22 slipper settings - nightmare.

[andys]

Anyone got any mods / tips for setting the slipper / diff ?

I thought I was good at this stuff, but after rebuilding my 22 diff with ceramic balls, 3 meetings in it began to slip.

I had to keep tightening the slipper a touch as it's a real knife edge getting it spot on, it was slipping far too much so I kept tweaking it. End result was that the diff started making that horrible 'squawking' noise and it slipped instead !

Diff now feels horrible and needs a rebuild

Also, the slipper gets bloody hot - is that ok ?

[steveproracing]

Your diff was too slack by sound of things Andy. However you are right about the slipper being a nightmare to set. The solution is simple however. Get an ae spur and pads. They fit straight on and and the adjustment range is much wider!!!

[rcfurtado]

Hi,
What ae spur do you use 78 tooth or 75? Do you use ae slipper hubs also?
Thanks
Ricardo

[AfroP]

which side of the car do you have your duff nut set to?
if your screw is on the same side as the slipper it could cause your diff nut to loosen more often.
most people use the AE T nut as a replacement for the losi kit one

[stegger]

Standard 22 spur = 76 I'm going for a 75 AE spur, forgot that you could change between the Losi and AE. With the AE pads and spur it has more surface area over the pad so i think this is why you would get more of an adjustment window ?

[Gnarly Old Dog]

@andys - sounds to me like your slipper plates have glazed. Once they do that, the slipper becomes almost impossible to set right. You can flip the pads (or even in a pinch scrape the glazing from the pads with a scalpel blade) but once the alloy slipper plates glaze there's nothing I've ever been able to do other than replace them.
Its deffo important to run the diff in before running it in anger - I build mine using standard kit parts except of the new Tungsten Carbide diff balls and use plenty of the kit grease. Once assembled, I tighten to the point where I just can't slip it in my hands when I've got 2 hex wrenches in the outdrives and trying to turn the gear.
I then install it and run it in on 1/8 throttle for 20 seconds whilst holding one wheel - then repeat whilst holding the other wheel. Recheck tightness and adjust (it will need re-tightening) and then repeat for another 20 seconds.
After a further check and re-tighten, I normally blip the throttle on the 3rd repeat to about half throttle (just so as the tyre balloons) but don't hold it there for any longer than a blip. Do that for both wheels and then final adjustment.

I guess experience plays a big part in understanding where to start your slipper setting at but I would also mark the outer slipper plate with a permanent marker pen so you can visually see when that slips whilst holding the left rear wheel and the spur gear (mid car) or right rear wheel and spur gear (rear car) and turning the free wheel with your other hand.

Glazed plates will make the slipper almost useless - but with non glazed plates and good pads, you will want the slipper to slip just before the diff does - so that it protects the diff.
The slipper is not there to aid traction on low grip - if you're running it that loose, you will glaze the plates real quick. It's there to help protect the diff. On our high bite surfaces over here, it's still possible to pop wheelies out of corners or at mid throttle - even with a correctly set slipper but I normally get about 3 meetings out of a diff before it needs a rebuild (more in lower bite conditions with less power)

HTH.