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#1
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Hi guys.. another set up request...
I am currently running 4 degree toe in block and 4 degree anti-squat but am really struggling getting drive out of the corners or any decent acceleration grip. Have got quite good side bite tho! Am currently running the Espeed hangers with the camber link on the inside of the rear hubs making them as short as possible, I am running an x6 squared chassis but the rest of the car is original x6, so all the wishbones and shock towers are the original ones. I have been told that with the Rear toe in block being flat to the chassis gives the 4 degree toe in... is this correct??? My car, as per the set up sheets and tips, should have amazing forward traction and low side traction - but frustratingly it is the oposite? Any ideas? Muchos gracious, Jon! I should also point out that I have been mainly driving on astro turf so far this year with this current set up but I would have thought the theory would be simular for astro or grass!!! |
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#2
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are you the one that totally changed your chassis battery config???
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Custom MG-Racing Associated DMS |
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#3
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Were you running at normal weight on sunday, or did you add a lot more weight than normal to reach 4wd weight limit?
Adding lots of weight low down, can make a car feel exactly as you describe. |
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#4
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Quote:
As for set-up, I know I come from dirt and not grass/astro but I do have two comments. First, that inside 'A' hole in the rear hub is going to allow the rear to slide around quite a bit. I think most of the team guys over there are running in the outside 'C' hole, which is going to help the car drive much more "square" coming out of corners. Second thing, if you're still looking for forward traction one of the biggest things you can do is move the rear arms and hubs forward. This makes a big difference w/ the X - 6, and I'd highly recommend trying the adjustment out to get a good feeling for it. |
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#5
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Quote:
One thing which we are noticing, even on high grip tracks is that the car needs to be at least 1650g to produce the amount of grip needed to cope with Lipo/brushless power. Typically the UK team are running between 1650 and 1740g. It may also be worth you trying to get the weight balance somewhere near 65/35. Without seeing your whole setup Jon, it is difficult to diagnose the problem. |
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#6
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I agree with everything above, obviously there is the weight issue and where it is within your car (assuming it's still saddles). Using the A hole will mean lots of camber change in bump (squatting) and less in roll, i.e. lots of camber change on acceleration. The C hole will be the opposite so should give more drive I think, that said with everything it's always about finding a balance. Personally I run the C hole nearly everywhere (high grip on B) and I run hubs short wheelbase and the wishbones medium.
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Nortech is ACE! |
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#7
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diff not tight enough??
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MBModels - Schumacher Racing - Vapextech.co.uk - MRT - Savox - SMD |
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#8
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Cheers guys, gives me a few things to try.
Also regarding set ups... what is gurney that people talk about when describing their rear wing??? Thanks, Jon |
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#9
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Gurney is the near vertical bit at the rear of the wing. More or less is pretty obvious, it helps with the flight of the car.
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#11
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Suppose this would be a good place to talk about raising the gearbox height, and whether anyone (i imagine so) has really tested this on UK tracks?
I'm about to start dicking about with this, as i'd like more drive, but less side bite out of my car, and i think the gearbox height changes could be a good way to get what i'm after what do others think? |
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#12
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I know Ellis has played about a lot with this, i'm sure he will comment later, i think he raises it when he wants more drive, like when it rains etc or at the euros on the dust.
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#13
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Quote:
Thanks, Jon |
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