Asso SC10

[Body Paint]

[quote=Spoolio;240855]

Originally Posted by Body Paint

TEL: It seems as though people are simply doubling up on the shims , I'm going to build mine with 2 shims either side and we'll see how it goes

the sun gear is keyed to the drive pin on the outdrive yes? I understand that putting a shim onto the end of the outdrive will "lift" the gear a bit and mesh it tighter into the planet gears but surely it'll also reduce the amount the gear sits on the drive pin by a corresponding amount. Isn't that a bad thing? I expect I'm probably wrong as usual so where can I buy these shims? So far I have finished each build step with no shortages but also (this is where you know its not a Tamiya) absolutely no spare nuts, bolts or shims. Remarkable.

We are talking about shims that are a couple of thou' thick, this shouldn't make much difference to how the sun gear sits on the drive pin should it?

[Spoolio]

[quote=Body Paint;240892]

Originally Posted by Spoolio

We are talking about shims that are a couple of thou' thick, this shouldn't make much difference to how the sun gear sits on the drive pin should it?

You're right, I sat and studied the manual last night after I posted that, then I went onto the forums at RC10.com and read the "Modifications" posting there. It's a known issue and I misunderstood the positioning of the shim anyway. Now I really do get it . Told you I was probably wrong!!!

[greggy]

umm, this might sound silly but am a n00b so here goes

if you are having trouble with the std diffs, why dont you change em to the b4 ball diff

[Body Paint]

Originally Posted by greggy

umm, this might sound silly but am a n00b so here goes

if you are having trouble with the std diffs, why dont you change em to the b4 ball diff

You only need to add 2 tiny little shims to make it work just fine, that's a lot cheaper than buying a ball diff. Also I think the SC10 uses metric bearings and the RC10 uses imperial bearings (though I have not checked that out yet)

[TRX450RACER174]

Here is my setup for hardpack light dust.
35wt rear silver spring, stock piston 1 limiter, 2deg Losi XXX hub carrier and hinge pins and long camber link.
30wt front blue spring, stock piston 3 limiter, 30deg B4 castor blocks.
Diff is full of black grease, I have tried 1k silicone fluid and gave it to much posi, others are using 30-40wt shock fluid but i have not tried it.
1/2 oz on front skid plate
1/2 oz on either side of battery in front of chassis
1 1/2 oz in front of the trans
battery moved all the way back to the stops on the starp.
toying with grooving tires right now.

[greggy]

why is yours so low

[HKP]

cos it's pimping?

[TRX450RACER174]

Originally Posted by greggy

why is yours so low

pics were taken before assembly of shocks, It's not that low now.

[BagofSkill]

Lovely paint job TRX450!

[GRIFF55]

one of the nicest sc10's i've seen yet

[sime46]

We just ran a class of SC10's indoor at Mansfield tonight. It was the best fun racing I've had for ages. These trucks are absolutely awesome. Mines an RTR but its got my electrics in now. Watch the rear wheels lads cos with the stock drive pins we had 2 trucks wreck the wheel centres when the pins spin inside the wheel. We put longer pins in and this helped a lot. Some of the americans are putting epoxy in the holes around the pin groove but not sure how good that is? One thing is for sure tho...these trucks are fantastic fun and handle fantastic right out of the box.

[TRX450RACER174]

Yes i put epoxy in my wheel centers also. Another thing is you might add a washer between the nut and wheel as i have heard the the nut is bottoming before the wheel is tight.

[sime46]

Good call mate. I hadn't noticed that.

[TRX450RACER174]

Originally Posted by sime46

Good call mate. I hadn't noticed that.

I hadnt noticed it either until someone had pointed it out as well so i figured i would pass on the info..

[westie]

Look the at the body on this

[Spoolio]

Originally Posted by sime46

We put longer pins in and this helped a lot.

Sime could you let me know where can I get some? I've just got to this build step and don't want to strip a wheel especially seeing as SC10-specific spares are virtually non-existent at the moment.

[sime46]

To be honest spoolio I found some in my box. I think they were the solid front drive pins from nortech racing for the Cat sx. Any needle roller than fits through the hole and is longer than the kit pins is ideal. Just match the length to the maximum you can get into the slot on the wheel. Washers between the wheel and nut and also the epoxy in the area around the slots would ensure reliability. Probably overkill but will keep you running. Other than this the trucks seem bullet proof. Watch the diff for clicking too. May need extra shims. Out of the 3 that ran last night, mine was the only one that did it. Re shimmed it and its perfect now. You'll love it. It is totally different from anything I've driven. Surprisingly it is dialled from box settings and has great steering and grip.

[sime46]

Also, speak to Andy at PBM about spares as I beleive CML have good stock so he'll get you what you need. Or ebay, the yanks have everything. With postage it works out roughly the same cost but obviously not as convenient as PBM. (I'd try Andy first)

[sime46]

Not struck on the shell, but her tits look magic.

[greggy]

Originally Posted by sime46

Not struck on the shell, but her tits look magic.

agreed lol