"Must have" parts and "nice to have" parts?

[joffacn]

Hi
This would need some work but ...
Could there be a list of the parts (and part numbers ) for the parts that should be installed from the start when building.
This would be a HUGE help when buying a Kit and getting all the bits together. Save time and a heap in shipping costs.

Must Have:
Diff balls
Thrust Balls
Shock towers
Shock seals
...
Nice to have:
?
Essential Spares:
Diff gears?
?

I guess this type of list is the same for most buggies. They all need some mods which are found by the drivers in the months after a model is released.

MAYBE it could be a Sticky in each buggy thread.

Thanks Jeff

[sosidge]

Get hold of a hex screw kit before building the car, it makes it a lot easier. Phillips are OK but don't stand up to repeated disassembly.

Other than that the car runs pretty well from the box.

The only spares I have broken (excluding freak big crashes) are front shock towers and the non-updated tower mounts. Probably worth having some knuckles and arms as well.

Nice options... well, pretty much everything on the list if money is no option!

[Balders]

An Absolute must for the ZX5 is the Kyosho Alum. Front Suspension Holder KYOLAW31.
Without this you'll be going through front bulkheads like they are going out of fashion.....

Also the Titanium screw kit from Speedtech is a great idea, saves stripping those phillips head screws, plus its lighter..

As for spares to have in the pitbox its always handy to have a spare KYOLA210 which is the front bulkhead set and a spare pair of suspension arms just in case.

The only other thing I've broken is the chassis, but that was due to me running out of talent, running a silly speed brushless motor and hitting a wall straight on..

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
http://petitions.pm.gov.uk/traveltax
[FONT='Verdana','sans-serif']The idea of tracking every vehicle at all times is sinister and wrong. Road pricing is already here with the high level of taxation on fuel. The more you travel - the more tax you pay.[/FONT]
[FONT='Verdana','sans-serif']It will be an unfair tax on those who live apart from families and poorer people who will not be able to afford the high monthly costs.[/FONT]
[FONT='Verdana','sans-serif']Please Mr Blair - forget about road pricing and concentrate on improving our roads to reduce congestion.[/FONT]

[jim76]

10 degree front hubs are pretty advisable, i find these improve the handling no end. worth getting a few sets and some spare king pins, as i have broken a couple and you can never find the king pin!

atomic carbon top deck and towers are nice but not a must.
the screws and diff balls are the main thing to replace from the word go, along with the alloy front brace.
associated blue turnbuckles are also a nice addition and are the same lengths.

[bert digler]

Originally Posted by jim76

10 degree front hubs are pretty advisable, i find these improve the handling no end. worth getting a few sets and some spare king pins, as i have broken a couple and you can never find the king pin!

atomic carbon top deck and towers are nice but not a must.
the screws and diff balls are the main thing to replace from the word go, along with the alloy front brace.
associated blue turnbuckles are also a nice addition and are the same lengths.

i run a plastic front shock tower plus a carbon its a big plus and everything else the lads have said is bang on

[SimonW]

I'm going to build up a plastic diff for the front, got some out-drive savers to fit as well gonna glue them in place and slap it in. Thats gonna save on rotating mass in the front end about 30g i estimate

[tty_wai]

Originally Posted by SimonW

I'm going to build up a plastic diff for the front, got some out-drive savers to fit as well gonna glue them in place and slap it in. Thats gonna save on rotating mass in the front end about 30g i estimate

so that will be a custom make front spool????

[omen1975]

Originally Posted by jim76

10 degree front hubs are pretty advisable, i find these improve the handling no end. worth getting a few sets and some spare king pins, as i have broken a couple and you can never find the king pin!

atomic carbon top deck and towers are nice but not a must.
the screws and diff balls are the main thing to replace from the word go, along with the alloy front brace.
associated blue turnbuckles are also a nice addition and are the same lengths.

I have had the same problem, keeping them king pins in seems impossible and when you loose one while racing its hard to know until you finally break the C hub from an akward landing. Been holding off on buying alloy knuckles as I cant seem to find them at a reasonable price, best price I've seen posted to Australia is $45 US (ouch). If only tamiya ones fitted

Omen1975

[jim76]

Originally Posted by omen1975

I have had the same problem, keeping them king pins in seems impossible and when you loose one while racing its hard to know until you finally break the C hub from an akward landing. Been holding off on buying alloy knuckles as I cant seem to find them at a reasonable price, best price I've seen posted to Australia is $45 US (ouch). If only tamiya ones fitted

Omen1975

i don't have any problem with the king pins falling out, it's only on a collision that breaks the hubs that they ping out never to be found!

the easy solution is not to hit things!

[clunk]

i've been running mine for nearly 12 months,all outdoors,and have only broken the rear pin holder (a30).alloy knuckes and stuff ? have not tried ordering any,as i've not broken any yet !!! but have found these in the states at under $30 !! www.rckenon.com