Team Tekin Q&A

[mikeyscott]

Originally Posted by DCM

ok, the base setup for the uk is.

BS-100
NW-8
TP-3
MT-1 (Brushless fwd/brk)
Timing-80
Limiter-90

Dual Mode enabled.

Whats your setup on the XXCR?

Cool. I'll check and post a screen shot when I get home.

[DCM]

no worries, it is usualy the neutral width too high that causes it, but be good to see what firmware your running and what your settings are. Also what motor.

[mikeyscott]

Originally Posted by DCM

no worries, it is usualy the neutral width too high that causes it, but be good to see what firmware your running and what your settings are. Also what motor.

Firmware is the latest and motor is a LRP X11 7.5

[DCM]

should have awesome brakes, need to see your setup first.

[magnus]

Will the same setup go for the RS (not pro) as well? Or is it less powerful? When I compare with my old LRP it's much more powerful than my tekin. Although tekin is smoother and easier to drive.

[DCM]

yeah, you got that right, the setup is the same, just less current handling.

The Tekin should be really good power wise though.

[RickRick]

I'm running a rs pro, and a tekin sensored 3.5 in a predator, 14t pinion standard 72 spur no idea of internal ratio though i'm affraid

i can just about do 5 mins using a 3400 23c lipo, before thermaling, and only around 3 mins with a 5300 40c pack

i've got plenty of air holes cut in the shell, and i've got the speedo mounted on a bit of ally, as much to raise it up into the air flow as anything
Any suggestions to help run cooler??

[DCM]

yes, drop down to a 5.5 or a 6.5, why are you running a saloon based motor in a buggy, thing must be going warp factor 9!!

[Fabs]

Lol I can't say any better than that DCM...

No one in their own mind would run a 3.5 on anything else than a touring car, and even then would it need to be with 5-cell certainly not Lipo...

[Randy p]

Sorry but I agree. A 3.5 is an onroad motor for sure, and a damn fast one at that!

Most guys running 4wd mod don't go lower than a 5.5. My personal favorite is the 6.5

[RickRick]

i never said i wanted to do well!! warp factor 9 is about right, and quite hard to control, however it's proving the preds quite strong, only broken one ball end so far thing is i can normaly just make 5 mins so only after a small improvmeant i have got a 5.5 spare though :-(

[philbert1664]

Hi there,
Just wondering is someone can sanity check this set up. I was running at Eastborne in the 13.5 support class this weekend in 1/10 touring cars, and I never seemed on the pace, a good 1.2 sec off per lap. A good lap was 13.5 sec. (OK, on the straights as well as the rest of the track )...

The track is fairly small, but I was getting done by the end of the straight after having a good few car lengths advantage at the start....

13.5 GM motor (fixed timing at whatever they fix it at)
Tekin RS Pro
FDR 5.25 (I was a tenth quicker with an FDR 5.48)
Temps 46-degC after 6 mins (started 28-30, pretty much the same with 5.48, it was 36 degC with FDR of 5.73)
I had a small heatsink and no fan

I haven' got a Hotwire yet (please send more to the UK) so couldn't get access to Boost.

Was I under geared? I went up one pinion through each of the rounds.
Am I suffering from everyone else having "boost".

Comments appreciated.

By the way, brakes were really good.

[discostu]

hey

if i were running the tekin with 13.5 on that motor the fdr seems about right maybe would have gone up a touch i would have ran full boost on esc and cranked motor timing round as far as it would go. the trick at eastbourne is carrying major speed you may have found your off the pace because of setup nothing more i ran ther stcc there last year and q10 on the grid which was pretty disapointing however it rained before finals and ended up winning the first two legs by 2 laps and came to the conclusion the car was generating way to much grip even tho i cauld drive the car all day long it just wasn't fast enough as soon as it rained the car still had excelent grip and a mearly run rings round everybody lituraly. and ended up winning the stcc for the second year.

stu rand

[philbert1664]

I was struggling on the slower corners at the end of the lap, but the fast sweeper at the end was good..

I generally kept up on the infield.....

I'll try and get my hands on a Hotwire......

[discostu]

yeah it sounds like a car setup issue rather the esc setup.

stu

[Fabs]

Originally Posted by philbert1664

Hi there,
Just wondering is someone can sanity check this set up. I was running at Eastborne in the 13.5 support class this weekend in 1/10 touring cars, and I never seemed on the pace, a good 1.2 sec off per lap. A good lap was 13.5 sec. (OK, on the straights as well as the rest of the track )...

The track is fairly small, but I was getting done by the end of the straight after having a good few car lengths advantage at the start....

13.5 GM motor (fixed timing at whatever they fix it at)
Tekin RS Pro
FDR 5.25 (I was a tenth quicker with an FDR 5.48)
Temps 46-degC after 6 mins (started 28-30, pretty much the same with 5.48, it was 36 degC with FDR of 5.73)
I had a small heatsink and no fan

I haven' got a Hotwire yet (please send more to the UK) so couldn't get access to Boost.

Was I under geared? I went up one pinion through each of the rounds.
Am I suffering from everyone else having "boost".

Comments appreciated.

By the way, brakes were really good.

Very simple, you need either someone with a hotwire to sort your speedo up or to get yourself one.

Basically as standard the RS runs in dual mode which is less than ideal with spec motors where you REALLY want to run sensored only.

Once you get access to the hotwire set in sensored only and the timing boost to max it'll be like driving a different motor.

[Lowie]

question:
I will be running in a friendly Touring-endurance-competition this weekend, using my brand new Mi4.
I will be running a RS Pro combined with an Orion 17.5 or 10.5 brushless-motor.
I would prefer to use the 10.5 and use very soft settings on the radio and ESC so that we would drive on consistancy and no-damage.

The endurance consists of:
3 hours driving
pause and BBQ
last stint of 3 houres.
Track will be a concrete playground in a little school.

Are there specific settings I could/should use on the ESC so that it will run soft but not "turtl'ish" and will not heat up too much.
To be safe, I intended to use a litle fan on the motor anyway ... but while I'm typing this ... i'm thinking I might reconsider this and actually aim that fan at the ESC?

I usually run my RS Pro in my Pred and this ESC never let me down or became too hot, even after long training stints, so I know it will "eat" that endurance without any problem, but better safe then sorry as they say.

thx in advance

ludo

[Fabs]

Nah you won't need a fan I don't think as long as you're not using a silly gear ratio, you'll be better off cooling the motor.

To get something not too slow without getting the motor too hot, I think your best option is to set the motor to 0 timing then timing boost at around 10/15, and of course gear sensibly.

[Randy p]

Yeah I agree. The fan is better spent on the motor. 3 hours of driving is going to tax the motor life for sure. Gearing is going to be key for this event. I'd run the 10.5 and gear it so that it can be around 110 for 10 minutes of good paced running. This should be failry easy on the motor. Squeezing the trigger rather than grip and rip will keep motor temps down also...

Dual mode will also help keep temps down, the accuracey is a huge difference in efficiency.

[mikeyscott]

Anyone else running Windows 7 x64 and trying to get the Hotwire software working with the new virtual PC / XP mode VM?

Working on this more tonight and hoping to get somewhere.