210 rear camber ?

[andys]

Watching the 210's going round Chadderton today, I'm wondering about the lack of negative camber change throughout the rear suspension travel.

When the car corners hard, the outer wheel is pushed to significant positive camber. This looks all wrong to me as the cars go round and could be a major factor in the 'slidy' cornering many people are experiencing on this track as only part of the tyre is in contact with the track.

Could someone who understands this stuff please explain why the 210 has so little camber change compared with other 2WD buggies ?

[AmiSMB]

You can change the setup to make sure that the car does not go to positive camber by changing the camber link positions and using different amounts of negative camber. I would say it is very early setup wise for the 210 and they will change and adapt over the first year after the car has been released.

[andys]

Yes it's early days, thing is lots of people I spoke to are having the same setup problem - lack of rear end grip and / or the back end pivoting around mid corner.

There's very little set up flexibility on the rear camber as the inner link just fixes to the chassis / gearbox and you can add or subtract washers - that's it !

On most other 2WD cars the camber links connect to the shock tower and you have lot's of options to change the geometry - as well as the link on the hub.

On the 210 - what's the link / washer setting to get the most negative camber change over the suspension travel as I think this is what I need looking at every other 2WD car.

[WHITTLER555]

Hi Andy, I know its more money but put a set of the discounted Dboots on for the next Chadderton meeting and you will be wanting to get rid of grip on the rear!

[samd]

Discounted? Where from?

[andys]

Originally Posted by WHITTLER555

Hi Andy, I know its more money but put a set of the discounted Dboots on for the next Chadderton meeting and you will be wanting to get rid of grip on the rear!

Hi Damo - Front and back - or just back ?

Sam - The Dboots tyres are cheaper when you buy them at Chadderton

[Hulk]

I changed from Schumacher minipins to dBoots in round 4 and put in my quickest time of the day.

They defo had more grip on the rear whilst the front's felt more forgiving, making the car feel really balanced.

Ill be using dBoots front and rear for the remaining rounds.

In terms of camber change, you can lower the inner ball stud all the way down and shorten the link by using the inner hole on the hub.

The hubs have plenty of holes to change camber length so there isnt really any need for extra inner holes.

If you do create more camber change by lowering/shortening the rear link, the car will feel locked in initially but when it does break free it will do so in a snappy way. Higher inner link/longer link will make the car slide in a more progressive way, making it easier to control.

[Origineelreclamebord]

Originally Posted by WHITTLER555

Hi Andy, I know its more money but put a set of the discounted Dboots on for the next Chadderton meeting and you will be wanting to get rid of grip on the rear!

That may make sense: The contact details/adress of Dboots are the same as Team Durango and Arrma, so my guess is they are actually the same company. If that's the case, then probably the Dboots were tested mostly on Durangos, and as such a Durango may perform slightly better in some cases with some Dboots, or the other way around?

[cwp]

Originally Posted by Origineelreclamebord

That may make sense: The contact details/adress of Dboots are the same as Team Durango and Arrma, so my guess is they are actually the same company. If that's the case, then probably the Dboots were tested mostly on Durangos, and as such a Durango may perform slightly better in some cases with some Dboots, or the other way around?

D boots where also ran on a vega and c4.1 with improved grip.