Tyres for polished wood - 2wd

[colmo]

I've returned to my original stomping ground of CVMCC (most westerly BRCA club!) which runs in a small church hall, so polished wood. No carpet, and unfortunately, jumps are infrequently used too.

It's a 4wd buggy club, but for an event later in the year, I'm learning how to drive a 2wd there. Last night, after a few rounds faffing around with springs, weights and shock positions, I nailed down a working setup on my X6, which went brilliantly for the first minute or two. Then it would all go wrong - the car would get squirrelly and became a devil to drive. My guess is that the tyres, Schumacher yellow minispikes, fairly worn, were going off.

So, how do I prevent this?

1. Use fresher minispikes.
2. Use full spikes (the larger spikes should heat up less.
3. Change the insert to prevent tyres heating up.

I'm also considering playing around with 'slim' tyres - 4wd fronts mounted on the rear, which would exacerbate the heat problem on minispikes, so perhaps might need a harder compound or larger spike?

[MHeadling]

At Faversham club (polished wood) we all use Yellow Sch Full spikes front and rear on the 2wds.

Its quite handy to run the fronts in on a 4wd to take the edge off the spikes then mount them on 2wd rims.

[colmo]

Originally Posted by Mark Headling

At Faversham club (polished wood) we all use Yellow Sch Full spikes front and rear on the 2wds.

Its quite handy to run the fronts in on a 4wd to take the edge off the spikes then mount them on 2wd rims.

I have a set of full-spikes worn in on a 4wd which I didn't have with me last night - I would have tried them. I presume they don't go off as quick as the mini-spikes? It stands to sense the larger spike would heat up slower. Have you tried the skinny tyre idea?

I keep an eye on the Faversham forum because you guys run on the same surface, but have it even worse than us - our wear rates are significantly better than yours. The biggest factor on grip (bouncy castles notwithstanding - long story) is ambient temperature, actually.

[discostu]

Originally Posted by colmo

I've returned to my original stomping ground of CVMCC (most westerly BRCA club!) which runs in a small church hall, so polished wood. No carpet, and unfortunately, jumps are infrequently used too.

It's a 4wd buggy club, but for an event later in the year, I'm learning how to drive a 2wd there. Last night, after a few rounds faffing around with springs, weights and shock positions, I nailed down a working setup on my X6, which went brilliantly for the first minute or two. Then it would all go wrong - the car would get squirrelly and became a devil to drive. My guess is that the tyres, Schumacher yellow minispikes, fairly worn, were going off.

So, how do I prevent this?

1. Use fresher minispikes.
2. Use full spikes (the larger spikes should heat up less.
3. Change the insert to prevent tyres heating up.

I'm also considering playing around with 'slim' tyres - 4wd fronts mounted on the rear, which would exacerbate the heat problem on minispikes, so perhaps might need a harder compound or larger spike?

if i were you i would check your diff out it is highly unlikely you would be over heating buggy tires on polished floor. mark is spot on full spikes are very good when worn in also minis spikes are proven to be as fast mini spikes however wear in quicker as the spike is smaller.

if it was me i would go with 4wd mini spikes rear 4wd mini spikes front on wide wheels as the 2wd mini spikes have a flat profile.

stu

[colmo]

Originally Posted by discostu

if i were you i would check your diff out it is highly unlikely you would be over heating buggy tires on polished floor.

Hmm, that could be it - it was slipping last time I drove it on astro, keep forgetting about it...as a diff warms up over a run, would it get looser?

[discostu]

Originally Posted by colmo

Hmm, that could be it - it was slipping last time I drove it on astro, keep forgetting about it...as a diff warms up over a run, would it get looser?

no it would tend do get tighter and not work as it should and by the time you have finished marshling it has cooled and feels ok i would recomend bud balls and nuclear rc diff grease this is what i use the combination is excelent. rc domination have these in stock you will not be dissapointed.

stu

[reg]

i would also look at the diff,it shows up more when the track is loose,it makes the car inconsitant,

[colmo]

Originally Posted by discostu

no it would tend do get tighter and not work as it should and by the time you have finished marshling it has cooled and feels ok i would recomend bud balls and nuclear rc diff grease this is what i use the combination is excelent. rc domination have these in stock you will not be dissapointed.

stu

Cheers for the advert - I haven't touched the diff since I bought the car a month back. I have spare sets of ceramic balls and one of those enormous tubes of pink lube that was selling here a while back (now encrusted with superglue from a leaking bottle, as if it didn't look suspicious enough). Both have proven themselves

[discostu]

thats no problem.