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Old 14-02-2011
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Default Why did my diff self destruct - again!

ok so im bashing the b3 after having rebuilt the diff as per intstructions and slowly but surely the car starts losing speed and finally all i hear is the clutch slipping but no drive transferred to the wheels.... fearing the worst i open the tranny case to find (for the second time) that the diff gear with the bearings has killed itself - what was once a single plastic gear has now become two pieces with the plastic on the inners side of the bearings separating itself into a separate piece of plastic that spins freely from the geared part on the outside with the bearings acting as the roller! given that this is the second time it has happened and each time i need to wait 2 week to get a new diff gear im hoping someone can point me in the right direction! to my mind there could be a few causes:

- overtightening of the diff washers via the diff bolt
- left outdrive and right outdrive wrong way around in tranny case
- problem with the left outdrive hub that has diff spring to maintain correct tension with the diff bolt
- anything else?

im convinced that i have re-assembled the diff correctly but am really struggling to find a cause!
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Old 14-02-2011
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Does it look melted? if it does, then it is heat through it slipping. Perhaps it was in back to front, and so backed off (loosened) and thats when the heat was generated.

If its not melted, and your sure it was built right, I can't help you.
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Old 14-02-2011
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Did you rebuild it with a new bolt and captive nut?
What side of the car did you have the head of the bolt?

Once it's built and installed - tighten the slipper clutch right up and give the car a try, if you hear the diff slip, tighten it slightly and try again. (small adjustments)

Once you are happy the diff isn't slipping, loosen the slipper clutch back off so that you hear it slip the first foot on full throttle starts.
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Old 14-02-2011
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actually yes it looks like its melted! and i would say that i backed it off too much. i backed off the bolt until it did not feel gritty even though i cleansed everything and the balls are in good order and the washers polished with fine wet and dry...
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Old 14-02-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by peetbee View Post
Did you rebuild it with a new bolt and captive nut?
What side of the car did you have the head of the bolt?

Once it's built and installed - tighten the slipper clutch right up and give the car a try, if you hear the diff slip, tighten it slightly and try again. (small adjustments)

Once you are happy the diff isn't slipping, loosen the slipper clutch back off so that you hear it slip the first foot on full throttle starts.
pete i used the old captive nut and bolt

head of the bolt on the right side of the car - the same side with the drive shaft coming out. if i recall correctly this is what is stated in the manual?

once i get the new parts ill try the above for the final adjustments
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Old 14-02-2011
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Yes, the bolt head should be on the same side as the slipper clutch.

I'd get hold of a new nut at least, just in case the old one isn't holding the bolt properly.
Have you got the right greases for thrust race and diff?
Sounds like it may have been too loose then, it can feel a bit gritty and too tight when it's outside the car.
Good luck
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Old 14-02-2011
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1. It's a B3, so it's an older design and maybe not as upto taking modern stuff?
2. What motor and batteries are in it?
3. What surface is it running on? Anything but the shortest grass will cause massive wear and resistance...
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Old 14-02-2011
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and if u like doing donut wheel spins this will tend to kill any diff,
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Old 14-02-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Col View Post
1. It's a B3, so it's an older design and maybe not as upto taking modern stuff?
2. What motor and batteries are in it?
3. What surface is it running on? Anything but the shortest grass will cause massive wear and resistance...
ive known others to run modern electrics on the b3 stealth with no issues but for info i have a lrp sphere comp, vector x11 10.5t and 2s 40c lip trakpower and bionic lipos...

i think the likely cause is that a loose diff has allowed heat to melt the diff gear esp as i was running on wet grass and spinning like a mother...
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Old 14-02-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RC944 View Post
slowly but surely the car starts losing speed and finally all i hear is the clutch slipping but no drive transferred to the wheels....
B3 stealth gearbox should be robust enough if setup properly.

Sounds like it has worked loose (possibly caused by being installed with bolt in wrong direction), slipped and then the heat generated by the continued use whilst slipping has melted the gear.

Never run with the diff slipping as it will cause damage.

Build up as per instructions (may need new diff plates and thrust race now) then test it is not slipping. Do this by locking up the slipper clutch fully and then trying the car on a grippy surface. There should be no slipping whatsover and the front wheels should lift. If there is any slippage at this point then the diff is too loose. (and you will hear a 'bark' noise)
Tighten and repeat until correct.
Once you're sure the diff is not slipping then back the slipper off until you can hear it slipping for a few feet. (will be a different pitch noise to the diff slipping. Learning to distinguish between these sounds would be useful )
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Old 14-02-2011
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cheers all

i can confirm that the car was running on short but wet grass and was spinning around quite a bit - i cant see that helping at all!

parts are on order so ill report findings in a couple of weeks!
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