B4 advice

[mpg200]

I'm about to have another go at 2WD, Ive got a B4 and planning on using a 10.5T motor running indoors. Now in the past I have used a 20T brushed in it and had some quite pleasent race evenings at york when I found it rewarding do drive. But the last time I drove it, it was a nasty hateful endswappy beast with not respect for who has the controller, and we fell out big time. So, what is a recommended setup for indoors so me and my B4 can be friends again, also how tight should the diff be? I dug it out last night and found it to be very tight, surely this cant help?

Thanks

Matt

[kayce]

For starters, I think you're going to find that the 10.5 BL is just going to exaggerate the endswapping problem you noted, as it's going to be way more powerful than the 20T brushed you were used to. Just curious, but how large of an indoor venue are you going to be racing at that made you choose the 10.5, because most people agree that a 8.5 is the largest mill they'd consider in 2wd buggy on a large outdoor track ??

[peetbee]

Er Kayce, I think you've got it mixed up. A 10.5 is slower than an 8.5 (whilst admittedly being a bit more powerful than the 20T)
A 10.5 should be perfect indoors.

mpg200 - I would follow the instructions for setting the diff in the manual and see how tight it feels then.
What's your current setup on the car?

[kayce]

Originally Posted by peetbee

Er Kayce, I think you've got it mixed up. A 10.5 is slower than an 8.5 (whilst admittedly being a bit more powerful than the 20T)
A 10.5 should be perfect indoors.

I'm well aware a 10.5 is a wee bit slower than a 8.5, but just saying that a 10.5 is a LOT faster than a 20T brushed. And thus my query on how large an indoor facility he was running, since most are quite a bit smaller than most outdoor tracks were a 10.5 would be a more appropriate choice. The OP was already making reference that the car was a handfull with a slower motor, and your advice ("should be perfect indoors") seems to compound the common newbie problem of "over-motoring" their car, IMHO.

[peetbee]

Originally Posted by kayce

I'm well aware a 10.5 is a wee bit slower than a 8.5, but just saying that a 10.5 is a LOT faster than a 20T brushed. And thus my query on how large an indoor facility he was running, since most are quite a bit smaller than most outdoor tracks were a 10.5 would be a more appropriate choice. The OP was already making reference that the car was a handfull with a slower motor, and your advice ("should be perfect indoors") seems to compound the common newbie problem of "over-motoring" their car, IMHO.

apologies, misread your post, thought you were saying that 10.5 was slower, on re reading can see that wasn't the case.
However, we race in a smaller hall than that and a 10.5 is perfect in the B4, having run it for the last year or so (previously ran a 7.5 cos I couldn't be bothered to change it from outdoors!)
I started racing in 1982 so hope I'm not classed as a newbie anymore!

[kayce]

Originally Posted by peetbee

apologies, misread your post, thought you were saying that 10.5 was slower, on re reading can see that wasn't the case.
However, we race in a smaller hall than that and a 10.5 is perfect in the B4, having run it for the last year or so (previously ran a 7.5 cos I couldn't be bothered to change it from outdoors!)
I started racing in 1982 so hope I'm not classed as a newbie anymore!

When the OP posted the car as "a nasty hateful endswappy beast," and considering how small a venue he's planning to run, your theory (especially applied to him) still doesn't hold much water. Please do explain your rationale.
I won't attest having your length of experience, but I would have thought you'd have learned against over-motoring decades ago.

[mpg200]

Front:
35wt blue springs
rear:
30wt silver springs

yellow mini spikes do have pins also both were awful last time
about 25g for weight in the rear bulkhead
trailing steering arms
cant remember the shock positions of anti squat or wheelbase, i'll check tonight.

I'm too used to lazy 4wd go where you point it
But like i said it has been pleasent and rewarding in the past, and i dont remember changing much except when it was slippy i tighten the diff which made it worse, then i threw it up the corner of the shed and didnt talk to it for 6 months

Cheers
Matt

[Steven Forster]

Originally Posted by mpg200

Front:
35wt blue springs
rear:
30wt silver springs

yellow mini spikes do have pins also both were awful last time
about 25g for weight in the rear bulkhead
trailing steering arms
cant remember the shock positions of anti squat or wheelbase, i'll check tonight.

I'm too used to lazy 4wd go where you point it
But like i said it has been pleasent and rewarding in the past, and i dont remember changing much except when it was slippy i tighten the diff which made it worse, then i threw it up the corner of the shed and didnt talk to it for 6 months

Cheers
Matt

Have you checked the slipper clutch setting ???

[mpg200]

Kayce: The venue is a large ish indoor sports hall
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=25ALnMPEsCE
I run 10.5T in my B44 no problem, some guys are running 6.5 but that thats just silly indoors. as a comparison my B44 rear diff feels a lot looser than the B4 so i think that may be where the problem lies. It was 6 months ago when me and my B4 fell out and I feel ive got much better since then.

Dexter: I'll have a look at the whole gearbox, strip and rebuild as per manual then start over

Bradders setup for worksop should be a good starting point

[peetbee]

Originally Posted by mpg200

then i threw it up the corner of the shed and didnt talk to it for 6 months

LOL!
The setup sounds good, if you're really struggling for rear grip then something I found that helped was an extra .5 degree rear toe in.
Part no 7487 rear suspension mounts - cheaper than hubs!
Are the top of the rear shocks on the innermost hole?
also try setting the spacers on the rear hub so you are running the longest wheelbase setting

[westie]

Originally Posted by mpg200

Front:
35wt blue springs
rear:
30wt silver springs

yellow mini spikes do have pins also both were awful last time
about 25g for weight in the rear bulkhead
trailing steering arms
cant remember the shock positions of anti squat or wheelbase, i'll check tonight.

I'm too used to lazy 4wd go where you point it
But like i said it has been pleasent and rewarding in the past, and i dont remember changing much except when it was slippy i tighten the diff which made it worse, then i threw it up the corner of the shed and didnt talk to it for 6 months

Cheers
Matt

sounds like a good setup to me, check your diff for tightness.