Kyosho RB5 SP

[AndyM]

Hey guys,

Sorry if there has already been a thread about this, but does anyone have any idea on a price for these kits?

I've heard they will be quite expensive, but just wanting some clarification .

Also, do you guys know when they will be in UK shops?

Cheers,

[Fabs]

Unfortunately due to the pound being worth less than a penny at the moment everything coming from abroad is going up in price, and R/C stuff is no exception so yes they'll be more expensive than the original RB5, but on the other hand the SP will come with a lot of options.

Last I heard they were supposed to be out around may/june.

[RSharpy]

The RRP for the RB5 is £239, not sure what the SP will be. Have heard the same as Fabs for release.

[hopsing]

Here is a small write up with part #'s to convert your RB5 to use the new rear wheels that will be coming out on the RB5 SP. I'm currently working on finding out about the axle situation as to what is different and why you cant get just the axle shafts by themselves (you can get just the shafts for all the other swingshafts sets)

The new SP wheel is identical in offset to the current wheel. The overall diameter has been reduced by about .5mm and the outside to outside width is the same, BUT the wheel lips have been changed to allow the tire mounting surface to be about 1mm wider which allows the tire to fit more properly.

I have some new information regarding the RB5 SP rear wheel conversion.
These are the parts you will need:
LA245 (This is the axle and dog-bone set already assembled. You will only use the axle from this.)
LAW30 (This is the blue clamping hub that pretty much most of us already run.)
1. You will first want to build your CVD set using the New LA245 axle and LA232-01 dog-bone.
2. Next you will insert the axle through the rear hub using no spacers between the back of the axle and hub bearing.
3. After the axle is pushed all the way in, you will now want to use a thin axle spacer on the outside of the hub.
4. Next you will insert the solid axle pin (comes in LAW30), followed by the blue clamping wheel hub.
Lastly, insert the small 1.5 screws into the hub to clamp it down.
There should be a little play when moving the axle side to side.
The new RB5 SP Kit will come with all this in the kit. There will also be a new part number for the axle, and I will have that available when we get the kits in.

This is what Jared, Mark, Cody, and Myself all used at the Cactus and everything worked great.
Thanks,
Joe Pillars

Basically what I have found with this set up is this...............If you are running the RB5 with the stock "narrow" arms, do not change the axles out. If you are running the mid-arm/worlds conversion, you have the option to either run the new axles or not. The new axles are approx 2mm shorter than the currently used axle (assuming you arent using the "proline" axle). Basically, this set up with the axles will narrow the car back up to the width of the original RB5 while utilizing the longer arms of the worlds kit. You can run the new wheels without changing the axles as well. Nothing will change running the new wheels on your car as is.

[Fabs]

Well,

If the rim has exactly the same offset as the old ones then I don't see why you couldn't use the old ones with the new Axle, and vice versa.

[RogerM]

Another tuning option for the rear end of the K' cars, this is sure to confuse the masses!

It's all good though, no 2wd car out there has so many tuning options to get it exactly as YOU want it, not even the Losi.

I think I can safely say that the only place in the UK that you might want to be using the wide arm / narrow axle combination is the Proline Dirt Arena. I'll let you all know when I get chance to run at this venue.

For the UK surfaces you will find it very hard to beat the stock (or Proline) axle, LA243 / worlds / RB5SP rear end as it gives a fantastic balance to the car on our high side bite surfaces.