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  #1  
Old 28-06-2011
lordnikon lordnikon is offline
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Default Monkey Build

Ummmed and ahhhed about which kit to get, tossed up between the monkey or the Rat and went for the monkey in the end. Super quick delivery from Modelsport (next day) and i was like a pig in mud.

I had a micro receiver and radio gear already, along with a modelsport RV 12 sniper ESC (http://www.modelsport.co.uk/modelspo...products/31550), bought an LRP GT2 Turbo motor at the sametime (http://www.modelsport.co.uk/lrp-gt4-...products/37675) as i read afew reports of the supplied Ansmann motor being abit junk.

Must admit first impressions were good, went through the kit, all there and accounted for. Flicked through the instructions and all seemed clear and easy enough. I must admit that 95% of the kit lines up and goes together easy enough. I used non-supplied upgraded 3mm screws in the critical areas as the supplied allens are very easy to round off. The only problems i experienced were lining up some of the rear holes was alittle off, fettled and finally all together without too much hassle. The diff spring needed grinding down slightly, it was just alittle to large to go into the drive cup. Rear wing seems to catch on the rear suspension so thats been cut down slightly. Other than that it went together nicely.

Tried it out with a 7.4v lipo and it goes ok. Quick enough imo for a returning newbie and handles really well. Standard shocks will be ditched soon for adjustables, and i ball raced the entire car when i built it with a kit from rcbearings (£10). Once I've spent some time fine tuning it then I'll ceramic bearing the drive and make sure everything is all as it should be. Will probably upgrade to a brushless setup once i am happy with the handling and setup of it also.

I've built plenty of Tamiya kits in the past and this one stacks up ok. You can tell its been built to a budget but for the money i dont think you can go far wrong tbh. Bring on the racing .....
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  #2  
Old 30-06-2011
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daz daz is offline
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Did you fit crush tubes inbetween the rear hub bearings?
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  #3  
Old 30-06-2011
lordnikon lordnikon is offline
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Daz, not that i remember, the bearings just slid in the rear hubs..... is it a worthwhile mod ??
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Old 30-06-2011
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daz daz is offline
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Yes, because as you tighten the wheel nut up you are putting pressure on the bearings and there is nothing to stop the bearings from collapsing. The brass bearing dont need any as they are solid. I just used the same size bearing and cut the outer race off, its a perfect fit.
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Old 14-07-2011
Riblau Riblau is offline
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Hey did you require any other tools or materials other than what came in the box?
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  #6  
Old 16-07-2011
lordnikon lordnikon is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Riblau View Post
Hey did you require any other tools or materials other than what came in the box?
sorry i didn't see this until now, everything required is in the box, only things you need are the electronics

ESC
Transmitter and Receiver
Servo
Battery

It comes with a basic brushed 'clash' motor
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Old 30-07-2011
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billyboy9002 billyboy9002 is offline
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hi guys

any idea where i can get a up rated screw set for my monkey from?

cheers
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  #8  
Old 30-07-2011
lordnikon lordnikon is offline
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I've replaced some of my key area screws with 3mm pan heads, plenty of hardware stores sell them. 10mm long too
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  #9  
Old 30-07-2011
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cheers buddy, will have a look in the one near me
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  #10  
Old 30-07-2011
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VintageRacer VintageRacer is offline
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I'm building one at the moment and have bought screws from here http://www.spaldingfasteners.co.uk/

I've got the front end together and just put the motor plate on the gearbox.

They don't have every size required but most (and those sizes that they don't have, they have something close that will do the job). Cost around £12 including postage, and I have spares of all the screws. The only significant missing ones are the 27mm long screws that go through the gearbox to the motor plate. They have 30mm which might do, but since I didn't know how much space I'd have beyond the motor plate I didn't risk it, although I guess you could grind some down.

The M3x10mm had to be cap head rather than button head, but that hasn't been a problem so far. Also got 16mm countersunk instead of 15mm, but that didn't cause a problem at the front.

So far happy with them.
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