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Old 08-10-2014
tahustvedt tahustvedt is offline
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Default Procat belt slip.

Is there a trick to eliminate belt slip without excessively tightening it? I have the stock pulleys front and rear and a new 4,5mm MXL belt. I loosened the front diff so that when I hold the front wheels and try to swing the car up the diff gives before the belt slips, but the belt still slips often while driving. It also sits off to one side of the front pulley and won't go to the center. I bought a used MMS (I think) front diff which will at least help with the centering, but I suspect it's slipping in the rear as there's less wrap around there. I guess I'll find out when I get the new front diff. Maybe the rear diff is worn, though it didn't look like it was when I had it apart some time ago. I want to avoid a slipper clutch.

If I can't get it to work and want to keep driving it I might mill new diffs for GT2 3mmm belts out of Delrin.
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Old 08-10-2014
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Peakey Peakey is offline
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What electrics are you using? If it's brushless then I think your going to have to find a slipper. If not take a look at Luke's thread here: http://oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=48668&page=23

It's a really handy I keep going over bits now and then.

But if you do need a slipper robin c on here has had a couple of bosscat ones made I'm sure if you ask him he'll be able to get you one done.
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Old 08-10-2014
Danf1275 Danf1275 is offline
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After I fitted an MMS front diff in mine, any slip issues were found to be belts from layshaft to back diff. Belt to front is now relatively loose.

As far as I can remember, all belts are still original, with mild 9t Ezrun brushless.
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Old 08-10-2014
tahustvedt tahustvedt is offline
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It's brushless and hot. :P 6000 kv. Maybe I can limit the torque on the ESC somehow.

I'll check again that it's not the belts between the layshaft to back diff.
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Old 08-10-2014
tahustvedt tahustvedt is offline
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Hmm. It might be the rear belts after all. I replaced them a while back and they might be one tooth too large (vague memory). The adjustment cups are at the tightest position. Guess I should order some new belts from SDP-SI before I condemn the center drive.
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Old 08-10-2014
Danf1275 Danf1275 is offline
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If you remove top 2 screws on each side of the rear gearbox, you can 'peel' plastic housing back to assess belt tension in situ.
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Old 08-10-2014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tahustvedt View Post
Hmm. It might be the rear belts after all. I replaced them a while back and they might be one tooth too large (vague memory). The adjustment cups are at the tightest position. Guess I should order some new belts from SDP-SI before I condemn the center drive.
If you pm Nigel Npdp72 on here he sells standard size belts that look great, I've not used mine yet but are a direct replacement for the Schumacher ones.
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Old 08-10-2014
tahustvedt tahustvedt is offline
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I inserted some rubber between the pinion and spur and lifted the car by twisting the rear wheels, and then jerked. It crackled. I'm using homemade aluminum eccentric cups and didn't make them eccentric enough so max tension isn't enough. I checked my order with SDP-SI and I did buy the right ones. 6mm wide, 72 teeth and MXL.

Guess I should have made some new ones, but I found some plastic ones on Ebay for £3 so I just bought them instead. :P
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