HELP Paint reducing.

[The Chef]

Hi Pro painters.

How much do you reduce your opaque paint by? As I'm having trouble removing the last masked sections without lifting the previous paint.

The only thing that I can think of is that the paint is too think/heavy and wont tear as the mask comes away, it also makes the mask very difficult to remove and lifting the paint on fine areas.

The thickness/weight of the paint is the only thing that I can think of.

[jonmiller]

Perhaps you are laying it on too thick Kristan? Or it isn't fully dry.

[The Chef]

I use a heat gun to take the shine off of the paint. how long should it be left?

May be too thick may not be dry enough. What do you do do you start and finish 1 shell or do you have a few on the go that you rotate through giving them longer between coats. Drying transparent I've found to be fine with the heat gun but the opaques are a different kettle of fish.

Thank you for the reply but any other advice would be a great help.

K

[jonmiller]

I normally always have several bods in the booth at once yes. I find opaques dry very quickly compared to others.
I think you are just applying it too quickly, try fewer lighter coats.
Another option could be that your masking is a touch on the thin side? Mask as before but add another light coat and see if that helps.

[U1timate PigDog]

Originally Posted by The Chef

I use a heat gun to take the shine off of the paint. how long should it be left?

May be too thick may not be dry enough. What do you do do you start and finish 1 shell or do you have a few on the go that you rotate through giving them longer between coats. Drying transparent I've found to be fine with the heat gun but the opaques are a different kettle of fish.

Thank you for the reply but any other advice would be a great help.

K

Hey Chef,

applying paint too thick or mask too thin? maybe? mask would remove fine when the paint is wet still but it would definately open up the possiblility of catching the paintwork and marking the previously painted surface. So I don't think that would be the problem,

Nevertheless I use a hair dryer to dry mine and I let the whole body get warmed up and apply heat to both inside and outside of the body to give the best drying effect

If yur apply the paint a little too thick before drying it will definately cause it to overlap (build up)on the mask and will cause the paint to tear when removing the mask even if the paint is dry.

I'd try apply the paint in thinner coats, and possibly giving a extra coat of liquid mask if it only tends to happen on the last bits of mask to be removed.

I also re-cut the lines around the windows before removal as these get hit with the most paint.

A bit of a essay but hope it helps.

[U1timate PigDog]

Also I dont tend to reduce opaques unless they require doing so eg. shadows etc and black and white sometimes need a little reducing more than others.

[eyeayen]

When I'm painting I use a heat gun, much hotter than a hair dryer to the point I almost can't hold the shell as it gets it so hot. I let this cool slightly before putting on the next coat.

I also try and cut along the mask before I move it to save this. Only had this problem with masking film and water based paint.

You could try keying the shell up too, that would make the paint stick more but I'd say the best idea would be to cut along your design.

Also keep the painted area as confined as you can, spray everything to make sure you get an even coat will load the masking up you haven't removed so then by the time you're on your last colour it's all a bit thick and therefore might lift ???

Trial and error is usually the key mate, none of this is ever easy