recommended 210 upgrades and mods

[johnnygibbon]

allthough there is good set up advice and pics of upgrades ect i wanted to start a thread to see what was the most poular upgrades and or recommended mods for the 210 and what weak points it may have
the main parts i think may need upgrading are

.front hubs/spindles - saw one break of a crash on some doubles
.shock towers - look strong but carbon towers seem poular
.rear hubs - do they hold up well or is alloy the way forward
.gear diff or ball diff - most people seem to be running ball
.extra weight - is it neccesary and where should it go
.what front tyres - for outdoor astro as a good starting point
i will be running yellow mini spikes on the rear but unsure what front to use .. thinking staggers or slim spikes .. am i right ?

i no these cars are pretty damm tough generally but i would like to make mine a little more bomb proof so its got a better chance of surviving my 2wd efforts
but dont want to spend a fortune on uneccesary upgrades cos these cars seem to run dam well as standard but any little mods or tips that help are well appreciated

i will be running big 5200 lipo stick packs and full size servo in mine so i dont no if extra weight will be needed

thanks in advance

[Gunthar Guntharsën]

The car is really tough. I still havent broken anything and my car is box stock. I've cleaned the diff once in I guess a hundred or more runs and flipped the diff rings.

I've replaced the the ballcups with rpm cups and tc5 ballstud. The cups were fine at first but after 2 months they start popping off.

In mid motor configuration the car needs a lot more weight in the rear (imo), that's hard to achieve with a full lipo. I'm hoping somebody will make a conversion to change the battery layout to side by side saddles.

Havent ran the car in rear motor config, but it will need weight in the front. Neumann's car at the reedy race had a 60gram brass piece in the front.

[mattr]

Just weight in the front.
Cream does an under servo weight, and there are a few others doing "heavy" components for the front.
Just have a poke round on the forum.

I just broke my first 210 bit. The steering plate.

Other than that, the only thing i can think of is to convert to the metal shock stand offs, as opposed to the plastic+bolts that the car comes with.

http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=95403

[jamiekerr14]

when I had my 210 all I broke was X2 front towers on 1st test day. That is all

Hop ups I put on it

Ackula Racing Front/Rear towers and battery strap
Cream battery weight Kit
10g under the steering ack plate
AE SC10 Gear diff

Car was spot on and built like a tank.

[Big G]

All I broke was the steering plate which was replaced with a Atomic Carbon one.

I've fitted the alu shock stands for easier adjustment.

[NeilRalph77]

Some of the factory driver's are running smaller spurs so they can get the motor/weight further back guess that negates the idea of putting weight in the front, but as always it's down to personal preferance. Rear towers, RF toe block's (including balls) and front axles would be on my spares list.

[mof]

Originally Posted by Gunthar Guntharsën

In mid motor configuration the car needs a lot more weight in the rear (imo), that's hard to achieve with a full lipo. I'm hoping somebody will make a conversion to change the battery layout to side by side saddles.

Havent ran the car in rear motor config, but it will need weight in the front. Neumann's car at the reedy race had a 60gram brass piece in the front.

Neumann had a lot of weight in the front (+65g) in mid motor config, too, at "off road wars"...

[johnnygibbon]

Ok I'm on for some carbon goodies this week
I might make myself some weight ballast to experiment with on track
Car has ceramics in the diff
Feeling confident in it and it hasn't even hit the track yet
What tyres seem popular for the front wheels
I'm thinking of going for a set of staggers on the front or maybe spikes
Cheers for all the help people

[rcjunky]

All my locals here in Canada run aluminum steering racks and rf pivots because the stock ones are flimsy, hence why I now sell them

[hottuna]

The stock ball cups are great, no need to upgrade.
From my experience with lots of training and some races with the 210:

Steering rack is a bit weak, shock towers, at least the rear one tend to give up easily.
Other when that it's a very rigid car that needs no further upgrades.
Don't get tempted to buy all all the "must upgrade parts" you read on the net. The 210 is a very well build car out of the box.

[Skye]

In my experience the essential changes are similar to what has already been said...

I have changed :

Front shock tower to the Cream CF one with the alloy ball stud holders. This is the best option in my opinion as it enables you to keep the ball studs in their original position.

Rear shock tower to Akula CF version.

Steering rack to Akula CF version.

Ball studs to Losi ones. I have Losi 22 cups, studs and turnbuckles on the front and haven't had any problems since. I've left the kit ones on the back, but up front they were hopeless. They came off far too regularly and also used to slip on the turnbuckles on impact so the camber was forever ending up way out by the end of a race.

Since I have made these changes I haven't had any further problems.

[tomvanelsen]

if i were you, i'd go with cut staggers in place of normal staggers, and on the rear i would use mini pin in yellow, they work better than the mini spikes, i just started driving an dex210 and those tires work well even when its wet.
i haven't broken anything yet, but thats because our track only has one big jump and two really small ones it was originally an 1/5 scale track but 1/10th buggy's are getting more and more popular

[s22jgs]

Having been driving the 210 for a while now i can tell you it is very strong considering its mainly plastic.

Only thing i have broken is a front hub, and that was after landing on a wall lining a table top jump.

in all honesty, the car does not NEED any upgrades. Its fantastic out of the box, as is Durangos selection of kit springs.

If you want to upgrade items i would suggest:

• Changing the plastic shims/spacers for the gold ones as the plastic ones seem pretty soft and once you tighten up a ball stud, a 2mm spacer is no longer 2mm but less.
• Shock stand offs - change these for the 410 rear ones. Again i dont think its needed, kit style is fine, but the 410 ones allow for an easier and quicker adjustment should you wish to move them.
• Rear camber plate. This is something i havent done myself, but it allows you to run a much shorter link at the rear which seems to help handling on a high grip track. Personally i find the rear end fine as kit.
• Weight wise i dont personally beleive the car needs any. but then this is going to be a personal thing according to your driving style. I am running about 60g behind the servo purely as i run saddles which are lighter than a stick pack, and also run a low profile servo.

Tyres depends on track surface and weather conditions. staggers are the general front choice, cut stagger will give you a bit more steering, but have a high side wall which can generate some grip role.