Aero Setups

[Lee]

Schumacher ones fit no problem, AE ball cups will also fit just fine.

[jimmy]

I used AE.. I managed to break (well, bend) one of the camber link ball cups from a big crash off the table top, I replaced these with Losi grey ball cups since that's all I had. Hot Bodies will also work.

[DaveG28]

I did the front camberlinks too! So far I have corally/academy/HPI cups, all saying 4.3mm, all in reality different sizes to each other!

[DaveG28]

OK,

my setup at the moment:

Shocks: Whities, spacer shortened from 6mm (my micrometer says anyway ) to 5.6mm, blue front springs, red rear, pistons 56front 55rear. Standard ball cups/outer spacers etc. Running kit 30wt oil at the moment.

Wheelbase: one spacer at the rear of the front arms, one at the rear of the rear arms (with 2 at the front of the rear ) I think thats as per kit!

Front:
Camber link on upper outer inside link
camber link far out and high on the c hub (not sure how I'd adjust the outside one, another ball stud further in?)
Shocks mounted inner hole at the top, outer hole at the bottom.

Rear:
Inner camber link on the inner slider, maybe a couple of mill from the bottom (similar to kit's picture)
outer on the middle hole of the hub
no rear toe in as per kit
Single washer under front brace for anti squat as per kit.
Shocks mounted middle holes top and bottom


Drivetrain:
Standard kit all round (not sanded down the rubbery diff things etc, not running one way). Standard spur with (I think) 17t pinion, running LRP sintered (13.something mill, 5.5 equivalent?), LRP touring Sphere ESC.

Using the KO low profile servo.


Any help much appreciated guys (already some good pointers on here), I can do as many changes as I like before I next run, as I am making a chassis change anyway!

One other question, build question really, is anyone else having to file down the rear gearbox cases to mount the rear shock tower? I have the round off the square shape of the casing where the bottom of the tower goes?

Dave

[DaveG28]

Originally Posted by KevLee

I'm running a one-way but i think its personal preference, i'm always faster with a one-way so would pretty much never take it out. Its the NTC3 one that fits, but Aero have one on the way i believe

If you are running the kit diff, thin the yellow spacer down, but when its time for replacement get the small hole gear.

Hi Kev, is that part number ASC1728?

[jimmy]

Dave, the rear tower fitting is fixed on the latest version of the shock tower - not much comfort of course, but thought I'd mention it. You can file the tower or the greabox, I filed the gearbox top like you did, so yes it's normal and really only needs a little off the very corner.

The diffs, well, I thought they might be a little less extreme than they were, but I just found them far too tight when built as kit. AERO have changed this part now to a normal style pulley, so I guess they saw the light also. It's best to take a fair bit off this spacer to ensure it doesn't cause friction. I just laid it on some sand paper and went for it.

[DaveG28]

If/When raceplace get the new tower in I'll get one, not had any problems with the kit version but am convinced I'll screw up those sliders and make them uneven, fixed holes sounds easier to me!!

Gearbox casing filig is no biggy, certainly didn't seem to weaken it in any way!

[jimmy]

haha agreed on the camber slots - maybe ok for someone who pays attention, but it's not designed for people like me.

[KevLee]

Originally Posted by DaveG28

Hi Kev, is that part number ASC1728?

Yep, thats the one

[KevLee]

Originally Posted by DaveG28

OK,

my setup at the moment:

Shocks: Whities, spacer shortened from 6mm (my micrometer says anyway ) to 5.6mm, blue front springs, red rear, pistons 56front 55rear. Standard ball cups/outer spacers etc. Running kit 30wt oil at the moment.

Wheelbase: one spacer at the rear of the front arms, one at the rear of the rear arms (with 2 at the front of the rear ) I think thats as per kit!

Front:
Camber link on upper outer inside link
camber link far out and high on the c hub (not sure how I'd adjust the outside one, another ball stud further in?)
Shocks mounted inner hole at the top, outer hole at the bottom.

