Supastox - Racing mods

[whittaker52]

Hi All, sorry if this has been covered before, I had a scan through, but couldn't find anything.

I'm planning on building a Supastox over the winter, and i'm just looking at getting all the parts together that will get me started (indoor circuit) racing. Initially i'm planning on setting the car up as a 21.5 2S blinky race car - purely out of convenience with parts I already have - speed passion stock esc etc. Motor-wise, i'm kinda limited as there don't seem to be many stock 21.5t motors out there, but so far, the lead contender is the hobbywing xerun quicrun 21.5t 3650 stock motor. I had been looking at the speed passion V3 21.5t motor, but with adjustable timing, and no real way to lock at zero timing, it seems to be out?

I've read the guide that's on the GT12 facebook groups and that's clarified a few points, but I wasn't sure about a few things.

I'm planning on going for bearings all round - are there any major benefits over using ceramic bearings over just not metal shielded bearings, other than long-term wear? The bearing kit is about 3 times the cost for ceramics, but if it'll lead to better running, then I'd say it's worth it.

Ball diff seems to be a must as well, so that's certainly on my shopping list, as is the wishbone socket ball upgrade, but what about the wishbone upgrade that's available? is that worth building in too?

Are there any other things I should consider doing too?

Thanks in advance for any advice.
Best Regards,
Oliver

[SlowOne]

The ceramic kit is not worth the money IMHO. The rear bearings last ages as they are well shielded. The front bearings will most likely get wrecked in a hit before they wear out - I've done a couple.

Yes, ball diff is a must. Other little tricks include making sure that there are positive downstops for the springs at each end - use nylon washers so that the suspension rises about 1.5mm at each end and no more. Too much 'rise' and the car will be a bit snappy into and out of turns.

A spring kit is a good idea too. Check the Schumacher site for Chris Ashton's set up and follow along form there. Most of us ended up on 50 fronts at 44mm dis and 37 or 40 rears at 46mm. 37s if the grip is low (club night for example) and 40 when the grip comes up.

If the car is a bit wayward at the back then change the rear tyres first, don't fiddle with the front too much as you will lose the balance when the grip comes up. If the car understeers too much go to the harder rears first...etc.

I ended up on yellow rear springs in the outer holes and green front springs with about 1mm of droop. The standard camber plate works best.

Other than that, I haven't needed any spares for a whole season's racing at National level. Tyre wear is very low - I rotate three sets of tyres during the races and have worn the equivalent of two sets off them.

Best shell is the Ascari, best tyres are Contact, best additive is SX3. No I'm not sponsored by Schumacher, I've just tried it all and made an A Final with that lot and a good day at the office! HTH

[glenn french]

Please can you explane what you mean or what parts i need to Do ( positive downstops for the springs at each end - use nylon washers so that the suspension rises about 1.5mm at each end and no more. Too much 'rise' and the car will be a bit snappy into and out of turns.)

[mark christopher]

Join the Facebook page gt12 circuit uk, all the info is there

The long wheel base kit is worth getting, and you get the mi5 mod in it too, makes the car more stable.
Add a bearing in the site as the guide in the files section on the page.
Slow one is referring to droop, also in the guide is a droop screw mod, which we have found works better if used on the inner holes of the spring plate. Ask on the page for the David gale mod, but I'm sure its been updated in the guide.
Recent clubman's most used spider blue

[whittaker52]

Thanks for the help and advice. I've downloaded the guide and i've started getting everything together to get building. With the droop adjustments, is it just a case of trial and error or does less droop seem to work better and vice versa? I've had a thought about maybe using a selection of different length screws to control the droop so that perhaps set up could potentially be a bit easier than measuring each time, maybe even giving a better idea of what's working best? although it will just mean keeping a selection of different screws at hand.

I'll try and post up some shots when it's all done

Thanks again for the help and advice.

[mark christopher]

Too much faf tbh. No more than 1mm droop