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Hi im after a bit of advice for setting up the c4.1 at chadderton. I was struggling for rear end traction and i tried loads of changes.
My initial setup was front silver springs 30wt number 2 pistons, rear was green springs 30wt number 1 pistons. ta minty |
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Forgot to add i was running yellow minipins front and rear
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Did you have to much steering or no rear end??
Where we're you getting no rear end on power or off power mid corner explain further. Both different things and one can sort the other out etc Gaz
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Gareth Hill Schumacher - Sanwa - LRP - Mb models |
#4
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I didn't really have enough steering at first and had to make the front end a little more aggressive.
I felt like i definitely didn't have on power rear end traction and I could have probably done with a little bit more mid corner traction. On corner entry the back end was constantly wanting to break free |
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Try lowering the inner camberlink ballstud on the rear tower, this will make the back feel more locked in and stable.
In my experience the lower the link the easier the car is to drive but not as quick as moving the ballstud up which gives more rotation. |
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![]() You've got 6 holes normally indoors people seem to run the 2nd or 3rd from top Outdoors on low traction they were using the 2nd from the bottom from memory to give more side bite. You can lower as rich has said 1 or 2 holes to give more side bite but then you will want to get more steering! Any questions?
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Gareth Hill Schumacher - Sanwa - LRP - Mb models |
#7
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Which link are you using on the rear mount? What anti squat 1 or 2
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Gareth Hill Schumacher - Sanwa - LRP - Mb models |
#8
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Minty, Post your full detailed setup from Chadderton including motor setup and electrics setup and we can go thought what you could change and hopefully we can expain where you’re going wrong. It’s no good people just posting random changes that will get you more rear end grip or take grip away.
I was there and your always welcome to pop over and I will help. What you must remember is with Chadderton you must compromise on rear end grip to try and generate front end grip. otherwise you will be just to slow. What I did notice is allot of people were under steering with the C4.1 and from what I could see this was due to having to much rear end grip or weight balance was not right (I think). So I am surprised you where struggling with rear grip.
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http://insidelineracing.co.uk |
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Minty, as you saw mine was pretty well balanced and I drove it hard - really pleased with it:
Front shocks: 35wt #2 ae pistons, blue springs, 2 limiters. Mounted inner on tower, inner on wishbone. Rear Shocks: 30wt #1 Ghea pistons, silver springs, no limiters. Mounted 2nd front inner on tower, inner on wishbone. Camber Links: Front inner on hub, inner on tower, 1 washer. 2degree Rear 3rd from bottom on tower, outer on hub. 2.5degree 1 degree Antisquat. Long wheelbase. Trailing axles. 0 degree rear hubs. 0 degree front toe Front axles mounted low, 2 bumpsteer washers. No additional brass items. 10g lead under steering bellcranks. 10g either side of Lipo's, 5g each side at rear of Lipos. Wing is an HB high downforce wing, gurney left full. 7.5 HPI motor geared 24/81. |
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Heres the setup that i was using. I did find i was understeering a little and when i put the inline knuckles on and added the weight under the horn it gave me more steering but the back end was unstable just as before i added the weight.
Thanks for the setup Chris your car did look to be going well on Sunday ![]() |
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Long as your running will make it pivot more easier. Did you put on there your running inline or trailing fronts? I'd start with bradders Worksop setup and adjust from there that's what I'm doing with mine Gaz
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Gareth Hill Schumacher - Sanwa - LRP - Mb models |
#12
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