiting till i'd taken the Pics of it...
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Old 09-05-2009
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Hmm, after building mine ( I haven't run it yet ) it seems really, notchy.

Could be that I'm just not used to building geared diffs after many years of ball diffs. But it doesn't seem too smooth, and I don't remember any of the GD's in the past being this notchy.

I've taken it to bits 3/4 times now, just to make sure everything is together right....and it is.

This is the only bit of the car that concerns me so far.

Any tips?

Anyone have any idea the thickness of the extra shims that AE are providing?
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Old 18-05-2009
mes mes is offline
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Might the problems be solved by adding some extra o-rings to the outdrives? It should put more pressure on the diff from the outside.
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Old 18-05-2009
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All my Kyosho Mid Gear Diff have been free from day 1. Delivered 100s Watts power over more than 1 hundreds of batt packs over the past 20years.

There are still like day 1 when unassembled.

If a gear diff feels notchy, don't run the car like that, it may heat and detroy itself... That's my take on it...
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Old 18-05-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boarder_cal View Post
After racing our SC10's for the first time at club last night we all noticed one major major problem. The gear diffs don't last. Even after one heat a clicking noise could be hear and got worse and worse until in the final it was completely shot. This was racing indoors on carpet, whereas on dirt they don't seem to have a problem. (correct me if i'm wrong with this)

It happened to all three cars that raced last night. So firstly I would recomend when building it put a ball diff in straight away.

Apart from the diff all I can say is what a truck!!!! So much fun to drive with loads of body roll. plus they look awesome with the huge body shells and door-to-door racing.

kal
All SC10 RTRs come with 2 extra shims to install, instructions tell you how to fit them. Install them and problem is solved.

I don't think the 'Kits' come with the extra shims, but I believe CML will give you 2 shims if you ask them (associated USA certainly, are so I would think CML will follow suit)

You need 4 shims inside the diff in total, 2 on each side.
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Old 18-05-2009
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agree with Craig there, plus you need plenty of lube (grease or oil).
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Old 18-05-2009
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Quote:
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agree with Craig there, plus you need plenty of lube (grease or oil).
oooh er missus
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Old 19-05-2009
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Rebuilt my RTR with the supplied extra shims and now its smooth as silk. Its taking all I can throw at it with a 7.5 X12 motor and lipo. Fantastic fun these!
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  #12  
Old 20-05-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Body Paint View Post
All SC10 RTRs come with 2 extra shims to install, instructions tell you how to fit them. Install them and problem is solved.

I don't think the 'Kits' come with the extra shims, but I believe CML will give you 2 shims if you ask them (associated USA certainly, are so I would think CML will follow suit)

You need 4 shims inside the diff in total, 2 on each side.
I was informed by Donn in the AE forums that all kits obviously except from the first ones will include these extra shims, too.
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  #13  
Old 28-05-2009
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my sc10 kit was one of the first from mkracing and i have replace the black grease with 1000 wieght diff oil and i have not had any problems with the shims
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  #14  
Old 02-06-2009
ex-sco77morgan ex-sco77morgan is offline
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Default Ball Diff ?

Anyone thought of putting a T4 ball diff in ??

Also are any of you SC10 runners using MIP CVD's
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Old 02-06-2009
GRIFF55 GRIFF55 is offline
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three of ran (and wrecked) them the sat night at ozwestry. Bloody great fun in std form. 1 rtr and 2 kit versions.
I think pidge and harris will agree

Whens the next sc10 bash going down guys?
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Old 02-06-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Body Paint View Post
All SC10 RTRs come with 2 extra shims to install, instructions tell you how to fit them. Install them and problem is solved.

I don't think the 'Kits' come with the extra shims, but I believe CML will give you 2 shims if you ask them (associated USA certainly, are so I would think CML will follow suit)

You need 4 shims inside the diff in total, 2 on each side.
I got my kit from the 1st batch PBM Racing had in and put in a call to Andy last week, my shims with an official "supplement" sheet detailing the installation arrived today all free of charge - I've never had to put in a warranty claim on a model car before. Looking forward to being able to give it some welly now instead of faffing about up and down the street at quarter throttle. I suppose that our high traction (carpet, grass) tracks are exposing the weakness in these diffs, as the more common loose US tracks allow the tranny to unwind much more freely. Properly meshed they look tough enough to stand anything.
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