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  #1421  
Old 26-04-2008
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Default How to set the slipper?

Just finished building my kit and have to sleep and wake up in 5 hours to go racing. Haha. Just one question though. How do I tell if my slipper is slipping before the ball diffs? With my other cars, I grab one wheel and a spur, and turn the opposite wheel with the other and watch if the slipper plates are moving. With the DB-01, the spur is only firmly in place after we put on the spur cover, after which we cannot grab the spur. I thought about grabbing both rear wheels (feet are handy) and working the front diffs and vice versa, but this doesn't work because the front and rear diffs are directly connected to the non-slipping pulley side of the centre lay shaft, so the slipper doesn't get to work this way.

Toonz, I got the Baldre
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  #1422  
Old 26-04-2008
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I would lock the spur down to check the diffs, then back the slipper off and then test, tighten till it slips the right amount
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  #1423  
Old 26-04-2008
som3blok3 som3blok3 is offline
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Right, just got back from Jewson! Bought some sand and a bag of blue circle cement, stuck in a bit of water and hey presto........ diff plate sicks!! Silly me for thinking it was the same as Poly cement?!?! Glad you guys could put me right. Added a bit of 'shoe goo' aswell, seems really good at the mo, was gonna try 'Pritt stick' but that seemed a bit pony.

On a serious note, found some stuff in 'Hobbycraft' (feel free to laugh), metal to plastic glue with FlexTec technology, withstands temps from -50c to 120c.

Theres enough DB-01 people on here to have a bit of an opinon cast, what glue have we all used and has it been sucsessful?
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  #1424  
Old 26-04-2008
som3blok3 som3blok3 is offline
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Quote:
Cyano/super glue/tyre glue (all the same) will also glue the washers in place but it's a lot more difficult to get the washers off the mounts.
Tell that to my rear diff, so difficult it just falls off? Won't last one pack without falling off, (and it's high branded expensive stuff)
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  #1425  
Old 26-04-2008
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You did degrease the parts first? Use any cleaner, or even good old washing up liquid, but you have to make sure the surfaces are really clean and roughed up (so the glue can grab on to it) before trying to stick them together with cyano. Got a whole pile of touring car diffs with metal washers cyanoed to plastic outdrives, so I know it works.
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  #1426  
Old 26-04-2008
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Bob Smith Industries Super Thin Cyanoacrylate glue onto the diff plates and plastic outers that I roughed up with 80 grit sandpaper and thoroughly degreased. No failures yet despite some serious heat in the rear diff. Got it from PBM in Nottingham but I should think most race shops will sell this or similar.

Halfords Rubber Cement. Complete cack, didn't even last one meeting running a mildish motor. I applied it to diff plates that had been degreased but admittedly hadn't been sandpapered.

I think scuffing the plates and plastic rings is essential as it helps the glue to "key" in to the items being bonded.
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  #1427  
Old 26-04-2008
som3blok3 som3blok3 is offline
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Yes, as crude as it may be, very very hot water and fairy liquid, then dried with bounty kitchen roll. Does that sound sufficient?
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  #1428  
Old 26-04-2008
som3blok3 som3blok3 is offline
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Quote:
I think scuffing the plates and plastic rings is essential as it helps the glue to "key" in to the items being bonded
Only thing I hadn't done. Just been 'roughing it' for a while and tried my new 'Hobbycraft' glue. I'll leave it over night and try it out tomorrow.
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  #1429  
Old 26-04-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by som3blok3 View Post
Yes, as crude as it may be, very very hot water and fairy liquid, then dried with bounty kitchen roll. Does that sound sufficient?
Dunno, I shot my plates and plastic rings with aerosol carb cleaner so I can't comment on the effectiveness of Fairy, although I'm sure it means you have soft hands . Carb cleaner (which I managed to get everywhere) has acetone in it so I had very dry skin for a day afterwards, had to pinch some of beloveds E45 cream!!

Bounty? You are really chucking money at this car mate. I used Lotus Thirst Pockets as its cheaper (and I'd run out of Wilko's Blot, the 4 for a quid rolls).

