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#1
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So what's the verdict on how to adjust the anti squat? Shimming the rear arm block won't do it?
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#2
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Shimming the rear block seemed to be fine for my car
![]() You need to trim the block slightly so that it doesn't come into contact with the motor plate or gear cover. Otherwise, Jimmy's method of turning the front block upside down helps too - but I found I had to mill the plate slightly for this to work and it still doesn't allow you to run 0 degrees. I will post some pictures of mine when I get home from work, using both methods you can get 0 degrees without much trouble ![]()
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Schumacher Cougar SV-Durango Dex410-Top Photon |
#3
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I found with changing the rear block only bends the T plate so this doesnt really do anything. The front block does have to be cut down a little and I have it upside down which does drop it a little more.
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#4
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Thats odd?
Raising the rear block should only bend the rear plate down if you don't remove enough material where the gear cover/motor plate is. I can raise mine about 2.5mm without hitting and it has no effect on the rear plate. I have attached a picture of my rear plate.
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Schumacher Cougar SV-Durango Dex410-Top Photon |
#5
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I just had a good look at mine and shimming the rear block didn't bend my T plate down and I still have a small gap to the motor plate as well so there is no pressure from that.
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#6
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I've just come back from my first race meeting with the anti-squat mod and wow! what a difference it makes!
On my local track it has transformed the car. My car has gone from fairly quick but very inconsistent to very very quick and much more consistent ![]() One part of our track has always been causing me problems - basically a double jump followed by a 2 tabletops, the latter with a hairpin turn right at the end of it. Before today, I crashed over this section at least once per race - well today I did 3 heats and 3 Finals without even looking like crashing! The car was awesome - 3 heat wins and 2 A-Final wins sums up just how good the car was - if only it was this good last month at our state championships. I would suggest that anybody who is not totally happy with their setup at least give this mod a try.
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Schumacher Cougar SV-Durango Dex410-Top Photon |
#7
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how do i measure the degree? (if possible, i'd rather raise the rear block than muck around with the front block .. my modification handwork is shocking ![]() |
#8
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I couldn't tell you exactly how much the anti-squat is as I haven't measured it myself - when I've adjusted mine I kept raising the rear block until it the suspension pin looked flat.
To do the mod you will have to modify the rear plate or the rear block - I don't believe there is enough adjustment by doing just the plate so I'd recommend both. And if you don't mod the rear block, then when you put shims under it it will hit the motor plate and bend the bottom plate down as Woody has said.
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Schumacher Cougar SV-Durango Dex410-Top Photon |
#9
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After modification of the tplate do you have issues with it breaking? I have been running the car this year and in 2 meets have broken 2 plates. Granted I am in the US and we have track designers on crack so BIG AIR kills more parts then anything else.
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#10
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if you are flipping your front block upside down then you only need to remove a tiny bit of material from the t-plate (as per picture above). just remove enough material for the inverted front block to clear.
i broke a t-plate a couple of weeks back. BUT this is the 1st T-plate i have had to replaced after 10 months of racing. also, make sure the rear block is not in contact with the motor plate bcos that would create additional pressure on the t-plate. |
#11
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so if u turn the front block upside down means u get lesser anti-squat.. wich means the car wont "sit" as much on power, reducing rear grip? or have i got everything screwed up now? =)
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#12
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Less anti-squat = less forward traction, more side bite (cornering traction),more grip off-power
More anti-squat = more forward traction, less side bite, less grip off-power On the loose tracks I race on - the car was always loose off power, so reducing the anti-squat fixed that.
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Schumacher Cougar SV-Durango Dex410-Top Photon |
#13
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sorry, but I still don't get it...
so if I have a lack of steering and all other countermeasures didn't work well enough, could a reduce/increase of antisquat fix this? which one? I'm running on very hard packed clay tracks with some medium turns and I'm missing some mid-corner on-power steering. |
#14
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Put as much weight as you can in the front bulkhead ( i got about 15g in with roofing lead) then put a 10g under the steering rack that should sort it out
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MOST important don't crash. Kyosho DB1 Kyosho Vega RB5 GenII Kyosho RB 6.7 MB MODELS www.rccarshop.co.uk www.ghostrc.co.uk |
#15
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am is stupid? =) it seems like my brace fits upside down even without any modification.
The T-plate have a little cutout just to make it work.. i think. this is how it looks |
#16
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Thanks, but this has already been done. I also adjusted the front camber links to get most possible on-power steering, but it's still not enough. I see the B4s around which have lots more steering on-power. Can adjusted anti-squat help?
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#17
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I just replaced my T-plate with the optional graphite version and noticed it didn't need to be adjusted ![]() I think you can just file a tiny bit off the top of the block before you mount it upside-down and it will be fine.
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Schumacher Cougar SV-Durango Dex410-Top Photon |
#18
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Yes, less anti-squat = less on-power grip, which means more on-power steering.
It wont make a huge difference though, so if you are really struggling then maybe other areas of your set-up need to be looked at.
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Schumacher Cougar SV-Durango Dex410-Top Photon |
#19
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thanks bender! I will give it a try though.
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