Tamiya Durga DB01 EP Buggy (A cheaper 501X?)

[A.J. Gee]

It's all good man. I haven't needed to buy bearings for a good while now. Still running kit bearings which have held up pretty good so far, except for one which i replaced because it was a bit gritty. So how are those rubber sealed bearings anyways.? Are they up for the job?

[DCM]

I got some coming, the rubber seal keeps out the dirt far better, plus, if you are careful, you can remove the shields and properly flush them out.

[A.J. Gee]

Hey all. I managed to melt another Diff pulley. I am not surprised nor disapointed as i had the slipper clutch set pretty tight on purpose. The car was taking off like a rocket so i new something in the drive train had to give. It was fun while it lasted and definitley worth melting the 37T pulley. I have since rebuilt the Diff but i am not able to get the Diff as tight as i want to due to a stripped screw that holds the Diff together. My question is: What will be the outcome of having it a little looseer than usual? I assume that i wont be melting another pulley. What do you guys think? Thanks.

[DCM]

you will melt another pulley dude!!

[A.J. Gee]

Oh really? I wasn't aware of that. Damn man, it seems like i cant get this whole Diff science down. I am usually pretty good with correct settings such as the diff, but i guess not with this one. Could it be possible that i am running too much power through the car. i am using the 17 tooth pinion along with the 91T spur and have the mamba 6900 system along with a 28C 4000 Lipo. I tend to keep the slipper kind of tight because i love the acceleration that i am able to achieve.

[DCM]

get the 501X rear diff halves, diff plates and some carbide 3mm diff balls, and new diff screw, you will be sorted, thats what I did. What happens is that the diff slips a little, so you nip it up, and nip it up, then you crack the glue bonding between the plate and the holder, then all hell breaks loose lol

[A.J. Gee]

Originally Posted by DCM

get the 501X rear diff halves, diff plates and some carbide 3mm diff balls, and new diff screw, you will be sorted, thats what I did. What happens is that the diff slips a little, so you nip it up, and nip it up, then you crack the glue bonding between the plate and the holder, then all hell breaks loose lol

Yeah i guess i should get the 501x diff halves. I already have some carbide diff balls in there, so that's all set. A new screw or 2 is a must, although with some creative thought i am still able to tighten and loosen the screw even though it's stripped to all hell. It's funny cause i just used some tweezers to tighten it up a bit more. Just squeezed the sides of the screw and gave it a turn. Worked well.

So when i place the buggy on the floor with just the front wheels touching and hold both the back wheels up off the ground and spin them forward, the diff should not be slipping. Am i correct on this? I have a front one way installed so i don't know if that matters or not.

[DCM]

it can be allowed to maybe slip a little, but not freely.

[A.J. Gee]

Alright thanks bro. Another quick question. Is is ok for both of my rear wheels to be spinning forward at the same time while manually turning one of the wheels? Or should they both be moving in the opposite direction? I know that when the diff is looser the wheels go in opposite directions but when tighter they both move forward while spinning either one of the wheels.

[DCM]

depends on the motor, some of the brushless motors don't have enough magnetism to resist.

[r3nos]

Both wheels spinning at the same directions means that you have over tighten it and it acts as a locked diff. Just like when you install a spool/solid axle in a diff (Speaking from drift experience.. with rc )

[DCM]

not necessarily r3, he is running a mamba motor, which if I remember, doesn't have a strong 'magnet' effect like a brushed motor, so might not offer enough resistance to the drivetrain to force the diff to act.

[A.J. Gee]

Originally Posted by r3nos

Both wheels spinning at the same directions means that you have over tighten it and it acts as a locked diff. Just like when you install a spool/solid axle in a diff (Speaking from drift experience.. with rc )

Thanks for your insight. So should i loosen the screw just enough so that the wheels dont spin in the same direction. DCM mentioned that it may have something to do with the strength of magnetism in my brushless motor. I run the mamba motor by the way.

[DCM]

if you lock the slipper, and hold your spur gear with a thumb, and hold one rear wheel, try to turn the other, if it skips easily, then it is to loose, you will get to know the feeling to be honest, as there is no defined setup on the diff like on, say, a B44

[A.J. Gee]

I think i have it set pretty good for now, but i will take your advice DCM and give that a try.

[Spoolio]

Just been browsing the 'net and checked out the price of some Tamiya blue titanium turnbuckles, $18 for a pair of 3mmx42mm ones, so thats $36 for the car set. As this revelation caused me to fall off my chair I didn't bother to check out the price of the 3mmx32mm and 3mmx23mm ones. I will be sticking with the kit items as the idea of going "blue" was just a bling thing. Ho hum.

[super__dan]

Originally Posted by DCM

if you lock the slipper, and hold your spur gear with a thumb, and hold one rear wheel, try to turn the other, if it skips easily, then it is to loose, you will get to know the feeling to be honest, as there is no defined setup on the diff like on, say, a B44

This is the best advice for anyone with any car on setting a diff, should be tight enough so it's really hard to promote any slip, then back the slipper off, do the same thing and check the slipper is now slipper before the diff, hence protecting it.

[JayUK91]

Hi Guys!
Another British Member here. I've been lurking on this forum for the best part of a week having just bought a Tamiya Baldre (The newer Durga model).

It's fascininating reading everyones experiences with the car! Can't wait to get mine running (it's sitting here, waiting for its Hop-Ups to come!) It's also interesting to see how many people originally built the diffs the wrong way around...me included!

Right, my car...
It really is nice building a Tamiya kit again! My last one was a TL-01 Baja Champ...awesome lil' car! I then bought an RC18B, and having just spent a fortune hopping it up, i thought i'd go back to my roots and buy another Tamiya!

Following some advice i picked up from my many hours of reading this awesome forum, i bought a slipper set, 3Racing steering rack, Tony's Screws hex hardware and front and rear universals!

I'm still waIting for my order from Stella, but my Hex Hardware came today, and i have to say...THEY'RE AWESOME!! I couldn't quite believe just how much better these screws are compared to Tamiya's 'Monkey Metal' screws! IMO an absolute must have!

So...basically, just thought i'd finally post and say 'Hi!'

See y'all around!
Jay

[A.J. Gee]

I was wondering if any of you guys know a good place to get all the bearings i would need to replace on my Durga? Thanks

[Spoolio]

Hmmm, either a general bearing co off ebay or one of the eastern webshops like stellamodels or RC Champ would be my choice.