Rear:
Inner camber link on the inner slider, maybe a couple of mill from the bottom (similar to kit's picture)
outer on the middle hole of the hub
no rear toe in as per kit
Single washer under front brace for anti squat as per kit.
Shocks mounted middle holes top and bottom


Drivetrain:
Standard kit all round (not sanded down the rubbery diff things etc, not running one way). Standard spur with (I think) 17t pinion, running LRP sintered (13.something mill, 5.5 equivalent?), LRP touring Sphere ESC.

Using the KO low profile servo.


Any help much appreciated guys (already some good pointers on here), I can do as many changes as I like before I next run, as I am making a chassis change anyway!

One other question, build question really, is anyone else having to file down the rear gearbox cases to mount the rear shock tower? I have the round off the square shape of the casing where the bottom of the tower goes?

Dave

Dave,

Try my setup from Oz on the previous page, i've run it like that for the last few weeks on wet slippy astro, dry grippy bumpy astro, and grass and its been ace. I've only just had to change very small things.

There is a hole drilled on top of the hub that you can use to go short on the hub. I found this gave much sharper turn in and didn't "hang on" so long coming out the turn.

55 piston in the back may not have enough pack, i'm running 2 drilled at 56 and 1 at 55 with 35 wt oil.

Also you may be a little undergeared, i was running 21/84 on sunday with a 5.5 14mm sintered. Remember it has the same internal gear ratio as a B44/BJ4 (2.5:1) so you can alway see what those guys are running on any particular track to get an idea.

hope that helps

[jimmy]

Raced the Aero today at southport - started with the setup I finished with at Oswestry. The car was great at oswestry but pants at southport. The grip levels were really high (in areas) and the car was really hard to drive.

I ended up on the same setup as oswestry (posted earlier) with the following changes:

wishbones spaced forward (three white spacers behind)
front shock ball cups unwound about 3 turns to give more droop
40wt oil in the front with kit orange springs
Shocks laid down on the inside hole on the rear tower, and a NEW hole drilled further in on the front tower.*

Thanks to Jim Dixon for his help


The car was awesome, I qualified 6th in the A final - mainly due to the car being hard to drive during qualifying but getting better each round.. Anyway, got up to 2nd, got into first and my nerves went & I was shaking too much to drive so ended up second. The car was really good and easy to drive hard in the final - I still think the setup has a long way to go yet but it's gone really well so far and responds well to the changes we've made.


*The inside hole on the standard tower still leaves the front shocks quite upright - the car felt very edgy and laying the shocks down was what I wanted to do all day. I only got the tower drilled just before the final so had a few laps after qualifying and it was a massive difference, all the other changes were good but laying the shocks down was the thing that helped the most and transformed the car.

[ben]

Jim dixon........ elvo to be

Glad you got the car running good jimmy

[PaulRotheram]

Pictures of the shell jimmy man! it's ace!

[jimmy]

LOL you just want me to look like a fool!

The proper shell is behind but I'd not finished it in time....... so had to improvise. Thanks to Northy for downing his coke quickly so I could race.

[ben]

haha i had to do that with my S4. Lightweight. Thats were the speed came from.

[DaveG28]

Hi Jimmy,

With unwinding the shock ball cups, is that the kit ones or have you put longer ball cups on with more threaded area?

[jimmy]

thats the kit ones on the front, there's still plenty of thread in the rod, but a little (3 turns) makes a good difference to the droop.

[DaveG28]

Think I'd be able to get enough at the back by doing the same?

Don't want to cut down longer cups because I struggle to cut them straight!

[jimmy]

well it doesn't matter if they are that straight or not, just as long as the lengths are the same when installed - just put the shocks side by side, or even lift the rear up and lower it down to see if one wheel touches first...
But yeah, I'm sure you can do the same on the back to get a little extra droop.

[DaveG28]

Think I'd be able to get enough at the back by doing the same?

Don't want to cut down longer cups because I struggle to cut them straight!