Losi Xcelorin and LRP 5300 Lipo in Cat SX

[JackWood]

Just some pics of my recent build.

This is the first car I have built in 22 years, so if I made a FUBAR anywhere, please let me know.



Wires to the ESC are nice and short from the motor. This orientation means the LEDs on ESC are on the outside and easy to see.



The vertical outlet of the Corally works better with the LRP LiPo. It keeps the wires well away from the belts.



But you have to be very careful how you place the front as the bumps on the LiPo only have approx 1.5mm per side clearance of the 2 front pulleys.

You can also see the velcro I cut to shape on the LiPo and strap. I also used the locators to make sure the LiPo didn't slide around and hit the pulleys.

[MattADH]

When I tried the same 5300 pack in a CAT SX, I am sure that the inside hump on the casing rubbed against the pulley for the front belt. This was with the LiPo slammed against the servo as per the manual. And the servo position/spacing cannot be changed.

Has anyone had any thoughts/ideas on this?

[V-Rossi]

You didn't sand and glue the carbon fibre edges
I suggest doing this, as carbon fibre can split after a crash.

[JackWood]

Matt, if you push the LiPo against the back of the servo the hump DOES rub on the pulley. That is why I centred the bump between the pulleys, marked up the position, and glued the battery locators to the bottom, and then doubled it up by using the velcor to make sure it won't move. It works fine.

In retrospect, it would have been a lot easier to get Trakpower LiPos and then the position wouldn't matter. But I didn't know that when I bought the kit and battery

Rossi, I'm not sure if I can really be bothered doing that. Sounds like a lot of work. If it splits I'll just buy a new bit, I think.

[Chris Doughty]

could you space the servo a few mm out to give room for the LiPo?

[Southwell]

Originally Posted by DoughtyUK.net

could you space the servo a few mm out to give room for the LiPo?

I play with Ryans because he wasn't getting proper lock on the steering, they seem very sensitive to small adjustments and it took a while to get it right, it may work though.

[Southwell]

You can buy short Losi sensor wires

Can the cap or zip tie hit the fan in the event of a crash? If they can then you will break the fan blades, other than that it looks good.

Just get a screw driver and dab some glue on it, then run it around the chassis and towers.

[Chris Doughty]

Originally Posted by V-Rossi

You didn't sand and glue the carbon fibre edges
I suggest doing this, as carbon fibre can split after a crash.

I never bother doing any of that prep work to any carbon fibre that I run, it always holds up just fine.

its all internal stuff in the CAT SX anyway with the undertray on.

[JackWood]

There is plenty of room for the Lipo. Too much room. If you push it up against the back of the servo the bump hits the pulley. You need a packer between the servo and Lip really. The position of the Servo is not a problem.

Southwell, I'll take a look at the cap. The battery and motor leads were MASSIVE, but for some reason the Cap leads are very short. That is why the cap is hanging over the edge.

[Cassp0nk]

Servo size affect battery placement too. I've got a savox servo which is very compact and it means my battery has a lot more width that the instruction suggest.

[sime46]

I run the lrp 5300. I cut the hump off so it clears the pulley. I cleaned up the casing and filled the hole with sealant and smoothed it off. Presto, put the battery up to the back of the servo and can still run the servo without spacers. Perfect(in my opinion).

[Cassp0nk]

Originally Posted by JackWood

Just some pics of my recent build.

This is the first car I have built in 22 years, so if I made a FUBAR anywhere, please let me know.



Wires to the ESC are nice and short from the motor. This orientation means the LEDs on ESC are on the outside and easy to see.



The vertical outlet of the Corally works better with the LRP LiPo. It keeps the wires well away from the belts.



But you have to be very careful how you place the front as the bumps on the LiPo only have approx 1.5mm per side clearance of the 2 front pulleys.

You can also see the velcro I cut to shape on the LiPo and strap. I also used the locators to make sure the LiPo didn't slide around and hit the pulleys.

