Drive shaft angle????

[SHY]

Originally Posted by Alfonzo

The dogbones (assuming steel) would soon kill the alu outdrives, as there's always going to be a small amount of backlash due to manufacturing tolerances. Hard coated ally is good, but it's still ally underneath and prone to distortion.

With a steel ring on the outside then (saver ring)?

Cuz steel can't be hardcoated right???

[mark christopher]

Originally Posted by Chrislong

tut, your in one of the argumentative moods aren't you? okay okay, your right! ha ha.

I didn't think the purpose of the eccentric cam bearing housing for the pulley box was there to serve the purpose of diff height as a setup aid, but for belt tension. If Mossy or MattW can explain if the purpose is belt tension or diff height adjustment?

Also, having the driveshafts sweep forward or back causes an effect - I am lost at this point though. Can somebody explain?

Chris

i went to the top and was told this at worksop schumacher finals by mr phil booth
turn em over and they still tension belts but also alter diff height

[mark christopher]

Originally Posted by Chrislong

Hiya Rich!

Now you say it, I have a feeling you are right. Can anybody else confirm either way?

ill confirm your wrong again lol

[RogerM]

Wrong, there are many different hard coatings you can apply to steel, such as DLC (diamond like coating) ..... you wouldn't want to be paying for it as an aftermarket opperation though!!!!

This is all very interesting stuff.

When I did the layout for Mako I used a fair amount of rear driveshaft angle to help with the rear squatting. There was also a little on the front, that was there to help limit the effects of the one-way diff (as the car sat under it's driveshafts it helped lift the nose and thus limit the grip from the front end as the diff locked),we had to run as there was no off the shelf shaft one-way and the one I planned never made it off the CAD system as I didn't have my own lathe or mill back then.
The combined effect was to make the car quite reactive to throttle inputs on the front and not so at the rear ..... this resulted in a very smooth drive so the car could be thrown around with out risk of it biting.

Who is going to unlock the other cans of worms surrounding the black art of handling???

By the way the most useful thing you can do when racing / testing is get somebody with good descriptive skills to watch your car and explain what it is doing, even better video it so you can see. When you don't you run the risk of chasing the wrong thing ... as happened to me at Worksop.

[Alfonzo]

Originally Posted by SHY

With a steel ring on the outside then (saver ring)?

Cuz steel can't be hardcoated right???

Ring would help, not sure it would cure though. Steel can be hardened in many different ways, heat treating, nitriding, cryogenic etc etc.
So steel outdrives would be good, but then there's the weight . Titanium maybe?

[Lee]

Roger: We dont need to start a thread on handling we have the black book

http://users.pandora.be/elvo/

[AmiSMB]

Originally Posted by SHY

The first one looks like lubrication for chains. I used to do Motocross, and those chain lubes are great - but still kinda sticky, so it will pick up dust. For chains it's more about preventing wear & stretch than being smooth I think.

I tried out the Finish line dry lube on my Losi 8 buggy at the weekend and I was amazed how it dried onto the CV joints. I have been trying to easy the wear the the 8ight buggy gets on the front centre cvd pins and I have to say that I felt that the car was so free. I will see how this affects the rate of wear.

[SHY]

Well yes, but I'm mostly concerned about friction. That rotating mass gain I've never been able to clock. Total weight reduction yes, but not rotating mass. Spite the theory. This is after all insanely overpowered toy cars

So how can we make these driveshafts as smooth as possible? And as long-lasting as possible?

(I have a strong feeling the ball diff solution can be improved too, but I'll not start that here...)

@AmiSMB: how dry is it? Spray or grease?

[Chrislong]

When I build driveshafts of any type, if its metal on metal then I use black AE thrust lube on them. I then wipe any excess away so the lube is not exposed to pick up sand etc.

On the drive pin end of the bone, I usually lube it then wipe it so it has a thin coat and it feels good.

Trouble is, it'll only feel great like this for a few runs.

New bones and outdrives always make cars feel great (well lubed), especially AE where the bone and outdrive is small which amplifies any play compared to a bigger outdrive such as on a Losi.

And remember guys, all the above in this thread is made irrelevant if you have outdrives with wear, because it'll just pull the pin into the peak of the curve when on power.

Chris

[SHY]

Yes, which is why it's so damn important to take care of this!

How about a cover? Like those old school rubber covers on the Tamiya Frog etc? Worked well back in the 80s!

Anyone tried? Different materials? Neoprene? Rubber stays well in place which is good.

I see the Aero has plastic on the pins for the center shaft. Didn't TC have that before on the driveshafts as well?

[Lee]

TC`s did have the blades on some cars but you had to change the front ones every run if you were running a spool

[_sleigh_]

The D4 runs blades when running the Edit diff halves and I suspect the CAT SX runs them too.

[SHY]

And the idea with blades is to run without lube? And no slop at all?

[AmiSMB]

Originally Posted by SHY

how dry is it? Spray or grease?

I bought the bottle and it goes on wet and it is very thin. When it is dry it is dry to the touch, I left the parts overnight. Seems to have worked really well. I am hoping that this will reduce the wear over running the cvd without any form of lubrication. I got researching after I saw the Dry Ice product by Sullivan and then found that there is a product called Purple Extreme which does a similar thing and then found the Finishing line product to be very similar so thought why not try it

[Gayo]

Originally Posted by SHY

How about a cover? Like those old school rubber covers on the Tamiya Frog etc? Worked well back in the 80s!

Mike Truhe used some on his CR at the last Worlds (pics courtesy of Cédric Devillers)

Edit - look here : http://2007japanworld.blogspot.com/2...si-xxx-cr.html
This thread is fantastic ! You must love the Net and oOple

[Lee]

Cant we just use a fatter pin so it looks like this ==, this would then spread the force applied to the outdrive and reduce wear, and make everything last longer

[SHY]

I'd kill myself from boredom at work without oOple!

Link to webshop for that Finish line product?

Can't see any pic Gayo!

How about ceramic coatings or materials? Aren't those super slippery? Many years ago there was speak about 1:1 ceramic car engines that wouldn't even need oil...

[Alfonzo]

Originally Posted by Lee

Cant we just use a fatter pin so it looks like this ==, this would then spread the force applied to the outdrive and reduce wear, and make everything last longer

You could, but it's always a trade-off with Engineering. You have to consider weights and rotating masses. Also, perhaps you might want to ensure a spare parts demand over the life of the model ..

[Gayo]

Originally Posted by SHY

Can't see any pic Gayo!

Edited

[Northy]

Anyone know what the rubber covers are from?

G