My RB6 drives like crap

[OneSolidVato]

The car will without fail lose all rear traction and do a complete 180 around every corner, i think it happens when i let off the throttle or start applying brake.

It has great forward bite and jumps well , but it cannot negotiate corners at all.

Ive asked more experienced guys for help but nothing has changed, the front just tucks in and the rear will come around.


- high grip technical indoor carpet track
- dboots minipins f and r
- sideways battery
- gear diff 3, 5 and 10k
- tried 3 and 4 gearbox
- tried every setup i can think of

[Welshy40]

Just an idea so worth trying.

Are the tyres a controlled tyre as if not get rid of the d boots and get schumie yellow mini pin rear and staggers front and use medium inserts on rear. Once fitted if you get the same issue look at the geometry of the shocks plus could guess the rear is far too hard and if you have a roll bar on the rear take it off.

[discostu]

Originally Posted by OneSolidVato

The car will without fail lose all rear traction and do a complete 180 around every corner, i think it happens when i let off the throttle or start applying brake.

It has great forward bite and jumps well , but it cannot negotiate corners at all.

Ive asked more experienced guys for help but nothing has changed, the front just tucks in and the rear will come around.


- high grip technical indoor carpet track
- dboots minipins f and r
- sideways battery
- gear diff 3, 5 and 10k
- tried 3 and 4 gearbox
- tried every setup i can think of

If it's that bad go back to basics kit setup start again

[Origineelreclamebord]

In my experience, if you can't get a car right it may be something that you don't check or don't have to check on a daily basis - some things are related to setup, some to the condition of the car.

It might be worth checking that:

- The suspension moves freely (with dampers removed).
- The droop levels and shock lengths are equal between left and right.
- The dampers have low levels of friction (to overcome before the shock shaft starts moving).
- The sliding surfaces of the CVD joint and outdrives are smooth and (near) flat.
- All bearings run smoothly.
- Your chassis is not tweaked or bent.
- There are no other parts bent, cracked or otherwise damaged.

[Rich D]

All great advice, just worth adding that you might find a ball diff easier to drive with too.

[HOTSHOT III]

Agree with everything others have said on here but especially the fact that minipins on the front will give you way too much steering, RB6 steering is telepathic anyway so you really need to reduce the effectiveness of the front end.

Try Schumacher yellow cut staggers or just yellow staggers if it still has too much.

Also make sure everything moves freely, take off the hubs/top links and make sure the suspension arms fall under their own weight and then reattach the hubs and make sure they do the same, if not you have a bent hinge pin somewhere which will need changing.

When did you last service your shocks and change the seals? This is an area which some people neglect but by building them properly and making sure the shafts aren't bent you can transform the car even if you're not the world's best at setting up the car.

Also with Kyosho shocks, while you have them apart you can polish the rods to a mirror finish for a silky smooth shock action. Just clamp the threaded end in a vice (using a piece of aluminium so you don't damage the threads!) and using a long thin piece of rag and some metal polish you can make them look like chrome.

[discostu]

the advice that is given is pretty good here something are completely pointless and a waist of time and effort

check every thing is free and built correctly
check nothing is binding
make sure you are on the correct tire for the surface
make sure your esc is setup correctly ie end points drag brake etc

dont bother with polishing shock shafts

this will not cause you any issues or fix your handling issues