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  #21  
Old 27-09-2009
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Just noticed the servo has broken lugs on both sides aswell so its a floater! yay! Add another £60 on the bill....sod the expense lets rack up the credit card ! YEEEEEHHHHAAAA
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  #22  
Old 27-09-2009
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like ben says its really just the front. i have a couple of spare nose cones so will bring one on wed if i get down there
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  #23  
Old 27-09-2009
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Cheers Mr Ralls that be most kind of you. Im going to give Ben's suggestion a go and try to pop the chassis back where it should be, and then with a bit of spit and some ferret furr she'll be as good as new
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  #24  
Old 27-09-2009
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Id rebuild that up to an x6 squared saving you quite a bit of cash rather then buying a new x6 squared
Scanner servo's are cheap and good value for monny
If not see if anybody has a duff servo of the same kind and transplant front cover's or buy a new cover?
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  #25  
Old 28-09-2009
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when you place your order with dms, add a servo case much cheaper
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  #26  
Old 28-09-2009
Jamie B4 Jamie B4 is offline
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  #27  
Old 28-09-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by niggs98 View Post
when you place your order with dms, add a servo case much cheaper

Ah ha! didn't know the cases were available seperatley! Great!
Cheers Mr Ralls...
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  #28  
Old 28-09-2009
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http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=31115

I started a thread the other day to try to find out the best adhesive for RC repairs . Looks like you could benefit from this too. (assuming someine will reply to it).

I just crashed my B4 into the wall of my house.

In my case I think I had the battery wire mounted touching the speedo/receiver wire which caused a major "glitch" when I tried to gently drive it on my small front lawn. I only broke a front arm though.
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  #29  
Old 28-09-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Team No Idea View Post
Just noticed the servo has broken lugs on both sides aswell so its a floater! yay! Add another £60 on the bill....sod the expense lets rack up the credit card ! YEEEEEHHHHAAAA
Floating sero...no problem: use double sided tape, plus bind it to the chassis with fishing line till it wond budge. This works well for me in my M18MT.
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  #30  
Old 28-09-2009
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Get the new plastic chassis? It doesn't look too bad
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  #31  
Old 28-09-2009
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good idea if he had a squared!!
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  #32  
Old 28-09-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Team No Idea View Post
Hello hello. Its a sad day.. after coming back from the F345's without needing to carry out any repairs to my X6 i was pretty pleased with myself. However after a bit of loving fettling with the car today (refreshing the shock oils) i took it for a test drive...
I put the car on the floor pulled away and then withing seconds the car was up to full speed, i had no control at all, the steering and brakes didnt work, there was no response at all from the transmitter to the car.
The car carried on flat out about 50 yards up the road all i could do was stand and wait for the inevitable. Then came the brick wall.

R.I.P X6.

So now its car replacement time, when i find some money.... but the thing on my mind is how could this happen? does anyone have any idea how it could have taken off but then not responed to anything i tried to do?.

All the batteries in the trasmitter and car were fully charged, Im using spektrum and havent had interference issues all year..

It was bloody spectacular though.!!! I still havn't found all the parts!
I think its going to be cheaper to buy a used X6 rather than repair this one.
http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=31251
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  #33  
Old 28-09-2009
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How much to bring it up to a X6 Squared spec?
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  #34  
Old 28-09-2009
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probably a whole new conversion kit as buying what would be needed seperately probably wouldn't be worth it
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  #35  
Old 28-09-2009
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i remember seeing a friends tamiya bigwig meeting a steel girder at a fair turn of speed years ago, now that was impressive, took whole side off the car, including sides of gearcases, chassis and part of my 9.6 volt battery that was being used! the only useable parts left over were the right hand suspension and a servo. motor, receiver and so on were all junk
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  #36  
Old 28-09-2009
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Full punch into a wall, ouch! As others have commented, I always try to bind my spektrum stuff in neutral. Full brake is tempting, but then if you have a split-second radio hit during a race it upsets the car terribly; neutral has been the safest bet for me.

From the pictures, I'd say you could fairly cheaply go 'half-squared'. If you bought a 1005/1006 Squared Chassis, 1223 Battery strap, and 6142 hinge pin bushings you'd have everything to put the old rear end onto a new chassis (along with some miscellaneous hardware like the 1" battery hold-down screws).

Then, at your leisure or when you break a rear arm, you can put the 3012 squared control arms and 3313 squared CF tower on and have a full-version Squared.
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  #37  
Old 12-10-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul_Sinclair View Post
Full punch into a wall, ouch! As others have commented, I always try to bind my spektrum stuff in neutral. Full brake is tempting, but then if you have a split-second radio hit during a race it upsets the car terribly; neutral has been the safest bet for me.

From the pictures, I'd say you could fairly cheaply go 'half-squared'. If you bought a 1005/1006 Squared Chassis, 1223 Battery strap, and 6142 hinge pin bushings you'd have everything to put the old rear end onto a new chassis (along with some miscellaneous hardware like the 1" battery hold-down screws).

Then, at your leisure or when you break a rear arm, you can put the 3012 squared control arms and 3313 squared CF tower on and have a full-version Squared.

Thankyou Paul for your advice and part numbers!

Due to the help of several generous oOplers, the car is now as you have described "half squared"

Thanks to all who helped, your generosity astounded me, oOple is the friendliest forum ever!!
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