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#1
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Does anyone's rear diff make a weird clicking noise when you spin the wheels?
My esc keeps jumping up to 160-170 after 10 minutes on the track. I have dropped pinions and raised pinions and it is still the same result...hot esc, cool motor. I rebuilt the read diff and I still have the noise. I think something back there is binding and causing the esc to overheat. I cant figure out what it is. Any suggestions?? |
#2
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why are you running for 10mins??? any esc will heat up to that level after 10mins of running.
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Mattys the driver,my names carl
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#3
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#4
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Do the diffs feel like they are binding? Also,when I first built mine I put a bit too much thread lock on the screws when putting the drive-shafts together. This made them sticky and clicky. Remove the diffs and the drive-shafts and check that they are free moving!
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Associated SC8 - Hyper 10SC Nitro Mugen MBX4 RR - Titan 29 Custom Kyosho Assault - Losi XXXT http://feedback.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayIS...ab=AllFeedback ![]() |
#5
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mine is a free as owt, just has a noise which is understandable dut to alloy chassis transmitting down it
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MBModels - Schumacher Racing - Vapextech.co.uk - MRT - Savox - SMD |
#6
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They do feel like they are binding, when I twist it will spin, click then spin freely, then slow down and click again. There is no noise coming from the front.
The rear wheels dont spin together when it is lifted off the ground either. If I life the suspension arm they will though. I cant raise the droop in that arw as I only received one droop screw ![]() |
#7
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This is what happens when I spin the wheels.....http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-FWsfH4zT3M
This is what happens when I spin the wheels using the drive shaft....http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mqmdHyfHBfE That noise cant be normal ![]() ![]() |
#8
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ur going to has to strip the rear diff/drive shafts and check em
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MBModels - Schumacher Racing - Vapextech.co.uk - MRT - Savox - SMD |
#9
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Thats not normal; strip and check your diff!
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Associated SC8 - Hyper 10SC Nitro Mugen MBX4 RR - Titan 29 Custom Kyosho Assault - Losi XXXT http://feedback.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayIS...ab=AllFeedback ![]() |
#10
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It is if something broken sadly, just a case of find out what has gone wrong and replace the part.
Let us know what is was though. Col.
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TRF 501x - Tamiyafied Madrat - Bograt Rc10 FT T4 RC18T Lunchbox Gold X-6 squared Lrp, Novak, Robitronic, Ko Propo, Ezrun , Trakpower ,Team Scream, Demon, Microtech, Dms, Good old Jezza, Je-Spares, Bolton Model Mart, My Feedback http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=25199 |
#11
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Take off the camber links and check the wheel bearings spin free
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~ICON-RC~ATOMIC CARBON~LMR~TONISPORT~NUCLEAR RC~
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#12
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Trap are you getting excessive heat while just plodding around the house or a short track?
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#13
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My esc gets up to 150 after 3 minutes of driving on the street |
#14
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I'm no Rango expert but try the same test as your vid with the wheels removed see if its binding then, if it is remove the driv shafts and try again. if you get the same effect remove the front diff and vice versa until you find where the binding is coming from.
Its would be a process of elimination I would have thought. Hope you find it! Mike
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Mike Baldwin - Caldicot |
#15
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Are you getting full throttle for a few seconds?
The binding is from the droop thats normal. Don't worry about that and the clicking is your pinion gear on your spur its too loose. |
#16
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My durango took a couple of meetings to free up and make sure you dont tighten the front wheels too much and crush the crunch spacer a bit and make the bearings bind, they are only soft.
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