Hot Bodies D8 Build

[Marvin]

I thought I'd introduce my D8 build. My main objectives with this were:

• Get run times of >20 minutes on one battery.
• Have a safe handling car
• Have good weight distribution

So, considering with my last car, I got 11-12 minutes (say 11.5) out of a 4350mAh 14.8V pack (64.38Wh), I needed a battery change to finish a 20 minute final. So, in total, for 23 minutes, that's 128.76Wh needed.

I decided to use two 18.5V packs in parallel (at 61.05Wh each) for a total of 122.1Wh. Theoretically, at least, I should be good for 21.8 minutes run time. (122.1/128.76 = 0.94827, 0.94827 * 23 = 21.8 minutes).

[Marvin]

Here's one big pile of stuff, about to become a car!


That's:

• D8 Kit
• 2 Battery Trays from RC-Monster
• 2 18.5V 3300mAh Hyperion 25C Lipos
• 1 MMM ESC
• 1 Neu 1509 2Y Motor
• RC-Monster Motor Mount
• Futaba BLS-451 Servo
• Tekno-RC D8 Conversion Kit

The quality of the machining on the Tekno-RC chassis is very good, in fact, it's not dissimilar to the stock one.


Anyways, let's crack on with the build:
The top-down servo saver is a nice feature, and the steering posts key into the chassis, so you can remove the screw from whichever end you want, rather than it choosing for you. Otherwise it's standard fare.

Another pic of that quality machining. Note that the side guards don't use nuts for the screws to bite into - so no losing them in maintenance, though if one strips, it's a new side guard .

I kind of forgot to take any pics of the diff, but it's all pretty normal in there anyway. Though the pinion and ring gears are helical cut.


Steering arrangement is a 'backwards' C-Hub - the idea is lifted straight from the smaller scales. All plastic here, but it seems strong and durable.

Wishbones have webbing which keeps the suspension components a bit cleaner.

All put together, note captured hinge pins.

Nice thick alloy braces, again with captured hinge pins.

Jumping forward a bit, here's the centre diff put together, the machining of the RC-Monster motor mount is exceptional as always. Unlike my cut out for the spur gear *laughs nervously*.


A mock-up of the layout:

Then, to be honest, I forgot about pictures and stuff , so the next ones are of the finished article:

It's a little like spaghetti junction in there to be honest...

...but it's all needed.


Now, I'm sure you're wondering about balance and the overall weight. Truth is, this is pretty heavy, it's a touch over 4kg, which is approaching Truggy weight, and it has a rear weight bias. Though it has to be said that a heavier car does normally mean it's more stable - which helps with this much power on tap . Also, the rear weight bias helps rear end grip - something you're always after at the track I race at.

I'll leave you at peace from my ceaseless waffling with some pics of the bodyshell... Enjoy!

[mark christopher]

you can simply cut odd the lugs on the side plates and fit nuts!!

[Marvin]

True enough!

I don't have too much of a problem with it though. I thought I'd just point it out anyway.

[mark christopher]

i have one and love it , also just build a D8T, which is frickin hugge!!

have you painted your shell on the outside?

[Marvin]

No. If you're wondering how the pictures got there, it's XXX-Main picture glue, and they are on the inside, as all paint should be too. The main colour of the shell is Tamiya Gun-Metal, so doesn't really show up.