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#1
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Hi Peeps,
I've been spending the Xmas break building my nice shiney B4 FT. I put a decent package together, but cheaped out on the 27mhz TX (stupid...). Anyway all built went for the grand switch on after ESC setup and the thing went mental, wheel spinning across living room and burning the living room carpet much to my girlfriends joy (!!!). I've since sent the radio gear back to the shop and upgraded to a 2.4ghz setup which I'm installing this weekend This did the trick in terms running the diff in (I think??). It seemed to be ok before this little episode with the opposite wheel turning in a different direction quite easily, but afterwards both rear wheels seemed locked together. I tried loosen the thrust bolt, tighten it, nothing.....What would have caused this? Well putting my few days worth of knowledge together I decided it might be that I just needed to tighten the bolt even more. This then spanned it! I have ordered another 2 t-nuts and thrust bolts. Only problem is I really don't have a clue how tight this thing should be now. I've read the famous "when you feel the spring completely compressed loosen the bolt by 1/8 turn", but to a newbie this doesn't mean a lot. I'm not sure what I'm trying to feel, the wings do go all the way down??? Any advice much appreciated
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#2
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Did you pre compress the diff spring with some pliers?
If so what i do is, Tighten the diff bolt till the plastic wings touch the end of the slot, then every quarter of a turn or so when your tightening it, stop and twist the diff backwards and forwards, do this till the bolt is full tightened, then loosen off the bolt 1/8 of a turn.. this should set it perfic ben
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Schumacher Racing - Reedy - Schelle - TKR - Bandicoot Bodies - MIP - Nextlevelrc - Trishbits - Moss Models |
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#3
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Quote:
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#4
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make sure your putting the tnut, spring & bolt etc in the correct diff halves,(easy mistake for people new to the car) Just tighten the diff bolt till the t nut wings get to the bottom of the two slots in the diff halves and the nut feels tight (not stupidly tight) then loosen it off an 1/8th then test the car and loosen it off or tighten it up in 1/8ths testing the car until the diff slips for about half a foot to a foot under full throttle from stand still on a grippy surface.
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Custom MG-Racing Associated DMS |
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#5
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Try putting small allen keys or screwdrivers in the outdrives and with your third hand turn the diff gear. Tighten the diff until it becomes very hard to turn the gear when the outdrives aren't moving. This should be a good start.
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#6
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Just get approx right, you will need to adjust it after its settled, and a bit of slip will do no harm, you will also get slip from the slipper and its difficult to set when you are new to it, will you be racing somewhere, B4's are so common someone will have tools in there pocket and help you adjust it.
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#7
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Cheers all I'll give that a whirl.
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#8
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WOW
![]() All built following the above advice. Its fooking amazing I'm in love with Lipo and brushless!! I think it maybe the diff / slipper could do with an expert eye, but to me it all runs great and seems plenty fast enough for me to practice with until I go to Oswestry. Even played a little on some ice which was fun. I heard a brief slipper noise when first powering up on the ice or really gunning it on the damp tarmac but I'm guessing that's normal. Seems to run straight and true even under breaking, unless I turn hard during that is which gives me a fancy 180 ;-) Its like driving my Lotus Elise even down to the under steer. Also I gave in before the battery did, which was at about 30min (cold hands)! I'm sure my Core 5000mah Lipo won't last as long at the track. Cheers all again I'm sure I'll have more to ask. |
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#9
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Here she is...
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#10
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Quote:
???? It was getting enough traction on ice to invoke the slipper? Funny ice you got there dude.
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#11
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lol may have just been on the tarmac then.
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#12
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Time to hit the track then mate! Welcome
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