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#1
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Some things to consider:
* this is an attempt to write a build-manual of Fabs RB5 CMS * I am not native English-speaking, learned my English at school .. and was not the best student. * I'm not familiar with all the correct rc-naming as I consider myself still rather noob * I'm not the best pilot neither (see previous point), so my knowledge of setting up a car is minimal to medium. * I' m writing this in an attempt to help people out with building this kit, as Fabs has not found the time yet to take some adequate pictures or write a build-manual. * such a build-manual is needed as some parts do need some special care * as some parts were not delivered AS Fabs ordered them * I'm writing this on a laptop, on a warm summer-day, the kids playing in the little pool, me, dad, sipping from a lovelu fresh Duvel (*). (Life can be good ![]() * ... (and all other things that might give me an excuse to make mistakes) ==> please correct me when I make a mistake, (but please in a positive way, thankyou) I'll write this in multiple posts in stead of one LAAAARGE one, so that this will be easier to mod if needed. (*) A Flemish beer which you MUST have tried before you can consider yourself a beer-connaisseur. The car .. as it is suppose to be: one of the first kits assembled, Fabs own, and which was later on driver passed on to a local-good-driver to test and demonstrate the possibilities of the car:
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aka Ludo |
#2
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First, a situation-report:
I allready had a RB5, originally from nathan Ralls. That car had allready some modifications done compared to the original RB5, but is not 100% the same as the latest edition. The RB5 CMS can be build, starting from every RB5-car, AFAIK (... but I'm not certain if the latest RB5-edition uses the same spur-shaft?) Fabs designed this kit, wanting to make a mid-motor-version of the RB5. The RB5 is a very good 2WD electro 1/10-buggy. He build himself a prototype, tested it (with the help of some good friends) it turned out to have more steering then the Losi XX-CR2, but being more forgiving then the Asso B4 and GREAT to drive... and he made a batch of 30 kits. All chassis are numbered and it is intended to be a limited kit! Unfortunately, Fabs had to discover that some of the parts were not made as he ordered them. As an example: some of the screw-holes were designed to be 3.2 mm diameter ... but we discovered they had to be drilled out as a 3MM-screw would not go through. Some holes were intended to be counter-sunk, but weren't, ... So this explains why, when building this kit, some of the parts did not fit 100%, but this was always resolved with a little bit of filing or re-drilling. This also explaines why Fabs was not able to ship all kits immediatly. He will be (or has allready) re-finishing all the parts that need to, to be certain that they actually fit 100%. aaannd, I personally think that it is better to have some parts that are a bit hard to assemble at first then parts that are to loose. I met Fabs online first, IRL at the 2010 EIR-race in Charleroi, and we kept in contact over the internet. As far as the kit concernes: Fabs told me about a race on a local (Paris) track and I decided to just drive all the way over to his place, meeting him at the track of Maison-Alfort on saturday, pick up the kit, build the kit on site, and race it on sunday. This all happened as planned, except for the raining and the fact we did not have some cover and were intereupted twice, having to quickly pack everything and hide under a tree, and to re-start the build. I tried to take some pics, and did so, but I'm not a very good photographer, so the pics are not the usual oOple-quality (sorry) (but hey, better then nothing, nah ![]() The track @ Maison Alfort, France: Fabs gave me a cardboard-box, containing all the parts. I started with dis-assembling my RB5 and did build the kit with Fabs directions. I'll try to copy them over here. ! You don't need anything else then: * your RB5-car * Fabs CMS-kit * two extra bearings * 4 extra button-head 3X12 screws (for the rear shock tower) * the usual tools, greases, ... * ... and maybe a fresh Duvel, ... but that's optional I guess ![]()
__________________
aka Ludo |
#3
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Nice work, Ludo! Keep it coming!
(Next time I order a beer on a bar it will be a Duvel ![]()
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Schumacher KF | K1 Aero | RWS RZ6R |MiniZ MR-03 | Orion R10 esc | LRP motors | Orion 90c lipos Rusti Design - Awesome custom stickers and cool stuff My trader feedback |
#4
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allrighty, part 3 ...
the parts on the table (as i said, sorry for the bad quality. The parts are not all very clear) the gear-box (4-gears), which seemed made out of a strange kind of plastic ... yup, my kit is N° 5 ![]() ![]() FAST-racing stands for the names of Fabian and one of his best friends Albo (Fabian Alban (corrected) Simonini ...). I later dicovered that they have more then one prototype on the drawing table !! (to be continued...!) ! However ... chassis n° 0005? ... I don't think there will ever be made 1000 kits ![]() ![]() back on topic: the build .. mounting metal parts on metal ... so I immediately did put the thread-lock on the table. Fabs assured me that it isn't necessary but better safe then sorry ![]() FIRST: mountin the Side-parts of the chassis. !1: you don't need all the screwholes to be used. In an attempt to gain some more flex, only 8 bolts are used. Two holes per side are left unused. See pics the most important picture on this stage:
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aka Ludo |
#5
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Part 4:
Mounting the T-bar: This part is made of anodised stainless steel, so very strong. I think it might bend but I don't see it ever break. (the chassis is anodised aliminium). This T-bar is mounted with some provided screws (short 3mm ones) and the two "T-bar-mounting-plates". Again, I used Thread-lock (but you don't need to, says fabs). On this picture, the left side is bolted on: to be honest ... this is one of the parts that we discovered not being flawlesly made. Fabs did a minor filing to make it fit the chassis. aaaand then the right part was bolted: which gave us:
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aka Ludo |
#6
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part 5:
The front end .... well, it's very simple ... just disassemble the front end of the RB5, (keep the screws on the build-table, all screws from the RB5 are re-used on the CMS!) ... and then mount it onto the CMS-chassis, with the aid of some "front-end-mounting-poles" and long screws. A quick picture of the bottem .. (oops, I seem to have forgotten a screw)
__________________
aka Ludo |
#7
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![]() Quote:
Great job guys. ![]() Tim. |
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