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#1
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My neighbor let me have some fun with his GT2!!
![]() Motor plate is all hand cut out of 1/8" (3mm) aluminum. Certainly not as clean as CNC, but I think it's pretty good for hand cut. The support brackets have some cleaning up to do. Ideally I would just remake them out of thicker metal so I could tap threads right into the aluminum and lose the locknuts. Batteries will be saddle packs that slide in from the side under a top deck where the esc and Rx will be located on. The standard size steering servo will stay. For now the motor is a crappy Chinese thing... I got bored and 'opened her up' a bit. ![]() Jon |
#2
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Hehehe! Way to go!
Out with the Nitro in with the new. Brushless is deffffinitely what it's all about now. Great job on the cut-outs there! Personally, I would recommend a single screw 'pivot' hole and radius slot, due to the extra power. I reckon you've built a wheelie monster there! Motor nice and high, Lipo batteries to keep the front light, job done! ![]() I converted a Hot Bodies Lightning Stadium as soon as it arrived from good ole ebay. I've never used nitro, never will. ![]()
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RC10 SAY IT AGAIN! ![]() |
#3
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I tried to do the radius slot at first, but without a mill, it was impossible to keep the cuts clean.
That particular motor isn't too intense. It is a 540 'L' size, or ~8mm longer than most car motors, but is about even in power. My neighbor won't be racing, strictly bashing, so we might go a little bigger and do a HUGE helicopter outrunner with a spur gear for a pinion. ![]() ![]() On a side note, I don't get why the gas trannies are built so much stronger than electric. Electric cars have way more torque... ![]() Jon |
#4
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That's pretty cool. I found this thread during a search cause I was thinking about doing this to my GT2. What pitch do you need for the pinion? 32P?
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#5
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Yep! 32p pinion.
Or you can use a B4 sppur. They are the same size and fitment. ![]() Jon |
#6
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Thought the B4 was 48dp???
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