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#1
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hi guys could do with a bit of help.
my rear diff on my 511 continues to give me problems, slipping under acceleration. I have fitted new tamiya diff plates, ceramic diff balls and new white pulley.also fitted a new thrust race and nut and bolt. This time I also bought tamiya VG diff plate grease part no 42170. I have built many ball diffs in the years i have been racing but not come across this problem as bad. As I understand that the diff plate grease goes only on the side of the diff plates that sit on the outdrives? this is to stop slippage? and normal diff ball grease on the balls and otherside of plates.? I also have trimmed the diff pulley high spots off( which sit next to the diff ball holes) in attempt to get the diff plates to sit tighter against the balls. this has not seemed to work either. Am i doing something wrong.? to try and solve the problem I going to buy new diff outdrive part no 51286. but can not find a shop with them in stock. does anybody have any spare ones for sale or know where i can get them? thanks mike |
#2
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tighten it!
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__________________
Tamiya ~ Mugen Seiki ~ Viper RC ~ Pro-Line ~ Xpert Servos ~ BEAT ~ Protek RC ~ Amain Hobbies ~ LMR ~ Ultimate Racing ~ Nitrolux ~ Nibbo Designs ~ Stickit1 Racing ~ The World Famous TFR! ![]() |
#3
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Odd, it shouldnt do that. Tighten it so you cant turn the pulley by hand after sliding two allen keys in the outdrive slots, but nothing more. I'm using geardiffs with great satisfaction (I hate rebuildings diffs all the time), but the standard ones should work just fine. They wont last long though, especially on high grip surfaces.
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#4
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You can get these so tight as they will not work as a diff.... Is your slipper adjusted ok, not too tight as to make the diffs slip?
__________________
~ICON-RC~ATOMIC CARBON~LMR~TONISPORT~NUCLEAR RC~
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#5
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Yeah what Griff says, occasionally i have to retighten my rear diff too. To check your slipper tension, hold onto left rear wheel, hold spur with thumb then try and turn the right rear wheel forward. You should see the slipper plate spinning when you apply moderate force. If it isnt then your diff isnt tight enough. Or your slipper is set too tight. Tighten the diff 1/4 turn, back the slipper off 1/4 turn and retry. When its set right the rear diff should still feel smooth. I then set my front diff a touch tighter than the rear. Dialed !
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#6
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Alternatively do what I do and "warm up" the diffs before races
![]() I wouldn't recommend it, but with the diffs set how I like them I often get slip, I do some hard starts on high grip bits of the track before the race starts and that seems to sort it! Plus it freaks Northy out... ![]() Your right on the grease by the way, the plate grease only goes outdrive side!
__________________
Dave "Amish FJ" Gibson RB Products ~ Yokomo Nuclear RC ~ Xpert ~ Hacker |
#7
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Maybe you need the nuclear rc diff covers once youve sorted your diff out. Me i just tightend it up and used a kyosho screw and nut as its stronger.
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www.kamtec.co.uk www.fibre-lyte.co.uk answer-rc.com/uk/en/ Answer UK team driver Designer of the Lazer ZX/ZXR carbon fibre tub chassis Designer of the Lazer ZXRS |
#8
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and greases
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__________________
CML DISTRIBUTION -SOUTHWESTRC -HPI - RUDEBITS - MR O FOAMS - LMR - ATOMIC CARBON -STARREGORSEHOLIDAYPARK - ICON RC
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#9
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thanks for all advice its all good, learnt a few things about bedding the diff in. so going to rebuild once more and follow all your advice.
just one quick question. i just want to make extra sure. the diff screw and thrust race should go in to the female shorter outdrive and the spring and nut should fit in to the longer male out drive. is this correct? thanks once again for all your help lad. |
#10
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Spring and nut in the long side, screw and thrust race in the short side.
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dragon paints : team tekin : fusion hobbies :SCHUMACHER RACING : Nuclear R/C for all my sticky and slippery stuff - if it needs gluing or lubing, Nuclear RC is the man! |
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