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#1
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Not usefull, but good looking
![]() Epoxy for the front plate and plastic for the rear plate.
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Tamiya F103 - Hobbywing 13.5 - Hobbywing 1S Tamiya TRF201 - PRT HS 10.5 - Tekin RS Pro http://rctouch.over-blog.com/ |
#2
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Its always struck me why companys have never done this in the first place? To me it looks very good, less metirial used ect...
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#3
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How did you use epoxy and plastic?
On a side note, the fish eye lens makes your camber and toe settings look absolutely ridiculous. |
#4
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Thx Gary
![]() j.m : I use plastic for the rear plate, and epoxy for the front plate. I'll make test, and if it's good, I'll try to do it in carbon fiber. And yes, the fish eye make my car very strange ![]()
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Tamiya F103 - Hobbywing 13.5 - Hobbywing 1S Tamiya TRF201 - PRT HS 10.5 - Tekin RS Pro http://rctouch.over-blog.com/ |
#5
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You can try this for the strap:
http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...2.0MM_Thick%29 |
#6
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thanks for the link j.m. !
__________________
Tamiya F103 - Hobbywing 13.5 - Hobbywing 1S Tamiya TRF201 - PRT HS 10.5 - Tekin RS Pro http://rctouch.over-blog.com/ |
#7
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I'm a newbie here, so excuse my question; Is there any added longitudial strength/stiffness in the chassis by having a bar running from the rear shock tower to the front battery posts? Is this why?
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#8
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![]() Quote:
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#9
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F the battery strap isn't securely fastened (screws), then it's not going to add a noticeable amount of stiffness. The vertical rails on either side of the battery are more key to the chassis stiffness than anything.
Why don't manufacturers do this? Because when the cars were designed most people probably still used NiMh cells. A single thin strap isn't going to hold a 6 cell pack in, but works great for hardcase LiPos. Jon |
#10
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made one last night out of 2mm carbon fibre, my nimh stick pack fits nice and securely will see how a lipo goes in when i get some
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