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#1
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I was wondering if anyone else has encountered the same problems as I have for the last 2 meetings. 1st one is that a front wheel nut coming loose despite me running hot bodies serrated wheel nuts. Should the tension be checked before every run ?
Secondly, I am having one of the cvd pins coming out of the drive shaft every couple of runs even though the grub screws were threadlocked in. Any help would be much appreciated ![]() |
#2
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I found thread lock stopped my pins coming out, so not sure what else you can try to be honest.
With the front wheel nuts, again I thread lock them (I know they're already locking nuts) and then retighten between each run. Normally they have stayed fully tight with the thread lock though. One warning on the latter, I find the thread lock makes the nut not always thread onto the axle properly, mine tend to strip about every 3 months and I change the wheel nuts at that point. |
#3
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Ok thanks for that Dave, im assuming you mean the nuts strip and not the axles ??
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#4
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Are you using a one way & are you losing the front right wheel?
Ive not had a problem with the cvd pins on the Tamiyas but if you've built them correctly and still can't stop it maybe you could try putting a tiny flat spot on the middle of the pin? That's what some of the HB D4 drivers have done as it seemed to be fairly common on that car. |
#5
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yes and yes front right every time. What is it what is it ??????????
Ok well if its a flat spot thats needed then so be it |
#6
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Front right because that is the side where the right-hand thread of the wheel nut is worked loose by the one-way rotation of the axles. On the other side it will tend to tighten.
Try using the newer Durga wheels from now on which are a snug fit and don't wobble on the hex at all, this should help to keep the wheel on. |
#7
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It's hard to explain
![]() The hex is moving slightly in the wheel - this movement is probably worse on some wheels - and certainly worse on more worn wheels. Under power the front right wheel might rotate back slightly (relative to the axle) and because the HB nut is securely tightened to the wheel any movement of the wheel effects the nut. So..... the nut loosens slightly - which allows the wheel maybe to move a little - which loosens the nut, which allows the whe..... well, you get the idea. So from nowhere the wheel can spin off really quickly! The left hand wheel will tighten up under acceleration, so that's no problem. This is really evident on high grip and BAD wheels. That's not to say the original 501X wheels are BAD - but they aren't amazing. The new DB01 wheels look virtually identical but have a much tighter hex - and so far I've not had this problem. Once your wheel has come off it will always come off with these nuts. They hold things so stongly but are only as good as the wheels they attach. |
#9
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![]() Quote:
Also have you tried Stu Wood, and asked him what issues he had? Worth a try anyway.
__________________
www.kamtec.co.uk www.fibre-lyte.co.uk answer-rc.com/uk/en/ Answer UK team driver Designer of the Lazer ZX/ZXR carbon fibre tub chassis Designer of the Lazer ZXRS |
#10
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About CVD's pins, yes for sure you need to use thread lock, but you have lot of quality and hardness of thread lock !
Personally I use Loctite hard thread lock on the pressure screw thread but also on the end of the screw, like this I never loose a pin on 15 years of racing CVD's ! About wheel nut, the solution to be using US style nut ! The M4 thread looks pretty near than the US thread (CVD type) Use aluminium Losi nut directly on original TRF wheel shaft ! For the fun, in Japan I saw satoshi Maeuzumi using Rayspeed rear hub, with B4 CVD's, when I ask why, he said that's just for big race to do not loose a wheel during the race, he use US type nut with MIP CVD's . Since he saw my car with my tip, he use evrytime ! ![]()
__________________
Team ASSOCIATED / Team NOVAK / JCONCEPTS / CML/ OPTIMIZED / SMS / Oople / CD Paint |
#11
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Dave, could you put some heatshrink around the cvd to help stop the pin popping out? When i ran my tam i used hot bodies wheel nuts and just kept checking them, did snap a wheel hex once mind
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#12
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Hey looks exactly like what I said earlier, and it does work with the heatshrink (Brian Kinwald gave me the idea)
__________________
www.kamtec.co.uk www.fibre-lyte.co.uk answer-rc.com/uk/en/ Answer UK team driver Designer of the Lazer ZX/ZXR carbon fibre tub chassis Designer of the Lazer ZXRS |
#13
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![]() Quote:
![]() I tried some thread lock on the axle whilst still running the hb serrated nuts and it still came loose just before the end of my first run tonight ![]() It just doesnt make too much sense to me as my first 2 meetings with the car went fine, surely the axles dont need replacing now after 5 meetings ?? ![]() I will see if I can pick up some losi wheel nuts on sunday at worksop ![]() |
#14
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new wheels! The hex is sloppy and that's undoing these wheel nuts. If you want a wheel nut that won't come off easily (even with stripped wheels), use the kit ones but hammer them.. Woody showed me this 'tip' and yea, it really makes them tight. tight enough that I had a nightmare getting them off, but tight all the same
![]() like I said, DB01 wheels should solve your problem as they are very tight on the hex. |
#15
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Cheers Jimmy, I could really do without this ruining my day on sunday, I will go back to the standard ones whilst I try and get some losi ones. I have stripped 2 db01 wheels and about 3 501 wheels so far but the db01 wheels do feel much tighter. Im just suprised really at tamiya I guess
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