If I had to beg the big T to redesign one part of this car it would be the diffs. I'd gladly spend £10-£15 more on the kit if it came with proper outdrives rather than the 2 piece thing.
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  #1430  
Old 26-04-2008
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carb cleaner has a lubricant in it, Brake Cleaner is what you need to use.
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  #1431  
Old 27-04-2008
A.J. Gee A.J. Gee is offline
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I thought i would share some pictures with you guy's of my almighty Durga. This is my first time trying to post photo's so i hope all goes well. I hope you guys like the pic's as much as i do.[IMG]file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/All%20Users/Documents/My%20Pictures/Car%20Pictures%20001.jpg[/IMG]
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  #1432  
Old 27-04-2008
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AJ, have a look at the sticky thread for posting photos in the 'general chat' forum - that should help. Not sure if YOU can see the photo you linked to but it won't work for the rest of us I'm afraid as it's linked to your computer.
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  #1433  
Old 27-04-2008
crustysalmon crustysalmon is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by terry.sc View Post
CVDs is the name MIP gave to their rebuildable universal joint driveshafts. CVDs are MIPs trademark so every other company calls them CVAs or in Tamiyas case just universals.
http://www.fusionhobbies.com/Product...A54015&click=2

Everyone calls them CVDs just like we all call the vacuum cleaner a hoover.


Thankyou Terry.sc. Appreciate the link.
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  #1434  
Old 27-04-2008
A.J. Gee A.J. Gee is offline
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Here is my hopped up Durga
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 2.jpg (91.8 KB, 67 views)
File Type: jpg 5.jpg (33.0 KB, 60 views)
File Type: jpg 6.jpg (87.0 KB, 63 views)
File Type: jpg 8.jpg (113.1 KB, 124 views)
File Type: jpg 11.jpg (105.9 KB, 82 views)
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  #1435  
Old 27-04-2008
edvin edvin is offline
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Default Belt tightening?

Btw. How tight should be belt (is the tightenig right word)? Is there sort of rule about correct tightenig?
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  #1436  
Old 27-04-2008
som3blok3 som3blok3 is offline
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Nice pics A.J.

What settings do you use for the ESC? I keep changing mine on the PC, trying to get it to run smoothly. It's a bit jerky sometimes at full throttle, i've got a strong battery, deans connectors and the receiver wires are all well away from the motor leads. I tried shortening my motor wires as somebody mentioned earlier but my soldering iron is not up to the job, dunno what solder those Castle Creations dudes use?!

Be interesting to know how your ESC is set?
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  #1437  
Old 29-04-2008
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Default Season start !

What a wonderful season start ! After waiting for clear weather and a dry track, my Durga ran five packs aon Sunday, performing admirably ! Thanks a lot to all the contributors on this forum who helped me on issues I hadn´t even met yet!
I´m not even waiting for setups coming in on the Durga setup thread, as the cars almost perfectly dialled and smooth as a cat...

Here´s some pics I took with my right hand while driving with my left...:




Durga+slipper+3racing alloy susp.+GMGenius95ESC+BL Evo5.5T
I had to put the receiver (huge+cheap) to the front right side, works great !

Hope you enjoy driving this car as much as I do !

cheers ! Stefan
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  #1438  
Old 29-04-2008
gargadud gargadud is offline
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Congratulations for your happy start.

Our WE was less enjoyable with a high speed crash (thanks to the Nosram Evo and Storm 5.5) against this:

Don't know who was stupid enough to put it there, but we were stupid enough not to notice it before it was too late...


Result: Right rear arm torn off, axle severely bent... and nothing else.

Amazingly the famous suspension balls (the fluorine coated) remained in place!

Good opportunity to clean and check everything!
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  #1439  
Old 29-04-2008
gargadud gargadud is offline
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Here is the pic (hopefully)
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  #1440  
Old 29-04-2008
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thats construction Rebar..... WTF

Anyone floggin a DB-01.... need another one??
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