Caster S10b

[TheReferee]

Joe will be driving the caster 4WD next season, so i thought a few build pictures. not sure how this works so might be a few teething issues on the pictures
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exciting box shot!!

[TheReferee]

well that worked, so i will continue later

[TheReferee]

Why the caster?
having competed for the last two seasons with the BMAX, it was getting a bit tired and we had a choice of buying a new BMAX or looking at something else.

at the Kidderminster MAMS meeting we saw the caster and thought it looked promising, a chat with the guy racing it(sorry didn't get your name) and a good fondle of his car gave us something to think about on the way home.

did some research on the internet talked to Answer rc the distributers of caster in the Uk, did a bit more research and placed an order.

It is available in 3 versions. a brushed RTR, a brushless RTR and the alloy pro kit. general consensus was the RTR was all plastic and too flexible whilst the pro was all alloy and too stiff!. however all parts are interchangeable and the way to go was an alloy kit with a plastic chassis.

there are some RTR features of the pro kit. dogbone rear driveshaft and centre drive shafts, however an upgrade kit to change these to the more usual CVD's was available.
there was also some issues with the slipper and diff bolts.

the pro kit comes with pre assembled diffs, but in our kit we received the upgraded gears,thrust balls and rear CVD driveshafts.

what we decided to do was build the kit box standard and then document the changes to the car to go racing.
so on with the build.

all the parts bagged and ready for assembly.
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start with the chassis and attach front bulkhead,motor mount and rear brace.IMGP3575.jpgIMGP3574.jpgIMGP3577.jpg

All the crews are good quality hex head and all were attached using loctite.

diff cases are the same front and rear just add spacers for the rear one.
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the diffs were put inplace and shimmed as required, we have not received the CVD centre shafts yet so we are building with the dogbone setup, no grease in the gearbox yet as we will be rebuilding them with the upgraded gears and ceramic ball later.

attach shock tower to gearcase and bolt down with the ball stud carriers

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shiney!!

[TheReferee]

on to the steering.
a bag of bits.
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steering parts laid out
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and attached

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at this point i was going to attach the top decks.
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however mr machinist obviously went to lunch and left this bit.
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not a big deal 5 minutes with the dremel and sorted, well actually as the dremel was flat it had to wait a bit.

so onto the steering hubs etc all alloy and very nice fits.
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attached to wishbones and front brace fitted.
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rear hubs same quality
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at this point the dremel was up and running so top deck adjusted and fitted.
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almost a roller

[Holeshot]

Nice pics/build. This buggy is under-rated. Really nice looking chassis.

[Rodrego]

I have a Caster S10b too. It's a good sold (infact bullett proof) car, but is a cheaper version of the Hot Bodies Cyclone D4. If you go on-line and look at the old Hot Bodies site you'll see quite a few similarities between this car and the D4 Cyclone.

I'm not knocking it, just pointing out that it's not a completely new car. Just HPI re-realising it under a different brand/diguise

I was looking at running mine up north, but have decided to concentrate on 2wd. Think I'll be putting mine up for sale shortly.

PS: Have you rebuilt your diffs yet? I understand that the D4 locking nut assembly is a must!

[pjhibb]

hi was wondering i just bought my first radio controlled car castor s10b the front cvd drive shaft has broken away from the drive cup so the wheels not turning looks like its a pin thats missing have u got a picture of a the part or name of the part i need to fix it with i have circled the parts in my instruction book that i think i need. Any help would be great thanks peter.

[audriusv]

I do not know is there CVD Joint + Set Screw for front CVDs... Pin part number is "SK101" (for all CVD's). And there is full set of front CVD "SK102-A Front CVD Set". You have to look exactly for "SK102-A", not "SK102" (it is only shaft). I will ask Caster Racing for CVD Joint + Set Screw part number and post back.

[ADW]

Originally Posted by pjhibb

hi was wondering i just bought my first radio controlled car castor s10b the front cvd drive shaft has broken away from the drive cup so the wheels not turning looks like its a pin thats missing have u got a picture of a the part or name of the part i need to fix it with i have circled the parts in my instruction book that i think i need. Any help would be great thanks peter.

Did you get part number for part? Who did you order it from?
I'm looking for one also.
Rgs,
A

[audriusv]

Part number is SK132 CVD Joint+Set Screw (2pc).

[markymark6183]

what set ups do you guys use i.e what holes in the shock towers for loose surfaces ???

[whizzy]

what set up do you run on astro any other problems you are finding with them

[ADW]

Originally Posted by markymark6183

what set ups do you guys use i.e what holes in the shock towers for loose surfaces ???

Hi,
I drilled out 2 extra 1.5mm holes in front and rear pistons. (Black 2 hole, now 4 hole) 25wt in rear and 30 in front. Losi lime green springs rear and blue on front. Polished shafts. This seem to help the handling over bumpy track.
A few practice laps with the Caster S10B
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k8Ku3IZfvIM