Make my own pan car?

[j.m.]

Anybody know how I can get a 1/10 pan car front end without buying all the individual AE bits and spending as much as a car by itself? I'd just be doing sport running, nothing top of the line needed. I was thinking I could just use a rear axle and bulkheads from an existing car.

Jon

[terry.sc]

Rather than buying the parts separately, Associated sell the dynamic strut front end as a complete kit. The 1/12th scale front end is part number 4401, the 1/10th scale front end is 8400. The difference between the two kits are an extra pair of spacer blocks in the 1/10th kit and different length turnbuckles. If you want the new R5 front end you will have to piece it together from parts.

An alternative is the CRC Pro Strut front end.

Built one myself years ago
http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_m...d=5069&sid=297

[j.m.]

Cool, thanks!

I was going to use this for the chassis:
http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...2.0MM_Thick%29

And do a dual deck layout similar to yours, but instead have a hardcase 2s lipo across the width of the car right in front of the rear wheels.

How does your rear pod attach to the main chassis? Are you using a t-plate?

So what to use for a rear axle... Buy the hubs n such and mount them on a carbon tube of the appropriate diameter? Or is there more to it than that?

Thanks again!!!
Jon

[ClydeBuilt]

Hi Terry...

A few of us were looking over a 'mardave' I bought off the bay, bit of '57 though, half dave half pan car...looks like someones had a go at building their own pan car like JM here.

Chassis plate is like old electronics copper sided board, mount is machined alloy and rear wheels are as wide as a pan car. It has a diff but no suspension and front ends like a ministock, but with castor built into the axle beam ?

Theres a slot machined into the rear of the mount, sort of like you would mount a wheelie bar ??? and at the front of it theres a ledge for electics on top and batt underneath....weird bugger !

[terry.sc]

Originally Posted by ClydeBuilt

Chassis plate is like old electronics copper sided board, mount is machined alloy and rear wheels are as wide as a pan car. It has a diff but no suspension and front ends like a ministock, but with castor built into the axle beam ?

Theres a slot machined into the rear of the mount, sort of like you would mount a wheelie bar ??? and at the front of it theres a ledge for electics on top and batt underneath....weird bugger !

It might be scratch built, but it sounds like one of several early 1/12th scale race chassis from the early 80s, not a Mardave at all, like these: example 1, example 2, example 3, example 4.

Got any pictures, I might be interested in it.

[j.m.]

Any of those designs would actually be perfect for me, im not going to be racing competitively... I don't really think i'd need an elaborate rear suspension.

I also found this:
http://www.rjspeed.com/ (on the right side, 3. 2 pan car)

Which is almost so inexpensive i'd be better off just buying one...

Jon

[terry.sc]

Originally Posted by j.m.

How does your rear pod attach to the main chassis? Are you using a t-plate?

Yes, I have a T piece between the cells. It is bolted to the rear pod lower plate using spacers, and uses a pair of associated pan car ball pivots on the chassis so it can move.

So what to use for a rear axle... Buy the hubs n such and mount them on a carbon tube of the appropriate diameter? Or is there more to it than that?

Bolting the hubs to a carbon tube will leave you with no differential and awful handling. Mine uses a Trinity rear axle and diff, the left side diff drive plate is built into the axle and the Trinity axle assembly was used as the spacing was better for me. The left side hub was custom turned on a lathe to get the rear width right.

Depending on whether you want to build a T piece or a link rear suspension, I suggest you look through the Team Associated manuals to get familiar with the design of these cars.
The older T-piece RC10L3
The latest link RC10R5 and exploded views