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Anyone know what sort of WT the Tamiya (soft) oil is that comes with 54028 buggy dampers?
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#2
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soft - red - 20
soft - orange - 30 soft - yellow - 40 medium - green - 50 medium - blue - 60 medium - purple - 70 hard - pink - 80 hard - clear - 90 hard - light blue - 100
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dragon paints : team tekin : fusion hobbies :SCHUMACHER RACING : Nuclear R/C for all my sticky and slippery stuff - if it needs gluing or lubing, Nuclear RC is the man! |
#3
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get some much more oil, it's much better than the tamiya crap
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Associated TC5 Tamiya TT-01E Quite a rare discontinued hard to get hold of NIB Tamiya TB-01 ![]() |
#4
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random child
A
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Ashley Williams I always thought by 2013 we would have flying cars, but we have got blankets with sleeves! |
#5
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actually the Tamiya stuff is pretty good, just small bottles, but they are colour coded which makes it so you don't need to remember what weight oil went in lol
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dragon paints : team tekin : fusion hobbies :SCHUMACHER RACING : Nuclear R/C for all my sticky and slippery stuff - if it needs gluing or lubing, Nuclear RC is the man! |
#6
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If you had lived in Japan or knew japanese people...you'd understand that what they do is not exactly a crap. ..
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#7
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I use AE only
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TRF501X - 201 |
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Excellent
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#11
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I have the 90wt then the clear bottle.
And the "stock" yellow soft for the rear. I ran this setup and it worked great.
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Associated B44, Tamiya 501x Worlds Edition Losi XX-4 finished project TRF 201(coming soon) |
#13
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BMag, do you run pistons with the 90wt oil or not bother?
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Graham North http://www.atomic-carbon.co.uk https://www.facebook.com/atomiccarbon https://www.facebook.com/nortechracing |
#14
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#300 IS NOT 30WT |
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I always run AE or Losi oils. The Losi oils are color coded AND have weights printed outside the bottle on the label. It even has the weight printed on the bottle cap.
The AE oils have a HUGE weight printed on the label... |
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WOW GUYS! This thread is a total FAIL! I'm suprised you guys would sticky the first bit of nonsense someone posted.
Tamiya oil is measured in CST (centistrokes), a WORLDWIDE STANDARD In no way is a 900cst damper oil anything like a 90wt. In fact, "Weight" is not a universal standard, so you cannot compare one brand of oil's "weight" to another without actually measuring it. Every companies 30wt oil will be quite a bit different. Yes, this goes for motor oil as well... Here's a little article for you: http://www.rcrcr.com/index.php?optio...eral&Itemid=46 |
#17
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You said it!! Comparing CST to WT is very tricky and no where close to what was posted in this thread..
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#18
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build the shocks as per Tamiya instructions and then put associated 40 weight in the front and associated 30 weight in the rear for a good balance. works a treat at my local club. |
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Super Gripper: Do you drill out the upper caps and add the bleed screws?
- if so: How far up do you push the piston/rod before installing the bleed screw? - if not: How much air do you leave inside the dampers? The TRF damper instructions don't even agknowledge the function of the bleed screws (even though they provide them). The 501x instructions mention installing the screws, but not how to setup the fluid w/ the valve in place... |
#20
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i fill the dampers 2/3 then slowly raise the piston allowing the trapped air to escape while making sure the piston does not break the surface of the oil. when all the air has escaped i then fill the damper cylinder to the top. the oil at the top should look concave. pull the piston all the back down. top up cylinder if necerssary. screw cap on. hold the threaded portion of the piston and push all the way up to your fingers. when you let go the piston should come back half way down by itself. damper set. easy. hope this helps I have done it this way for over 20 years and never had a problem. |
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