Help with wandering DB01R

[carnage]

Hi
I thought I'd ask the experts
I've been running my db01r for 8 or so months and have had centering issues for 5 of those months
Problem in point form as it's easier for some one educated in Maggie Thatchers England
. Steering continuially needs to be "trimmed" during a run seems to bea variation of 2-3 clicks
New servo (Savox)
new radio old Hitec pro car, new radio Core rc
tried toe in
tried shimming out slop, tried leaving in slop
steering loose and free of binding
really losing confidence when runniong the car, aparft from that, I love it,
jus need to be able to go in a straight line lap after lap
look forward to your thoughts
Steve

[DCM]

Worn servo saver splines, so the servo saver is jumping on the splines, replace it with either the Tamiya High Torque or a Kimbrough servo saver, or if you are brave, a servo arm.

[mattybucks]

and if it's not the servo horn it's time for a new servo, or at least a set of gears.

[carnage]

thanks for the replies but not the problem, I'm not running a servo saver and the deflection is very small compared to a whole tooth jump on the spline, runs off course by no more than 1 metre over a 10 metre run.
also brand new servo, 3rd servo I've tried
cheers Steve

[Pops]

Maybe the ballcups jump the threads on a crash...Mine did and only small taps on rope! Some sort of tollerance issue so i changed all the ballcups and it stayes trimmed even after my big crashes

[Dyna]

I might be barking up the wrong tree, but it couldnt be the TX/RX throwing the steering out by going 'out of tune' could it ? I know youve said youve tried a couple of diferent sets but it strikes me as a electrical problem, as you have to trim it a few clicks during runs.

All the likely mechanical suspects have been suggested and you've said you've tried them all, including i presume making sure the shocks & suspension arent binding, all suspension parts are physically ok with no hidden cracks opening during running ( i had that on a RB5 and took me a while to spot it ) and all the car settings are true, so that's the likely culprit to my mind... Id try another completely different RX & TX & then a different servo to make 100% sure.

[carnage]

Originally Posted by Dyna

I might be barking up the wrong tree, but it couldnt be the TX/RX throwing the steering out by going 'out of tune' could it ? I know youve said youve tried a couple of diferent sets but it strikes me as a electrical problem, as you have to trim it a few clicks during runs.

All the likely mechanical suspects have been suggested and you've said you've tried them all, including i presume making sure the shocks & suspension arent binding, all suspension parts are physically ok with no hidden cracks opening during running ( i had that on a RB5 and took me a while to spot it ) and all the car settings are true, so that's the likely culprit to my mind... Id try another completely different RX & TX & then a different servo to make 100% sure.

On that note,
The deflection is proportionate to the steering curve profile on my old Hitec radio, ie
sensitive steering (around neutral) = bad fault deflection,
insensitive steering = slight fault deflection
this led me to buying a new Radio/RX combo, nowthe problem is back
What are the odds of 2 radios built 3 years apart by different manufacturers having the same fault
Steve

[fastinfastout]

it may be an issue with the tamiya ball cups.

its a common problem with tamiya and durango.

the turnbuckles 'jump' thread/s unknowingly after a hard jump etc.

its a common mod, to get hpi or AE tc5 ball studs and losi/rpm ball cups.

[carnage]

Originally Posted by fastinfastout

it may be an issue with the tamiya ball cups.

its a common problem with tamiya and durango.

the turnbuckles 'jump' thread/s unknowingly after a hard jump etc.

its a common mod, to get hpi or AE tc5 ball studs and losi/rpm ball cups.

yeah, I heard that as well but surely if it jumps 1 thread it jumps them all, meaning every thread will jump 1 thread causeing a completely stripped ball cup, I've got a set of RB5 ballcups, might try them
cheers
Steve

[sosidge]

Servo mounted firmly? The Durga is a bit under-provided in the servo mount stakes, would be easy for it to slide a little side to side in use. Try a layer of servo tape under the servo to hold it in place.

[carnage]

Originally Posted by sosidge

Servo mounted firmly? The Durga is a bit under-provided in the servo mount stakes, would be easy for it to slide a little side to side in use. Try a layer of servo tape under the servo to hold it in place.

sounds good, I'll try that
cheers

[Pops]

Does it always need trimming in the same direction and by the same ammount...My ballcups only moved slightly each time and never completely stripped.. the only way i found the problem was when i tried to push a deformed front tyre back into shape and heared a click... next quali the car kept bearing the one way

[carnage]

Originally Posted by Pops

Does it always need trimming in the same direction and by the same ammount...My ballcups only moved slightly each time and never completely stripped.. the only way i found the problem was when i tried to push a deformed front tyre back into shape and heared a click... next quali the car kept bearing the one way

it needs trimming in both directiongs by the same amount, I have noticed a slight relationship that after I turn right it steers to the left and after steering to the right it steers to the left
thanks
Steve

[peetbee]

I've changed my servo posts to B4 ones after a similar experience and problem went away. Like you I wasn't running a servo saver so I think the standard servo mounts would flex instead.

[Pops]

If the steering mechanism is nice and free with the horn unpopped at all suspension levels then surely its a centreing issue with the servo?.. dont the free moving digital ones keep centering and adjusting for as long as its powered up..Think i read that somewhere