Tlr 22 bump steer

[Scooby27]

Noticed when building the car it has a lot of bump steer which is not a good. After feed back from the big brother who races nitro cars and done ball stud spacers being moved around car seems million times better. Let you know what like when run it.

[reg]

if you put a 2mm spacer on the spindle it should get rid of it

[Wacker 2]

This has been a concern of mine also... I've built it but not ran it yet and have heard quite a few people stating the 22 has alot of bump steer.

When you say the spindle do you mean the outer steering arm???

Just wanna make sure I'm taking washers out or adding washers in the correct place so that I dont mess the entire steering geometry up completely!

Thanks, Jon!

[reg]

Originally Posted by Wacker 2

When you say the spindle do you mean the outer steering arm???

yes mate,im not to sure which setup sheet its on but it does show it,

[Gnarly Old Dog]

Not sure if the instructions are at their clearest regarding this point.

The 2mm washer that is suggested to fit under the ball stud on the spindle (at the wheel end) is only required when using the flat shim under the kick plate.
When using the tapered shim as the instructions suggest, remove the 2mm washer and you'll find that the bump steer has gone.

The tapered wedge effectively raises the spindle as a by product of reducing the kick up.

You'll probably find that you will need different thicknesses of washers if you start to play with the option caster blocks also.

HTH

[coleman758]

Can someone explain bump steer?

[The Pookster]

I think the assumption that you don't want bump steer is not correct, after all every real car sold today has it, and race cars too.

It's easy to confuse bump steer with driving straight and the car steering itself on the bumps, this doesn't happen and isn't the reason for it.

What is used on real cars is a small amount of toe out as the wheel moves into bump, which is exactly what the kit build leads to. This has the effect of slowing down the response of the car as you turn into corners, and the faster you go the greater the effect.

So if you have a set up that feels a bit edgy on turn in, especially on the fast sections, adding some toe out bump steer can have a dramatic effect in making the car feel more stable allowing you to drive a bit more aggresively, and making the car easier to drive.

I think the 22 has a few modern car derived ideas, like the steering rack and bump steer, as well as low roll centres and lower front kick up. It means the set-up might need to be pushed a little outside of the norm to get the full benefit.

[ianjoyner]

Originally Posted by Gnarly Old Dog

Not sure if the instructions are at their clearest regarding this point.

The 2mm washer that is suggested to fit under the ball stud on the spindle (at the wheel end) is only required when using the flat shim under the kick plate.
When using the tapered shim as the instructions suggest, remove the 2mm washer and you'll find that the bump steer has gone.

The tapered wedge effectively raises the spindle as a by product of reducing the kick up.

You'll probably find that you will need different thicknesses of washers if you start to play with the option caster blocks also.

HTH

Thanks Gnarly, I'm not sure everyone's picked up on this. It looks like a mistake in the manual (assuming the aim is 0 bump steer). If you build as per the manual with the tapered kick shim (20 degrees), you should leave out the 2mm spacer on the spindle (which the manual shows in), this will give you 0 bump steer.

If you want to use the flat kick shim (25 degrees), put the 2mm spacer on the spindle.

If you build as per the manual with the tapered kick shim and the 2mm spacer you will be left with bump steer as most people have found.

The actual size of spacer required will also be affected by choice of caster.

[pugboy]

Originally Posted by Gnarly Old Dog

Not sure if the instructions are at their clearest regarding this point.

The 2mm washer that is suggested to fit under the ball stud on the spindle (at the wheel end) is only required when using the flat shim under the kick plate.
When using the tapered shim as the instructions suggest, remove the 2mm washer and you'll find that the bump steer has gone.

The tapered wedge effectively raises the spindle as a by product of reducing the kick up.

You'll probably find that you will need different thicknesses of washers if you start to play with the option caster blocks also.

HTH

I never noticed any reference to the flat kick shim in the manual, mine was built with 20 degree and tapered spacer, then I swapped to the 25 degree, still with tapered shim. Is this wrong? I have 2mm spacer on the hub and no bump steer.