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#1
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Having never glued cells together in the past, I thought I would make the effort this year. Will PVA (white glue used by joiners) suffice?
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#2
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probably won't hold that great.
I use araldite rapid, it's not as stupidly strong as normal araldite and sets with a slight flex to it. just mix it up and run a thin bead along each cell and press together. Just strap in the car for a couple of hours for it to set!
__________________
4wd - X4TE 2wd - X2C (Mad Rat passed down to son!) Ansmann Racing UK RIP - MicroTech Racing Trader Feedback |
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#3
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Quote:
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__________________
Who am I fooling? I love oOple
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#4
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as a thought, why not run insulation tape or simmalar around the outside of your cells.
That works too. and stops em shorting
__________________
Who am I fooling? I love oOple
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#5
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Isn't that going to stop your cells sitting in the chassis properly Ben, or do you mean the ends??
I've never bothered Chris, if your cells are strapped into your car OK you shouldn't have a problem, unless their not supported properly during storage?? If you what something to do you can paint a few bodyshells for me and get the electrics into my car for the regional??
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#6
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Is it that obvious Im done preparing for Bury??? haha.
Anyway, you've seen the state of my bodyshells and wiring. I'll just leave the cells alone then, Ive never had a problem with them before. |
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#7
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Why do you glue them, there is no way they can come out of a modern off road car, i can understand doing it when i raced on road and the cells were taped in
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#8
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Just looking for any last minute prep I could do before the weekend, Ive decided against glueing now.
I find I ahve to use cheaper, thinner battery bars when using the cells in the B4 to prevent them being too wide for the chassis, maybe that says more about my soldering than the battery bars though. |
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#9
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I have glued oen pack of mine but if you use good quality flux and good solder and there built properly and you use good battery bars ( May i suggest the much more battery bars) you should have a problem.
A
__________________
Ashley Williams I always thought by 2013 we would have flying cars, but we have got blankets with sleeves! |
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#10
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if you find the need to glue cells the best thing to use would be shoe-goo or rtv silicone sealant. the advantage of both of these is they are flexible and can be pealed off without damaging the heatshrink should the need arise.
if using the silicone ensure it is the none conduvtive variety something loctite tempflex or dow-corning 3145. Some kitchen / bathroom sealants may also be suitable. |
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#11
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Shoe Goo is awesome stuff, it's up there with duck tape and fender mender for "must have bodge it kit"
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#12
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I sleeve my cells in 37mm x 50mm x 0.15mm thick clear heatshrink then spot them with cyano to ensure correct alignment. Then I use a gap filling, UV curing adhesive between the cells. This is stronger than anything. Much More Racing straight and right angled battery bars complete the job with Corally 4mm tubes. If anyone wants clear heatshrink then PM me, i take paypal
![]() The advantage of pre-sleeving is it allows you to strip back down to the original cell if you ever need to, it also protects the sleeve, especially on IB's which have thinner printed sleeve than the GP and Sanyo products. |
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