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This has been bothering me for a long while... so I now seek professional help!
![]() I first clean the shell with alcohol (Isopropanol) I then use Spazstix Utimate Mirror Chrome (spray can) Then I back it with Fasblack (waterbased) Finally I use Tamiya Smoke (spray can), which covers the windows and surrounding parts The problem is the the black backing peels off the crome very easily. Furthermote the crome also comes loose somewhat after som use... Please advise! (I've tried the Faskolor "Faschrome" but it's more like std. silver and not chrome)
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#2
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pm ya dude
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#3
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Its the nature of the chrome really. Chrome doesn't 'eat' into the plastic of the shells like other paints do. This is how it gets its chrome finish. So this is why it comes off the shells during use.
I've had probs with the black peeling off but only once or twice. Usually after I've used Tamiya pains over it. |
#4
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Thx a lot guys!
![]() I'll try your suggestions! I tried once with some regular black spray can paint as a sealer once. Then the chrome effect disapeared and it looked like regular silver. So it seems like you need to use water based color as backing. In a way it's tempting to simply go back to using silver ![]() So sanding or using stone wool like we did in the old days would help the chrome to stick better to the shell?
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Life's too short to go slow! www.ymr.no Tech Tips, HopUps & Bling Xray 2014 XB4 4WD & 2WD | B4 FTW Night Fox XL | Mugen MRX-5 | RB | Futaba 3VCS FASST | Faskolor Visit my showroom |
#5
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A wise man told me not to use Chrome for large areas. He advised I use Tamiya Metallic Silver PS48 (rattle can) and this is what I used on my two F1 shells for 08, none of it came off and they looked great. The Tamiya paint has great 'depth' and does not look 'silver'
http://img120.imageshack.us/my.php?i...024x768mk8.jpg Neil |
#6
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Must admit that the Tamiya spray can paint is the best there is as to bite and robustness! And dirt does not stick to it either... As to small areas it does seem logical - it will then be held in place by the surrounding paint & coat.
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Life's too short to go slow! www.ymr.no Tech Tips, HopUps & Bling Xray 2014 XB4 4WD & 2WD | B4 FTW Night Fox XL | Mugen MRX-5 | RB | Futaba 3VCS FASST | Faskolor Visit my showroom |
#7
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I have never used the chrome paints that are available, i was just told not to even try them (Alcad/Spaztixs etc) for my F1 shells due to the expanse of silver.. I was told it would never work.
I am sure that these paints are Ok if you never hit anything... but that just aint my style!.. so the Tamiya does the job for me. I plan on doing two more F1 shells for 09 once Lewis's new car is shown on 16th January.. then I know if the sponsors have changed. Neil |
#8
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chrome looks fab, but as Tel says, it doesn't bite into the shell, more sticks like a film to it. You can try rolling the masking up, with your finger, rather than peeling it off, that will help, but the Chrome will still be fickle.
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#9
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hey guys im a kustom painter in australia i mainly paint hotrods and muscle cars but we have painted heaps of radio controll stuff the way i do it with heaps of success is to scotchbrite the surface first then clean with soapy water rinse than blow dry i use automotive plastic primer first then alsa mirror chrome then 2 pack black with a flexing agentadded usually 20% then let dry for a day
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#10
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What does the primer do? It's not aggressive on the polycarbonate?
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Life's too short to go slow! www.ymr.no Tech Tips, HopUps & Bling Xray 2014 XB4 4WD & 2WD | B4 FTW Night Fox XL | Mugen MRX-5 | RB | Futaba 3VCS FASST | Faskolor Visit my showroom |
#11
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its not aggressive at all the primer is clear so you can use kandy colors or anything at all weve done real fire on rc helicpters check out my website chrishouseofkustom.com
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#12
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the best results weve had is to paint the outside of the body first with black 2pack let dry for a day then chrome paint then cover it with a clear with a flexing agent the same stuff they use on plastic front bars on cars the alsa mirror chrome aint cheap it cost $500 for 500ml but man it goes a long way and you need the alsa speed clear on top or it goes grey
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#13
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no need to use expensive paint like alsa, n 2k paints etc.
also, deffinately dont scuff yer shell if you plan on using chrome. not really sure why youre having troubles with it. ive used chrome countless times and havent had a problem with it so far, touch wood. if youre using alclad or spaz stix( i used to use alclad but i think the ss is better personally. you only need a couple light coats. dry off inbetween coats with a blast of air. i dont think you are supposed to use hea to set chrome. then back with a couple of light coats of waterbased black as recommended by the paint manufacturers. make sure its thoroughly dry before lifting any surrounding mask. dont realy know what to say to help ya. good luck and let us know how you get on. |
#14
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I think its mostly a case of 'suck it and see'.
Try different things and see which works best. personally, now, I try and put the chrome down as early on in the job as possible. This way the chrome gets a realy good covering of each paint. The key is to use light coats too. Thicker coats makes life harder when using chrome. Like DCM says. Roll the masking off rather than peeling it off. Its all about the angle that the mask is taken off. |
#15
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Yup! Quite contradicting suggestions here!
![]() I'll just have to experiment then until I find something that works for me... Thanks a million for all tips! ![]()
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Life's too short to go slow! www.ymr.no Tech Tips, HopUps & Bling Xray 2014 XB4 4WD & 2WD | B4 FTW Night Fox XL | Mugen MRX-5 | RB | Futaba 3VCS FASST | Faskolor Visit my showroom |
#16
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have fun mate
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