Forgot to say thanks for the pics. Where are the LED status lights on the xcelorin as I don't want to cut cables and realise I've arranged it so I can't see them! The manual cunningly doesn't have a diagram showing where they are! In fact it doesn't even say where the button to change modes is but I'm guessing its the microswitch on the main power switch?

Hoping to do my wiring tomorrow if I get a moment.

[JackWood]

I know!! I spent ages looking for the LEDs before I had it wired up. It was pure fluke that I had the ESC the right way around to see them! The manual is good, but missing such a basic thing like that is s bit stupid.

In the top photo the LEDs are on the bottom side of the ESC, facing the wall of the bottom tray. Really this is the only way you can orientate the ESC and be able to see the LEDs. And yes, the push button is the one on the switch. You will need to be able to see the LEDs for programming.

After my first "incident" with the Xcelorin, with this second unit I assembled the whole thing and ran it for 20+ minutes in the carpark at work to make sure everything was running fine, and only then started tidying up the wires. Did the battery harness first, then tested it again. And finally shortened the motor wires and tested again. All good this time apart from the lack of reverse with the 010128 software (010125 works fine).

The only difference you might want to make to mine would be to come 90deg out of the Corally connectors out of your Trakpower LiPo. On the LRP the terminal sockets are recessed, so not possible to come out 90deg, hence the out-top way I soldered to the Corally plugs.

[Northy]

Sorry guys I went to bed early last night, but I think it has all been covered.

• You are not allowed to modify the hard case.
• NOTHING is legal yet.
• Heatshrink is not classed as factory sealed - it can be removed without tools (unless you include Lee as a tool - then a tool can remove it)
• The factory seal has to mean the case is damaged if it is removed.
• This rule is to stop tools fiddling with the lipo internals.

G

[Cassp0nk]

Originally Posted by JackWood

I know!! I spent ages looking for the LEDs before I had it wired up. It was pure fluke that I had the ESC the right way around to see them! The manual is good, but missing such a basic thing like that is s bit stupid.

In the top photo the LEDs are on the bottom side of the ESC, facing the wall of the bottom tray. Really this is the only way you can orientate the ESC and be able to see the LEDs. And yes, the push button is the one on the switch. You will need to be able to see the LEDs for programming.

After my first "incident" with the Xcelorin, with this second unit I assembled the whole thing and ran it for 20+ minutes in the carpark at work to make sure everything was running fine, and only then started tidying up the wires. Did the battery harness first, then tested it again. And finally shortened the motor wires and tested again. All good this time apart from the lack of reverse with the 010128 software (010125 works fine).

The only difference you might want to make to mine would be to come 90deg out of the Corally connectors out of your Trakpower LiPo. On the LRP the terminal sockets are recessed, so not possible to come out 90deg, hence the out-top way I soldered to the Corally plugs.

Yeah I wasn't sure about 90 deg or not. Your way does a nice job of keeping one of the wires out the belt. Maybe one done each way is best. Think I'll just wire it up with long leads to start with then modify as you did.

Shame about your reverse problem, did you manage to sent the full reset to the ESC after upgrading as the data format for its settings appears to have changed so they need blanking and doing from scratch. If you didn't, it would also explain why it works ok when you downgrade as your settings would then be in the right format.

[JackWood]

What? Say again?

How do you send a "full reset" to the ESC after upgrading?

Funny thing is, today I was massing around in my kids nursery playground and even with the 125 software, reverse wasn't working. Something strange is going on, and I'm not sure what.

Maybe I need to try another transmitter.

[Cassp0nk]

Originally Posted by JackWood

What? Say again?

How do you send a "full reset" to the ESC after upgrading?

Funny thing is, today I was massing around in my kids nursery playground and even with the 125 software, reverse wasn't working. Something strange is going on, and I'm not sure what.

Maybe I need to try another transmitter.

On the commands drop down menu, click 'reset to factory defaults' once you've upgraded.