Roll pins , is there a stronger alternative?

[traffman]

As above , i keep bending mine after installing them on the car.

I heard there improved on the newer kits , is this true?

[BostonNelson]

I've been there myself. The newer batches have solid pins. Part no TD310135. And at the same time change the wheel distance bushing to the updated part TD712003 if not already done.

Edit: These parts are for the rear wheels.

[traffman]

Aaah thank you sir.

[Gonzo]

I use steel ones, made from a L-shaped hex driver.
In the back the same lenght as original.
In the front I use 20mm length (I have no faith in the deeper hex rims either). I modified my rims with dremel and put in 2 little screws to avoid that the pin can slide out. Works perfect, and no rims with round hex's since then.

[Stretch]

One of the rear ones in my 2010 spec kit has snapped. I have yet to even run it...

[Andyp]

i have not had this problem but have noticed them being bent slightly witch i guess will weaken and snap so i have changed them , as mentioned in another post if you put some shims on the drive shaft inbetween the hub and the gold cone type washer so as it pushes the washer tight ish to the drive pin it will mean the wheel when tightened will push against the gold washer instead of putting stress on the pin . i have never had a problem since!!

[photocycler]

Originally Posted by Gonzo

I use steel ones, made from a L-shaped hex driver.
In the back the same lenght as original.
In the front I use 20mm length (I have no faith in the deeper hex rims either). I modified my rims with dremel and put in 2 little screws to avoid that the pin can slide out. Works perfect, and no rims with round hex's since then.

can you post a pic of this mod?

[BostonNelson]

I've been using these since april and they haven't snapped or bent at all so far.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-17x11mm-10Pcs

[Gonzo]

Originally Posted by photocycler

can you post a pic of this mod?

Some verrrry low quality pics of the mod:

Inside view:



1: dremel (disc or drill) a gap at both sides of hex, in the middle of a straight part.
Wisely choose which sides you will, compared to the spokes.
2: drill little holes at 21mm+1 screwheaddiameter apart
3: screw in the screws , but not all the way down, leave 2 or 3 mm clearance between head and rim
4: fill up with 2 component glue, and lots of it, so the screw stays in place, and fill up all the way to the hex. No glue needed in the hex itself or 5 mm behind the screw.
5: wait 24 hours
6: free up the gap again in the glue using a drill that you use as "machining tool"
7: cut off the screw-part that sticks out at the outisde of the rim using dremel-disc

The 2 component glue you see on the picture survived already several aceton-sessions. It becomes ugly brown, but survives!

Outside view (so you just see the cut off screw ends)



The 20 mm steel pin made from a L-shaped hex driver: