- Rear camber link - takes away the need for roll bars and stops the rear rolling over mid corner
- Rear shocks on the front - put more weight over the rear axle making it better over the bumps
- 22 2.0 rear end - makes the car wider closer to the legal limit as with std hubs the car is very narrow
- Shortie lipo conversion - sheds up to 80 grams of weight
- 10deg castor blocks - moved 2mm further forward makes the car better into corners
- Raising the knuckle arm 2mm - keeps the front end flatter and stops it diving into corners
- Associated/Durango springs - more progressive than TLR items
- New cab forward shell - helps with initial steering
- Centre diff - I can see it working on slippery tracks but not on our high grip tracks, as rather than your front or rear diff feeling a little gritty it would be the centre one that goes (much bigger job to rebuild)
Hope this helps rather than people saying do it it's free.