Durgla diffs

[TRF_Tastic]

Right then chaps, had a couple of issues with the rear diffs on the durga, destroyed two so far, not good, so have been advised to change the outdrives out for 501 items, just about to complete this. So my question is will this cure the tendancy for the diff to explode at a moments notice, if not there will a nice hardly used durga for sale!!

[DCM]

yes it will...... why?

Right, with the Dirk Digler diff's, you have to glue the diff plate onto a plastic holder. Whilst this is fine up to about a 19t/10.5, any more power, and the heat that builds up in the diff is to great, so the glue cracks. When this happens, the diff starts to slip, between the holder and the plate. Extra heat happens, and oooops, there goes your diff.

With the 501X outdrives, the plates stay on far better, no need for glue etc.....

[jimmy]

you're not going to have a problem with 501X diff in the back - and if you're melting a front Durga diff you're an ANIMAL!!! I don't think it's really worth changing the front, only the rear as that gets the most stress.

[steveproracing]

when i run a diffi in my 501 i use a durga diff and have never blown one
as for the rear diff there is a lot of bull talked about what to do
the answer is simple
use 501 outdrives
use 10 ceramic balls
2 steel balls 1 at 12 o clock and the other at 6 o clock ( this cleans the track and helps keep the diff smooth)
use only a minute amount of tamiya ball diff grease in the diff or the ceramic balls will slip causing heat build up
use tamiya anti wear grease in thrust race.
then cover sides if diff with a sticker or die cut covers
i ran half an outdoor season without a rebuild like this and only rebuilt then because i am anal about prep
i have never blown a tamiya diff building this way
ps this technique came from a trf works driver direct to me with no chinese wispers!!!

trust me it works

[Crazy L]

I'm gonna have to try this, I've just blown a 2nd pulley in as many outings, rubbish, and they were tight.

I can't find the 501 diff halves anywhere, they're like rocking horse nuggets.

[Crazy L]

Please help

I rebuilt my rear diff a few months ago using 501x halves, waiting for ceramic balls, but, built it, ran it, checked it, adjusted it etc.

Ran it for the 1st time on sunday, so thought i'd check it over, glad I did, balls are AGAIN starting to migrate through the pulley, 3rd one .

WTF am I doing wrong, I've never had this problem, could it be the 5.5r bolted in, or am i just crap at adjusting this diff?

[T4miy4 Guy]

Originally Posted by steveproracing

when i run a diffi in my 501 i use a durga diff and have never blown one
as for the rear diff there is a lot of bull talked about what to do
the answer is simple
use 501 outdrives
use 10 ceramic balls
2 steel balls 1 at 12 o clock and the other at 6 o clock ( this cleans the track and helps keep the diff smooth)
use only a minute amount of tamiya ball diff grease in the diff or the ceramic balls will slip causing heat build up
use tamiya anti wear grease in thrust race.
then cover sides if diff with a sticker or die cut covers
i ran half an outdoor season without a rebuild like this and only rebuilt then because i am anal about prep
i have never blown a tamiya diff building this way
ps this technique came from a trf works driver direct to me with no chinese wispers!!!

trust me it works

I Use this method and it works fine!

Andy

[Fat Corgi]

Okay,
So I've got the some new ceramic balls, diff rings and metal diff halves. What do people use to attach the rings to the diff halves? I am assuming you down glue or threadlock them? Secondly, the thrust bearing that lives inside this assembly, how do people orientate that bearing. The flat edge closest to the centre of the diff, or away from it?
The are as many opinions on how much you need to tighten the nut on the diffs, is there a consensus?
Lastly, do people put the balls in the 3 extra holes in the diff pulleys, or just around the outer ring (12 holes).
Thanks